How hard is it to run a pow with a manual lift set up or would i be better off with hydrolic. I am looking into the hydrolic option thanks for the help just need to find everything to put a setup together. Is it hard to add to hydrolic option to a tractor with the manual set-up? Sorry for all the Q's just new to the cub tractors.
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Archive through July 16, 2006
- Thread starter rbedell
- Start date
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Lucas, there was an optional add on Hydraulic lift for the 102, it is the same unit in the photos I posted. Quite a few people use a plow with the manual lift though it's a good to add an optional spring assist.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Manual lift with a spring assist is not bad at all. I plowed with my 125 with manual lift and spring assist at the last plow day. The plow comes out of the ground pretty easy. I really don't think you need to have hydraulic lift for plowing. Snowblowers, though, are another story...
Lucas
The question is not..how hard is it to add the hydraulic option, the real question is, where to find one...and do you want to pay the asking price.
Helper spring is a whole lot cheaper. If you find a hydraulic unit, make sure you check it out before paying...sometimes there are problems inside. Likes to eat a certain spring.
No, I am not parting with mine!
The question is not..how hard is it to add the hydraulic option, the real question is, where to find one...and do you want to pay the asking price.
Helper spring is a whole lot cheaper. If you find a hydraulic unit, make sure you check it out before paying...sometimes there are problems inside. Likes to eat a certain spring.
No, I am not parting with mine!
Jeff B,
You mean one of these!
You mean one of these!
rheddleston
Member
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2006
- Messages
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- rob heddleston
I'm new to this forum, this is even my first post. The pic in the tall grass reminded me of one my wife took of me at 19 mowing our tall grass.
Now I'm 38, and that darn hood is still yellow!
(Message edited by rheddleston on July 17, 2006)
(Message edited by rheddleston on July 17, 2006)
Rob H.
WELCOME to the forum and that's one heck of a great picture too.
It's great to see and hear things like that, Thanks for sharing
WELCOME to the forum and that's one heck of a great picture too.
It's great to see and hear things like that, Thanks for sharing
[qoute]Frank Morski
Lucas
The question is not..how hard is it to add the hydraulic option, the real question is, where to find one...and do you want to pay the asking price.
Helper spring is a whole lot cheaper. If you find a hydraulic unit, make sure you check it out before paying...sometimes there are problems inside. Likes to eat a certain spring.
No, I am not parting with mine![/qoute]
What spring breaks? and what and how do you do to check it? Does it mean it has to be rebuilt if it is broke?
Lucas
The question is not..how hard is it to add the hydraulic option, the real question is, where to find one...and do you want to pay the asking price.
Helper spring is a whole lot cheaper. If you find a hydraulic unit, make sure you check it out before paying...sometimes there are problems inside. Likes to eat a certain spring.
No, I am not parting with mine![/qoute]
What spring breaks? and what and how do you do to check it? Does it mean it has to be rebuilt if it is broke?
Lucas, here's an exploded view of the hydraulic lift. Perhaps Frank will point out which part he's referring too. I have heard that there are some internal parts that are no longer available (NLA).
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on July 18, 2006)
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on July 18, 2006)
KRAIG, Lucas - It seems to Me that the spring is item # 41, the spring to return the valve to the center potition...but the real problem is the broken pieces find their way thru the pump gears and destroy them....
<font size="-1">Greetings again...and again thanks for all the help. Outside of what I previously had said I'd done, I hadn't had the opportunity to do much else --- quite suddenly on Sunday afternoon my headache turned into a fever and I found myself with 0 motivation to do anything. Note -- I do not blame the Cub for the fever...just the headache.
Finally feeling better today with only low-grade fever so hopefully I'll get an opportunity to do a little more checking into this.
From Anthony:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Shanen, sounds like you got an open field winding.before you go spend the money, take off the s/g end cap(term. side). the field winding wire may have broke loose from the term. may be able to fix it yourself<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
That sounds interesting and a logical possibility as I noticed some looseness in the post on the s/g F terminal. If I understand correctly, you're suggesting that I can open up the s/g and access that area from the inside where the external posts are; further that something may have come disconnected. If I'm off base let me know please.
</font>
Finally feeling better today with only low-grade fever so hopefully I'll get an opportunity to do a little more checking into this.
From Anthony:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Shanen, sounds like you got an open field winding.before you go spend the money, take off the s/g end cap(term. side). the field winding wire may have broke loose from the term. may be able to fix it yourself<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
That sounds interesting and a logical possibility as I noticed some looseness in the post on the s/g F terminal. If I understand correctly, you're suggesting that I can open up the s/g and access that area from the inside where the external posts are; further that something may have come disconnected. If I'm off base let me know please.
</font>
My 102 cub getting it ready to strat plowing as soon as I get everything fixed.
http://www.freewebs.com/project_no_v8/102%20Cub%20Cadet%2Dmedium.jpg
http://www.freewebs.com/project_no_v8/102%20Cub%20Cadet%2Dmedium.jpg
I was wondering what kind a plow this is brintly or what else.
http://www.freewebs.com/project_no_v8/Malboard%20plow.jpg
http://www.freewebs.com/project_no_v8/Malboard%20plow.jpg
Well, I got my 129 Hydro running againg - Thanks Ron!
In my excitement to have a working mower again, I tried to mow the lawn (ok maybe more of an overgrown field) and my mower belt snapped.
I'm not sure how to tell which size mower I have (38, 42 or 48 ...)
.
From where to where do you measure?
The only number I could find was and ID # 441U1111
but I can't find that referenced anywhere
Thanks for the insight.
Nick
In my excitement to have a working mower again, I tried to mow the lawn (ok maybe more of an overgrown field) and my mower belt snapped.
I'm not sure how to tell which size mower I have (38, 42 or 48 ...)
.
From where to where do you measure?
The only number I could find was and ID # 441U1111
but I can't find that referenced anywhere
Thanks for the insight.
Nick
I have never been one to leave things alone, I allways like to tinker with them and see if I can make it better some how.
With that in mind here is what I came up with for a good all aroung narrow frame tractor.
Yeah I know its not all one tractor, in fact I belive it has parts from 3 different cubs.
It should be a good plow tractor, maybe have to try it out this comming weekend.
With that in mind here is what I came up with for a good all aroung narrow frame tractor.
Yeah I know its not all one tractor, in fact I belive it has parts from 3 different cubs.
It should be a good plow tractor, maybe have to try it out this comming weekend.
Anthony (and others who offered advice that I will store for future use!),
Diagnosis of an open field winding was correct - this was easily seen once opening the end of the s/g and taking a mere second to peer in. I just have to figure out how to fix it now. I try to remove the outside nut that "seems to hold" the post to the s/g and it turns n turns n turns....no the post is not turning. It would just so happen (to someone like me) that the dang nut is cross threaded on there somehow! That's unless someone else here knows that the engineers did something really crazy and designed these things with the intent to NOT be removed/repaired.
Later,
Shanen
Diagnosis of an open field winding was correct - this was easily seen once opening the end of the s/g and taking a mere second to peer in. I just have to figure out how to fix it now. I try to remove the outside nut that "seems to hold" the post to the s/g and it turns n turns n turns....no the post is not turning. It would just so happen (to someone like me) that the dang nut is cross threaded on there somehow! That's unless someone else here knows that the engineers did something really crazy and designed these things with the intent to NOT be removed/repaired.
Later,
Shanen
So here's a good one.
My CC 169 has taken up the habit of just shutting off randomly and then not starting. Now when I say not starting I mean is doesn't even crank. The lights turn on but no power to the SG.
I tested the safty switches and they both seem to be OK. That being said as soon as I tested them the thing started up again.
Heat doesn't seem to be the issue since I only made it about 15' this time.
If it let it sit to 45 minutes it seems to start again.
any ideas?
My CC 169 has taken up the habit of just shutting off randomly and then not starting. Now when I say not starting I mean is doesn't even crank. The lights turn on but no power to the SG.
I tested the safty switches and they both seem to be OK. That being said as soon as I tested them the thing started up again.
Heat doesn't seem to be the issue since I only made it about 15' this time.
If it let it sit to 45 minutes it seems to start again.
any ideas?
Got a couple of pics to share of the 100 W/PeCo vac I picked up Sunday...I've been chasing this tractor for a year and finally got it..The P.O. was a 98 Year Young lady who "only drove it on Sundays" Even got the original bill of sale in the paperwork...Can't wait to refurbish this little jewel...
