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Archive through July 02, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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mgwin

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
3,509
Location
Reidsville, NC
displayname
Marty A. Gwin
Charlie,

Using that seat, I would have to mow standing up!
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The last time I saw a pic of someone on Jason's cub, it wasn't Jason! Maybe that is how he got it all mowed without his rear being sore.
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Marty-

I'm Hoping a local Upholstery Shop can hook me up w/ Seat Cover very Similar to your 128. I love the Look without the ribbing and just the tuck seams in rear seat corner's. And yeah yeah yeah I Know, Don't forget to tell them EXtrA Padding,

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OK, onto my Next Mission,,,

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NICE,,,,

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Jason, you can't mount the gear shifter on a hydro
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Kenny,

Governor issues usually proceed a grenaded KT. Don't run it long that way....
 
Kenny: I remember fighting with the governor on my Briggs & Stratton 16 HP twin. (The same motor as found in a 582.) From what I remember, the trick is to turn the governor shaft in the same direction that your are turning the governor arm, so that when throttle is wide open, the governor is also "wide open." Realize that the governor wants to open the throttle when the engine is running (it took me a while to get my head around this fact).

Also, quoting the Kohler Service Manual for the KT17 Series II,

Begin Quote
Sensitivity adjustment - Governor sensitivity can be adjusted by repositioning the governor spring in the holes on the governor arm. If set too sensitive, speed surging will occur with change of load. If a big drop in speed occurs when the normal load is applied, the governor should be set for greater sensitivity.

Normally, the governor spring is placed in the fifth hole from the pivot of the governor arm and in the sixth hole from the pivot on the throttle control lever. To make governor control more sensitive, increase governor spring tension by moving the spring end closer to the center of the control arm. To allow broader governor control but less sensitivity, decrease spring tension by moving the spring toward the end of the arm.

End Quote}

Finally, you want to be sure your governor spring is in good condition. I replace it if I have any question.

Of course, the previous assumes that your carburetor is functioning properly, that the fuel flow is unimpeded and that the fuel pump is operating correctly, the valves are adjusted and aren't sticking, etc. etc.
 
Jeff B.


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Jason W. sounds lie your springs on the trunion are getting weak. Try installing one or two washers. One at each end. This will help on the spring tension.
 
Marlin H.

Yeah I was in such a hurry to get grass cut I knew the 1250 hydro pump Trunion was gonna need repaired, it had the notches on both ends where the washers had dug in and wore slots in the bracket, I just went with it for time being to see if the pump was gonna even Function or Not.

Tractor did exact same thing when I purchased it back in April, FAST Downhill, SLOW Uphill. I did Repair the Trunion on Original 149 Pump and added two washers just as you mentioned to help with spring Retention loss over the last 42 plus years. That did the Trick and tractor was operating perfectly!

Here are a few pics of the 149 hydro pump Trunion repair I did back in May about 2 Weeks after Purchase, with an extre washer on each end!

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Now that I KNOW the 1250 pump is at least functioning properly I will do the Same probably This Afternoon as Rain is Setting in pretty good here in Dayton Oh. That's a good Thing, I get plenty of Garage Time since can't do any work outside.

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David S.

Absolutely Beautiful!

Very VERY Nice Job.

That is one Good Looking Tractor!

Congrats.

Hopefully many Parade Pics to Follow.

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Well Got a Steady Rain coming Down, and even more Headed this way!

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Guess it's a Good time For 1250 Pump Trunion Repair.
Fender Pan OFF AGAIN!!!!


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Repair on 149 Pump went Smooth Really No Problems at all, Now that I'm Through the learning curve I'm hoping for a nice functional repair job on this one also. Will update when all done just in case anyone might be curious.


I feel like I'm really blowing up this forum thread w/ so many post and pics, if this is considered in any way annoying or overkill someone please chime in and I'll backer down a few notches!

Thanks,


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Jason post all the pics and stories you want, that's what keeps this place going and the owner loves to see the action on the forum
 
David,

Super nice job!!
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The only improvement I see is, you need to post more pics!
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Jason,

I thoroughly enjoy your posts.
Keep them coming, maybe it will encourage some of the others to post more often.
 

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Jason W...I've enjoyed your posts also and find them to be quite interesting, especially your thought process. Mostly, though, I admire your tenacity and patience in the face of setbacks and your willingness to share it all with us.
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WOW Thanks Guys

Ok with that being said,

Got 1250 Trunion open,,,

Some here have referred to my Trunion repair as the "Short Cut" Method. As I did it IN PLACE without removing hydro or Linkages! Two small welds on each end of bracket and a spray bottle of water to cool welds immediately when break arc so no or very little heat transfers into springs.

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One side Cut,,,,

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Both Sides cut Now!

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149 Springs Lower set, Appears to be in Much Better Condition than 1250 Springs Upper set in photo!
I think I'll go with My 149 Springs & "Extra Washers" for the Repair!!!!

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Will Post Back when Welding is Complete!

Thanks Fellas

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Jason, you're doing great! Several times in the past I've expressed my feeling that those that do and take time from their doing to take and post pics of what they're doing are the lifeblood of this forum. Don T. could do that. Jeremiah's good at it, too.
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Dang Frank it, Jason does remind me of those two,,

Jason & Jeremiah & Don
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I mean that a compliment
 

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OK, well I'm Very Curious as I'm no Metallurgist or Tractor Expert By any Stretch of the Imagination. If anyone here has any, umm well "Critique" as to if this is even a good idea or not or if so how it could or Should be Improved upon I would very much like any comments because I'm only doing what's in my skill set, knowledge, and ability. As I'm very new to the "Yellow & White". Weather mild steel or Hardened steel should be used, round vs square stock, how operation may be affected using either/or, which might last longer? Any comments please chime in, I am open to criticism and would appreciate any guidance because I want to Know how and if I've erred.

Thanks,

Anyway, Got Front end Tacked.
All aligned and good to Go!

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Weld on Back Side.

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Now Weld on Front.

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Both Sides Welded.

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Springs Retainers and washers all spin freely and independently of each other, nothing seems to be in a bind.

Now gonna Throw fender pan on <u><font size="+2">AGAIN</font></u> and Go Drive this 149 up my Hill and see if I can Crawl Down without hitting 30mph before I hit Bottom!

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