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Archive through January 28, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Charlie I will too if that groundhog sees his shadow next week
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Now to topic, One of the post on my starter generator is stripped badly has anyone replaced one or am I going to have to try and rethread it
 
Cub Cadet 682 w/ KT17 won't run!
Last year, I took a "small engine repair" class at the local community college. I needed a project and the Cub Cadet was a gift from a friend. He bought the tractor at an auction and used it for several years until he threw a rod. He had disassembled the engine (He is an mechanical engineer with his PE). The engine was in a large rubber tub. I rebuilt the engine. New parts: pistons, rings, rods, oil pump, bearings, coil, points, condenser, starter switch, battery, battery cable, fuel pump, electrical clutch, Rebuilt parts:carburetor, starter, Machined parts: crankshaft, cylinder bores, Used parts:
wiring harness. Probably not a very good economical decision and I didn't even need another garden tractor, but it was a good project.

It looks good-- the engine is clean enough to eat off. It does everything but start. No spark to the plugs when the engine is cranking. Plug tester fires when you let off on the starter switch. I have had the engine running on the "rebound," i.e. spin it up with starter, let off the starter switch and sometimes it catches and runs!

This is driving me crazy! I want the thing to start! Any ideas?
 
James-

Bad ignition switch.

Jeff-

You can get new terminals from a good repair shop and braze them onto the wire. This will require removal of the field coil assembly.
 
James, WELCOME!
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I'll leave the diagnosis to the engine experts that hang out here, I will however post the wiring diagrams as it sounds like it could be an electrical issue. Please note that there are two versions of the wiring diagram which one to use is dictated by the tractor S/N:

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James, Sounds like the wrong key switch, I've seen that many times. (Or a bad switch), You must have 12VAC to the coil while cranking as well as in the run position, I believe that isn't the case.

Using a meter or test light, check for power to the coil when cranking the engine; no power, get a proper switch.

Using the wiring diagrams below you'll see it may also be it the safety circuitry. For test purposes, run a hot wire jumper to the coil and try it, which will bypass the safety cicuit temporarily. Once you know that works, backtrack through the illustrated switches starting with the ign. switch then safety switches.
 
well im headin down towards Indy in the am to pick up the 782 any tip or sugestion on how to strap her down? Its about a 500 mile round trip but really cant wait to get her home
 
Scott Tanner....It was so windy last night I think the snow that Scott Stanton should have got was blown right on past him and only dropped an inch on me before being blown over to my buddy's house in Bainbridge, Scott Cooper. I've pretty much given up expecting to get enough snow to enjoy.
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What's up with all these Scotts around me !?

Dennis...That was actually the first animation I did, good one to learn on. I sent Charlie another one last night.
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I've done a bunch since then but they are too big to post. I made a cool animated sig but that's too big to use here too. Powder coating...how much surface area do you get out a jar ? I've looked at the kit Eastwood sells a few times, I'd like to get one if I thought I would use it enough to justify the cost. I have a real nice Binks spray gun that just sits boxed up, haven't used it in 8 years.
 
Roger, I usually use two straps on the front hooked into the axle and either one strap at the rear routed through a clevis in the draw bar or with two straps, one on each axle.

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A view out of Art's truck on the way back from RPRU 2009.
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Left to right:

Art's 100, Art's Original "Plow Special", my Original "K4K".

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An add to Kraig's post...that bungee cord holding the hood down is a very wise idea.
 
Brendan, in the case of my SO76 it's absolutely essential as the hood clip is MIA. I just leave the bungee on all the time.
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I like the idea of the clevis in the back, and was thinking of 2 straps on the front. also never thought of a cord aroun the hood
 
Roger, one other thought, a bungee on the seat on those models that have the flip up seat.
 
thats a good thought kraig im not really liking to trailer it in the open with all the salt on the road. was thinking of puting a trash bag over the grill and bungee that around the bag just to keek salt out of the engin compartment
 
Roger take the key out, they can vibrate into oblivion when your on the road.
 
Roger,
I also like to remove the key - I've seen them lost from the vibration. I actually tether the key on my Wheel Horse so I would never forget to remove it.
 
What a bummer day I had so far! we got some of that fluffy struf like Charlie posted , well I started out to my shop to push that little snow (6" ) and my neighbour decides to come over and run MY tractor and plow my drive.lol then comes in a says i`ll come down next storm too.

and what a sin that I have a Cub Cadet out side, I want to keep this on topic and no O work yet, but soon I hope to geterdone. Later Don T
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Dave,
You beat me to it - I delayed sending my post as I was looking for the set up I used to tether my key on my WH (couldn't find it, though).
 
Good suggestion(s) on removing the key, I always remove it as well. Note that there's no key in the SO76.
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Roger Deephouse
If I have to drag a Cub some where in winter I spray the Cub with (fluid film) and other type of coating. I good soapy wash and cleaning will do the trick. I hauled a Cub out of the USA in winter and 2 spray cans was a good coating and realy help on not make the small rust spots worse. A 125 Later Don T
 

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