Archive through January 31, 2013

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Edward H Lincoln

The PO told me that pump was used on a bigger tractor to run fluid to lift the blade. He said it was a strong pump and would lift his heavy blade at idle. I thought I could find a use for it on some tractor. Thanks for the info.

 

[aaytay]

Jeremiah-

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, you suffering from CRS?

 

[jchamberlin]

Kraig, evidently I am (suffering from CRS, that is). Apparently I confused Art with either Kendal Harvey and/or Gerry Ide.

By-the-way, regarding the scope of the problem, L. William Rehm also posted the following information, citing his source, The following is from the descriptions at the Binder Book site...

"International QA-36A & QA-42A Snow Thrower. 36" and 42" models built from 1971-1980 with S/N 400,000 and below, including models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 & 1650.18 pgs"

The only thing that the manual says about models is that for tractors with serial number 400,000 and below require an adapter package to operate the snow thrower. All I can think of is there is something in that "adapter package" that will solve my problems, but I have had no luck with that parts list." (emphasis added)

I think the current iteration of the Cub Parts Lookup perpetuates the "myth" that the QA-36A and QA-42A are legitimate attachments for the tractors called out above.

I'm sorry, Art, I don't know why I brought your name into it, I'm scratching my head too.

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Guess so..

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - I've mowed for 47 yrs with 38" 3-blade decks. I agree with Steve B, they are great ditch mowers, and with a little work also do a great job on lawns.

There's at least 2, and maybe 3 or 4 versions of the 38 & 42" decks. The first was the cast iron end decks. They're HEAVY. And the center spindle bore was cast into the pie-shaped piece in the frt center with the front roller support. The rear guage wheel brackets were cast as part of the end caps but the outer spindles were separate. They were a pain to try to true up if the spindles got out of alignment.

The second version was all steel with square ends. All three spindles had identical bearing housings bolted to the deck skin. Much easier to align the blades. And they were lighter but still made from heavy gage steel. But there was about an inch of clearance between the blade tip and the end of the deck housing on the left side, hard to trim close. ALL these and the CI end decks used tapered roller bearings on the spindles.

Then the third version was similar to the 2nd but used the water pump style bearings in cast aluminum housings. And the 4th was the same except they went back to the tapered roller bearings in an alum. bearing housing.

I rebuilt my 38" deck back around 1985 to make it similar to the IH 44 & 50 inch decks with a few ideas pulled off of some other co's decks. My deck is a version #2. First was a 2" tall baffle behind the blades made from 1/8" thk steel welded to the deck. Next I cut the left end of the deck off on a radius so the outer end has about 1/8" clearance from the left blade tip. Then I enlarged the discharge chute by cutting a wedge shaped piece out of the lower level of the deck housing, then cutting the upper lever right next to the upper level and bending the verticle piece back and welding it up and welding the wedge piece into the gap on the upper level. I also made a horizontal lip that bolts on the lower back side of the front lip to form a channel for clipppings to escape from the deck. And I formed & welded brackets to the front face of the deck for the spherical guage wheels.

Set the level of the deck so the front tip of the center blade is about 1/16th to 1/8th inch lower than the back tip when the blade is parallel with the center line of the tractor and they mow great.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeremiah - hey thanks for pulling all those details together. (Kraig's arrows were getting a little dull and needed sharpening). I did remember most of that except the solution that apparently worked. As you noted with the dates it did take several months to complete.

Kraig, Jeremiah, et al - I still think my suggested solution which requires a little welding to extend the slotted ears, is really more simple and wouldn't require all the cutting and drilling of all those small flat stock parts. I sure wish I had that thrower from long long ago and far far away (It had to have been adapted the way I'm suggesting).
I'm also thinking that just possibly, the IH Adpater Pkg may have actually existed - and included the 2 replacement brackets with the ears already extended. That's all it would take. Just those 2 new pieces.

(under edit) Charlie - it's 110 degrees difference. You got to count 0 twice (- and +)

 

[digger]

So I go out this morning to load up the wood stove and thought I would see if any of the outside Cubs would start, LOL
The 1450 growled at me, rolled over kinda slow 5 or 8 times and then came to life!
The 149 snow machine, naturally fired right off after 3 revolutions, LOL
The 1650 said no freakin way I'm doing anything at 37 below!
The 2 CCC machines, I didn't even try!
Then I got to thinking, it's 72 degrees in the shop and 37 below in the back shed, no wonder it said no!
Then it occurred to me, that's 109 degrees difference! I'd never really thought about it that way before.

 

[bjamison]

Charlie - those cold temperature starts are impressive. In my day job, I design generators for military applications and we see requirements for cold weather starting down to -50 deg F. It takes a fuel fired coolant circulating heater to get the diesel engines warm enough to start at those temperatures. I also saw another generator application where the diesel powered generator was in a chamber at -40 and it had an oil pan heater on it. Enabled the glow plug heater for about 30ish seconds and it fired right-up.

I'm assuming the Cub Cadets you started were completely cold soaked, i.e. no block heaters, etc.

I've got a couple of other color tractors, one with a Kohler 14 hp Magnum and the other with a 20 hp Onan and they are hard to start if setting for a week in warm weather. No way they start in the +20's much less -37.

But I think Hydro Harry commented to me one time that some folks like the starter/generator because it spins the engine faster than a bendix type starter motor integral to the engine like my Kohler Magnum or Onan engines. This may be the difference in starting or not - after being cold.

One thing I did for my Magnum engine is I put a manual rope start pulley on it for the times when the battery was dead and I wasn't in a good position to charge the battery or swap it out. It has been a life saver - BUT...

When you kick that Magnum engine over with the rope start and a hard pull, it starts! Might take a couple of pulls, but it starts - no matter the weather or how long it's been setting. I'm sure when I crank it with a rope, it's spinning faster than with it's own starter motor.

I say all that to say this - my 109 is an ultra easy starter so far, no matter the weather or how long it has been setting. Makes me think it's a new tractor - one that the Wife/Boss can get on and use everytime when I'm at work at the salt mine.

Quick question - how do you keep the batteries charged on those IHCC's you got setting outside and do you see any difference in cold weather starting with the bendix type starter on your 1450 vs the other S/G type IHCC's you've got.

 

[proessler]

George M., Welcome

!! By your ID plate, you have a 1811 or 1812 model. Only difference, 1812 would have front aux. hydraulics. Kohler engine/ Magnum 18. The starter would be Kohler # KH 52-098-12 replaced # KH 52-098-03. New ones run $$$, rebuilts a lot less. If your up to do rebuild yourself, ...Charlie FAQ # 77 by Matt G.will help ! Parts by above sponsors should be available^^^