Archive through July 19, 2014

[jpatchett]

David G.

I have removed SG pulleys with a 4” three jaw puller. I DON”T mount the puller and just start turning the screw until the pulley deforms. I wire brush the output shaft and check for damage at the end of the shaft that could hold up the pulley from sliding off. Spray liberally with penetrating fluid. I mount the puller and turn the screw to take up any slack and then turn the screw 1/8-1/4 turn. I then tap the end of the hex head on the puller screw with a small hammer, the impact motion should be in line with the shaft. After several taps the puller should start to loosen/ become slack. Now tighten the screw again and repeat taping. Repeating this process several times should eventually get the pulley to slide off, be patient.

Appling heat to the pulley from a pipe sweating torch will also help, try not to heat the shaft too much. The idea is to use heat to increase the ID of the pulley, but not the OD of the shaft. Sometime this works enough and a puller is not needed.

jim

 

[ckuba]

Nic, Harry and Dennis, The shop I mentioned said that they would look for a good used carburator first. If they couldn't find one, they said that they would have to order a new one. I haven't authorized them to order a new one. They said that they would call first. My question is other than the parts that come in the carburator kit, what else could go wrong with the carburator body? The reason I took it to the shop in the first place is that it started to loose power after about 1/2 hour of mowing. I read the FAQ and thought it may be a sticking valve. I started using Marvel Mystery Oil. In addition, I removed the fuel tank, rinsed it out (with gas) and took the carburator apart, removed the removable parts, used an air compressor. Everything seemed clean. It would idle well enough but at full throttle the engine sounded like it was cutting out no matter how well the high speed idle screw was adjusted (about 2 and 3/4 turns out). The spark didn't seem very strong so I put the coil from my 1200 on. The spark didn't improve. The spark plug is new and gapped at .20. The only other thing I noticed when I took the float bowl off was the slot for a screwdriver at the end of the main jet was messed up from me slipping with the screwdriver. I keep thinking it's electrical because the spark was weak and inconsistent. I don't know how to set the points.

 

[fcurrier]

Christian:
.20 plug gap raised a red flag. Try going here:
http://www.ccmanuals.info/service.html
It doesn't want to load for me, maybe you'll have better luck.

 

[jhillegass]

Harry and Doug,

I've been torqueing the bolts to Kohler specs and in the designated order, same on retightening. After the second gasket gave out, I had the head worked on to flatten it.

The studs that the heat shield and spacers are on were pretty much still tight each time. I have a nut on the stud that I tighten that is below the spacer. But the two bolts in between (position 1 and 8--toward the front) are the ones that loosen the most.

Guess I will get new bolts and see how that works.

Jerry

 

[nbextermueller]

Christian, I'm going to bet on the condenser is failing once it gets hot. Did you switch that over from your other cub too?

And gap that plug to like .040-.045

I'm not a fan of MMO. Try using Lucas Oil Upper cylinder lubricant. It works better.

 

[jsosbe]

I recently aquired a 100 that came in pieces. I am having issues figuring out if it even has the correct choke linkage on the carb. Also I dont have a good reference to where/how the choke & throttle cables are supposed to run. Any tips or pictures would be greatly appreciated!! The tractor is a late '63 model. Thanks, Jason

 

[ckuba]

Frank, The owners manual calls for a .25 gap. I didn't check your link yet.

Nic I did change the condensor when I changed the coil. The trouble is it ran worse after I cleaned the carburator, rinsed out the fuel tank, replaced the spark plug (the spark plug wire was replaced about 1 year ago). I even checked to make sure that the gas cap wasn't plugged. What I'm trying to say is after I went through the steps described above, it ran worse so I didn't even run it for 1/2 hour.

All Thanks for all of the advice, I appreciate all of your help.

 

[klorenz]

Picked up this little beauty of a 100 last evening.

What a mess!

But it did have this gem still attached to it. Which, by the way, still works when turned by hand. Thank goodness it was parked with the lift cylinder retracted.

It's an early 100, so I'm hoping to score a LP head also.

 

[jbaker]

that right rear look likes a racing slick

 

[acalhoun]

Can anyone tell me or show me how the carb linkages go on a cub cadet 60 carb

 

[jmlloar]

Update on my belt jumping. I'm ready to scrap the thing. New belt and old belt acted the same. old belt just out of the blue jumped and then after it did it wouldn't stay on any longer. Bought a new belt, didn't help, tweeked the deck lift arms to level out the deck, worked great till today, belt jumped and now it wont stay on again. I'm out of ideas. Tractor runs great and when belt stays on it cuts great. I'm about ready to give up and buy something newer. Tractor is a 107 with a 48" deck. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[digger]

John L.
Lay down on your belly facing the machine.
Look down the line from the mule drive pulleys to the deck and make sure they both are running straight back to the center pulley on the deck.
I'm betting you have one or both out of line.

Also check to make sure that the deck pulley is running flat and true with no wobble.

 

[digger]

Aaron C.

I'll bet Art or Kraig can show them to ya, but it will be in the lawn tractor section, even though it's a riding lawn mower and not a tractor.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/32806/32806.html?1405194083

 

[jmlloar]

"digger"
Looked down the belts and deck pulley looked like it was nose diving, We notched and welded lift arms to bring the deck back to level, it seemed to help a lot until now. How much wobble is acceptable to allow for clearance in the bearing?

 

[digger]

John L.
There shouldn't be any wobble.

You say you leveled the deck, but shouldn't mess up the belt to the point of coming off.

My money is still on the mule drive pulley or pulleys.

Steve B. is our resident deck guy, maybe he'll chime in on the subject.

 

[rneubauer]

K321 quietline question: have a 1450, which is my old faithful mowing machine. Lately when it starts up it belches black smoke and dies under WOT operation. However if I let it warm up buy idling for 5-7minutes it runs just fine. In fact my son is out mowing with it right now. Checked plus, it was fine. Oil is still very clean looking even though it is the same oil from last fall. (going to change it tomorrow) My bet is the points...........anybody else have a theory?

 

[dfrisk]

ROB - You should always idle an engine for 4-5 minutes to warm it up before going wide open on the throttle. Same thing when shutting them down, idle for 5-10 minutes to cool down before shutting them off.

If you've been mowing since last fall on your current oil change, I'd give your CC a "treat" and change it soon. I change conventional oil in a K-series every 30 operating hours, synthetic every 40-50 hrs. Everything I own except my chain saw & leaf blower has an hour meter or speedometer.

Hard to say where the black smoke when going full throttle cold is coming from. Black smoke means rich mixture which is needed for cold running till warmed up. I'd let it idle for five minutes, then throttle up and mow.

 

[rneubauer]

Dennis,

I understand your points, however the rich black smoke has never happened before. Last 3 or so mowings. Guess I will check the points, check the carb settings and see what happens. Engine is slated to come out soon, have a K341 going in its place.

 

[jmlloar]

seems good again. A little to tight on the belt tension.

 

[dfrisk]

ROB - I doubt any ignition parts are causing the black smoke. That's normally caused by a carb adjusted too rich.

Is there anything you've done to the engine about the time you noticed the black smoke? Change in fuel brand or anything?

Does the engine start from a week's rest with no choke?

Any chance a tree or bush branch could have gotten in around the main fuel adjusting screw on top of the carb and accidently changed the mixture?

Does it seem like the engine burns more gas mowing the lawn once than it did three weeks ago?