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Archive through July 09, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Eric first to get back to the barn there is a lever on the side of the tunel cover to release the hydro pressure.

Although it is probaly broken so you need to remove the tunnel cover and push the 2 little buttons down on the valves to relieve the pressure

Now about the pin it is NOT a roll pin, make sure you get the proper pin for the shaft..

good luck its not to hard...
 
Jeff
Thanks for the response. I actually have a whole new(used from ebay) drive shaft to go in with the pin along with the drive hub. As it seems to have broke on the previous owner and he welded the shaft to the drive hub. Now the weld has broke. So Im thinking I will fix with the proper parts this time. Thanks again
 
Ricky F
Put a little dish washing soap on the end of the shifter or in the hole in the shift knob and it will make it easier to get the shift knob on all the way.
 
Eric and Jeff - the tunnel cover on a 127 is not removalable. I hope Eric realized that. The tunnel cover wasn't removable until the start of the Wide Frame series (and a 127 is from the last of the narrow frame series). If it's not to far to the barn I think you'll still be ok just pushing it (or pulling) but stopping ever few feet so the hydro pressure releases and you can push/pull it again. If your release lever does happen to work you'll probably have to pull the lever again every few feet since the release buttons tend to pop back up anyway.

Charles MW Krill - if you painted the drive shaft I suggest using really soapy water to see if you can slide the fan into position. If you didn't paint it, well you'll probably have to use some light oil to get the fan to slide into place. And don't forget the spring clip once you do have it in place. You'll need a really strong pair of spring clip pliers to get it into place. Which ever install method you use run the engine for awhile after the fans is installed and make sure it doesn't walk down the drive shaft. And then after you have it installed for a few weeks check it again.
And as for the JD stuff, I don't even know how you got your message posted. My spell checker won't allow that full green name to be used. As far as the school opportunity - jump on it and have fun.

Hydro Harry
 
Thanks Hydro,,,, every time I think I have the right answer regarding narrow frames I find I have more to learn...
bash.gif
 
Hydro Harry (and everyone else who offered advice)- Thanks for the advice. (oh, p.s., I had to hit "add to dictionary" for it to recognize it. All jokes aside, You'd better believe I aint forgetting my yeller and white roots when I'm swimmin' in green.)
 
Question-
The hood latch catches on my 169 are completely gone (never had them since I've had it, long since broke off). Has anyone ever converted the hood latching to the style off a QL? It seems like a much more simple and effective design.

Charles MW Krill-
I don't think you'll have to worry much, I worked at JD's Waterloo engineering center for a few years and worked over at Dubuque works for a couple years as well. It didn't do anything for me but make me a bigger IH fan. One of the things I REALLY enjoyed, since I was in engineering, I had access to all of the company's drawings, including Kohler drawings and cross-reference P/N's, as well as old drawings for older models. Come to find out that JD didn't do much design of their old L&G line; good example was their original 3-point hitch for the 140, the drawings all are labeled "Brinly-Hardy" at the top.
 
Wyatt: That should be a very simple retrofit, needing just the hood itself from a QL (not even the front nose piece) and the part behind the gas tank that it latches into.
happy.gif
 
I have heard of a couple of ways to install threaded studs. One says bottom the stud and tighten another says barely bottom. Both say use red loctite. Is there a best way? Reference is to Kohler cylinder head studs.
 
Doug-
Use a thread chase, blow out blind holes, bottom the studs by hand, finger tight only.
 

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