Archive through July 09, 2012

[mgwin]

Man, all that thinking made my brain hurt!

I'm goin to bed. That's David on the right.

 

[gcorzine]

looks like not going to need to many tractors

grass is completely dead

 

[wheinsohn]

Jeremiah, you are trying to jog my memory now. I can't remember if it started before or after my inlet broke off my muffler and I had it repaired. I have a new muffler and I may have to install it and see if that helps. It may be a while before I can try it out as it is hard to mow this brown grass I have.

 

[digger]

Anyone that feels the need to exercise your machines, feel free to head north!
We got another 3/4" Sunday, and I've already mowed more this year than any other! Grrrrrrrrr

 

[lhinds]

David on the gas line elbow i had flow but not quiet enough to keep up with the engine. When running wot it was running out of gas. I had sprayed carb cleaner through it. It was a piece of gas line hose lodged in the elbow.I also had problems with a gas line filter that had been put on backwards. It didn;t provide enough flow.??????

 

[kfreeman]

David C.,

Can you get a sense of how it is breathing during stalling?

Take a piece of paper and hold it at the exhaust pipe outlet so that it can flap in the exhaust stream during stalling. Normally, the paper should flap and relax at every exhaust stroke. If the paper gets sucked towards the engine between exhaust strokes, then the exhaust valve may be sticking open.

If the paper doesn't flutter with the engine rpm, there may be a restriction in the exhaust system.

You should be able to do this between normal operation and stalling and see how they compare.

At least you have a situation that is repeatable and not completely random.

 

[dross]

David C, If it isn't the carb or the fuel line and you don't have crap floating around in your gas tank. Mabey it isn't fuel. You've already tried to use a jumper on the coil, if your grounds are tight and clean. Hook up a 12 volt light dirrectly to the battery pos. and neg., you can see from the seat and use the tractor. If the Battery is causing your grief the light should go out or flutter when the engine starts to act up.

 

[dclinansmith]

Dave R. It's funny you suggest the battery might be the problem. I dismissed that as a possibility a month ago. I had a few spare minutes this morning so I eliminated the muffler as a potential problem. It was on the shop floor when the engine stalled. If I get back in time to try something else today I made up my mind the battery is next. If that doesn't do it I am considering fresh air in the tires. Thanks to everyone for their ideas.

 

[kfreeman]

David C.

I think you have eliminated fuel (maybe) as the problem. And you have done about everything with the electrical system. I think that I would still get an in-line spark plug tester, just to see if you have actual spark all the way until the engine stops revolving. Autozone's website says that they have one for $7. Some are adjustable so that you can see that the spark has sufficient energy to jump a specific gap. Jumping the air gap outside the engine is easier than in the cylinder in the compression stroke.

 

[rchristensen]

David C.

I haven't followed your entire thread so I don't know all the things you have tried, but if you haven't replaced the head gasket I would do that.

My neighbors 1450 would run great then miss and you could sometimes choke it and it would run good again. Sometimes it would run 15 min, some times it would run for over an hour and then just stop. It would normally start right up after it quit and then run good again for awhile. It tuned out to be a head gasket that would open up and then close a small opening. We had tried points, coil, and carb and nothing helped until we fould the bad gasket, by that time it had ruined the head.

 

[mgwin]

Charlie,

The heck with mowing, we all just want to move up there where it is cooler. Wouldn't mind getting in on some of those super deals you've been finding too. Looks like the cub cadets grow better where you are!

 

[aschumacher]

Marty, did you see Charlies 'cool cat' in the sandbox section?

 

[wshytle]

I finally got the 1250 together and everything is working like new. The hydraulics are going to be welcome for garden duties. I even was able to find neutral maybe the second try and it held well. After I finished driving it around a bit I looked underneath and the darn thing is leaking. This is the reason I started working on this tractor in the beginning about 6 months ago. It was leaking at the pump so I went back with a neoprene gasket. I've done the 1650 and the 129 both with the neoprene and they are fine. You can bet I'll use some gasket sealer now. I was ready to install the undercarriage and deck and have my favorite mower back in operation. The good news is I can split the tractor and have it back together in just a few hours now. The one thing I hate about this unit is the brake return spring. It's the long one that goes down the left side and hooks over the chassis mount then back to hydro linkage towards the front. I've yet to figure a way to install it easily; it's just a bear either way. If someone has an easy way to work with this spring I'd sure like to know. I have the other style wf brake spring figured out and they are no problem at all.

After discovering the leak and my cry was over I found out that a storm we had Friday night fried my AT&T service including my computer. I just got it back on about 2:00 this pm. It was the longest my stuff has been down that I can remember. Then, after taking my Saturday night bath I found the tub wants to stop up.

All of these things had to happen during a record setting heat wave. I'm just wondering what will be next.

I haven't even looked at the 1250 since Friday afternoon. I just have to reboot my brain and tackle it when the weather is a little better.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Wayne S. On your long brake return spring. If you have some mechanic's wire handy use it. Hook the front part of the spring to the front piece of the tractor. Cut off a long enough piece to first of all make a loop for the rear section of the spring to hook to. Now thread the rest between the transmission and the frame going to the back of the tractor. Use a pliers, small pipe, or something to wrap the wire around a few times so that will become your grip piece for when you pull on the wire. You wil also need a short piece of wood or steel, (you'll figure out what you will need) to use to press on the spring and push the end into place once you've pulled it back far enough.

I wish that I had taken pictures when I did the Keepsake 1950's trunion repair a couple of years ago.

 

[bproctor]

Awhile back I was so proud of the lack of effort it took to remove/replace the pto & bearing on my 126. Well, after using it for a few weeks I decided it needed a throwout bearing and while it was down I would replace the seal on the pto side. The spiral pins all cam out without much fight and the clutch/springs assemble was polite. The pto clutch basket was down right rude! heat and penetrant for a week did nothing. I tried many tricks but no luck.

I had to resort to welding two studs to the basket collar then use a puller and still had to go back and forth with the impact wrench @ 350 ft/lbs of torque until it finally busted loose. I noticed one set of marks for the set screws so I have to assume this is the first time the basket has been off in 43 years. I guess I'd be a little stubborn too!

Now to get it back together.

 

[hsimon]

Charlie- Quit hoarding the rain and cool temps!! Send some to my corner of SWMN!!

 

[bproctor]

A few photos. I just think it's neat that this seal lasted 43 years. I guess thats why I like them so much. The single set screw marks are from the basket. The doubles are from the PTO bearing I replaced, the original and the replacement.

Didn't notice the scratches until now. Not sure what those are from.

 

[mgwin]

Allen,

I sure did, poor fellow. At least Charlie gave it a toboggan. I'm sure Charlie has some nice IH or Cub Cadet clothes he could put on it. I bet that photo was taken last week!

 

[wshytle]

Marlin-

I have actually thought about your idea. This is what I came up with but it takes nerve to use. So far it hasn't slipped but I stay clear just in case. It's a pretty tuff brake spring and I'd hate to have it let loose while I'm holding the other end. This is made from some bendable rod.

The second pic is a little fuzzy but you can see what's there.

I also have a chance that the leak is coming from another spot. I got under and looked a little but I'm also assuming it's the pump gasket. I changed all of the seals so I might get lucky. I was so disgusted I just covered the tractor and walked away last Friday. If I have to split it again it will be the fourth time. The first two times were when the non-ported pump wouldn't work.

 

[bpientka]

Not that I have used one on a tractor but what about a snowmobile/motorcycle exhaust spring tool?
They run between $8-20 depending the type. Some have straight shafts and others are bent. Either way just an idea.