Archive through July 26, 2007

[digger]

Wes V,
Here's a pic of the hydro release on the side of the tractor.

It sounds like you need to invest in a can or 3 of PB Blaster or Kroil and spray things down all over including the hydro lever linkage underneath.
While your at it, you just as well pull the fenders and check out the release buttons, as I'm sure they are rusted tight.

 

[etifft]

Roland,

For further knowledge, if it wasn't the VR, what else could it have been?

Ed

 

[hydroharry]

Marlin - you sold the 127. Back on the old Forum we'd have to pay a penance for that kinda stuff. You also mentioned a welder. I hope it ain't a torch type. They are NOT allowed around Cubs. It just won't be a Cub anymore if you use a torch. Hey, sorry I won't be close to Colo. I'll be in Chicago on business and then make a whirlwind stop at Omaha on Friday about 6pm - head up to Sheldon, IA and Lake Okoboji, then on to Vermillion SD, and fly out on Sat at 5PM. To bad you ain't in between there some place or I'd stop and check out your stable. I know you're gonna Love that 1650.

Wes V - the hydro lever should move with or without the engine running BUT the brake pedal must be in the off position. YOu can start the engine with the problems you have but the brake pedal must be depressed to allow starting. If you want to move the tractor without the engine running the hydro lever must point to the N position. Depressing the brake pedal should move the lever to point at the N. Release the brake pedal and pull the little lever release bar on the side of the frame cover. Your right leg calf muscle should just about rub this little lever. Be careful when pulling this lever. Don't put more than about 3 or 4 pds of pressure pulling it. It is NOT one of the numbered items in the pic Digger posted. But you can see the decal on the side of the frame cover which states RELEASE in big letters.

Edward T - if it wasn't the VR you'd be better off settin the tractor out next to the street and let me know so I could come by and pick it up.

Hydro Harry
(Love them Hydros, or leave'm by the street for me)

 

[rbedell]

Edward T:

If you have the original and/or correct parts, and if you performed the test as indicated.....NOTHING!!

 

[etifft]

Harry - Roland,

So if it wasn't the VR, this tractor would be garbage? Why, what would be wrong?

Ed

 

[wcompton]

Paint question, this has been gone through again and again, but not with some new information. Recently at work we were talking about the fact that paint has been reformulated to meet air quality standards again for 2007, and that a PPG paint code isn't necessarily the same color anymore because the PPG number refers to a formula and not the color. Is the PPG number still correct for IH red or has the number changed?


Harry-
"Lake Okoboji, then on to Vermillion SD" if you're doing I90 to I29 you'll run right by me. When you drive by exit 406 in South Dakota start looking to the left. You'll see some big RED trucks that will catch your attention, I'll be there.

 

[tdean]

Hello- this forum has been a great resource for me over the last 3 years as I tried to keep this old cub alive and mowing, so thanks. I am no mechanic like the experts here.
Right after I rebuilt the front clutch and mowed for an hour, the hydro seems to have blown. I think its time for this to be someone else's problem. but I have never pinned down just what model this really is. It has a 10HP Kohler (161) in it, but it looks like someone switched it out as there is a crude notch cut in the frame for it. There are no disc brakes. Its pretty ugly, but I would appreciate any help you can offer. Yes, the serial #'s are long gone. I thought it was a 126 or 7, or even a 147. Maybe a 125?
Thanks Toby (more pics available)

 

[rbedell]

Edward T:

NOPE....the tractor is NOT garbage.

Why are you so persistent that the V/R is not not problem. After all, YOU said that it didn't have the 14.7VDC on the "B" terminal...????

 

[bmcmeen]

Wow, it's magic - I go in to fix the wide screen and it's already done...

 

[digger]

Bryan,
Don't ya just love it when a plan comes together!

BTW, I'm wondering if Binder Books listed above would have an extra Service manual layin around for Edward T.

 

[etifft]

Roland,

Sorry. Obviously I'm getting annoying with too many questions.

I believe it is the VR. I was just wondering what else it may have been for future, learning, reference.

Sorry to all that I am annoying. I will purchase a service manual. Was just asking questions.

Ed

 

[kmcconaughey]

Edward, hang in there, we'll help you through this. It's hard to do this without actually being there, for some of us it's hard enough doing it when we are there.

Harry was joking with his comment, he was always looking for free Cub Cadets, kind of his way of saying that the Cub Cadet IS worth keeping. Sort of a reverse psychology kind of thing.

Toby, looks like a 105 to me. BTW a 10hp Kohler would be a K261, the K161 would be a 7hp. I noticed that the footrests are mounted wrong, the tab on the lower part of the fenders should go under the footrests not above them. Also the mower deck is missing the end plate and runner for the left side, you'll want to get that replaced. I might have those parts kicking around my place, I'll try to remember to have a look this weekend. Can you posts a photo of the "crude notch"? There should be a guard between the engine and steering column to keep hands away from the drive shaft, was made out of perforated metal. I know I don't have any spares of those. But I have a photo of one I'll find and post.

 

[digger]

Now Ed,
Did I or anyone else say the A word? Nooooo

It is a good idea to have a manual of some sort to get ya started though.
That way you can rulle out the easy stuff and when it gets nasty, we all can come here and ask for more than the manuals give us.

Believe me, the manual DOES NOT tell ya everything. And these guys know more, only because they have done it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Toby, here's the photo of that drive shaft guard. I also rounded up a photo of the proper footrest to fender mounting and a photo of a RUSTY 42" parts deck that I have that I might be able to salvage the end plate and runner off of for you.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Toby, forgot to comment on the hydro issue.... What makes you think it's "blown" did the tractor suddenly stop moving even though the engine was running? If so you most likely just sheared a spirol pin in the coupler between the drive shaft and hydro input shaft. Look here:

OK, I know it's not going to be easy to look there as that is buried inside the tunnel of the tractor, but you should be able to remove the seat and fenders and see the back of the Hydro pump and with the tractor running check if the output shaft of the hydro is rotating, if so then move the hydro control lever to the forward or reverse position and see if it is still rotating. BE CAREFUL when doing this in case the tractor moves!!! Here's what you should see if you remove the fenders and seat support. The Hydro output shaft is circled.

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Be sure and send those FINE lookin blades too!

 

[mgonitzke]

Kraig-

A 10 h.p. is a K-241, not a K-261

 

[bcorn]

Good morning at the tractor show. 368 total tractors, garden tractors, equipment. Right down from me is a forum member and he has his tractors there also. Steve Henderson. Very nice man and really enjoyed talking with him. He was very nice and invited me to his house someday to look at some more toys. Oh yeah!!!!!!!

Pops

 

[digger]

Pops,
Yepper, your hooked!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Matt, yeah, I didn't have enough coffee before I posted that. Just proves yet again that I'm not anywhere near perfect.

Funny part is that I looked at the front cover of the Kohler manual to double check and I read K241 as K261, go figure.