I was wondering how many use these tractors to push snow? How much weight do you put on the rear and is it with chains or ag tires does anyone think there is any difference between a wide frame and a narrow frame. I have a paved drive way and it has a hill and slopes to it to. Thanks. Joey.
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Archive through December 28, 2018
- Thread starter digger
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
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- Justin Bratton
Marty,
Yes It has bushings on top of the wheel spindles. There is a zerk fitting on each spindle. Why do you ask? Also, it is a 5 digit number, made in September 1961.
Yes It has bushings on top of the wheel spindles. There is a zerk fitting on each spindle. Why do you ask? Also, it is a 5 digit number, made in September 1961.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2018
- Messages
- 468
- displayname
- Justin Bratton
Joey,
I was wondering the same thing. I did research as much as I could about this subject, and decided to stick with my ag tires added chains with ih wheel weights in the rear. I have an incline driveway, however it is a rough broom finish. Since I am new to this, and just recently restored my 147 i haven’t tried my tractor in the snow yet.
I was wondering the same thing. I did research as much as I could about this subject, and decided to stick with my ag tires added chains with ih wheel weights in the rear. I have an incline driveway, however it is a rough broom finish. Since I am new to this, and just recently restored my 147 i haven’t tried my tractor in the snow yet.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Have a 100 with turfs off my 782 on the back. They are loaded with washer fluid, two IH weights per side and chained up. I have a level gravel driveway that it will push about four or five inches of snow with no problem as long as it’s not icy underneath and the snow isn’t too wet. That’s with the front blade angled a bit. Now I’m sure it would work better with more weight, but my a$$ has gotten a bit narrower lately, so it doesn’t work as good as it did a few years ago! Lol
These are tough tractors, you will be surprised what they will tackle with ease!
These are tough tractors, you will be surprised what they will tackle with ease!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Mike P.-
Have either of the carbs been rebuilt? If not, might be time for that. If the needle and seat don't seal, the fuel pump can push gas past it. Also, the the float could have developed a hole and be full of gas.
I have personally not had an issue with mechanical fuel pumps, but I will probably switch to that electric pump Charlie posted for my basket case 1872 project since the Kohler Command I am putting in came with a vacuum-operated fuel pump (now THOSE are junk) and the mechanical one would interfere with the LH side panel.
Have either of the carbs been rebuilt? If not, might be time for that. If the needle and seat don't seal, the fuel pump can push gas past it. Also, the the float could have developed a hole and be full of gas.
I have personally not had an issue with mechanical fuel pumps, but I will probably switch to that electric pump Charlie posted for my basket case 1872 project since the Kohler Command I am putting in came with a vacuum-operated fuel pump (now THOSE are junk) and the mechanical one would interfere with the LH side panel.
Mike -
Fuel in the crankcase is either coming from the mechanical pump or the carb.
I always replace my keeper KT/M pumps with electric ones. It's cheap and easy insurance.
Rebuild the carb or replace it.
Run all the seafoam you want in them.
Fuel in the crankcase is either coming from the mechanical pump or the carb.
I always replace my keeper KT/M pumps with electric ones. It's cheap and easy insurance.
Rebuild the carb or replace it.
Run all the seafoam you want in them.
When you cleared the cylinders out was it clean gas or gas and oil? If the pump leaked it would fill the crankcase, mix with the oil then leak past the rings and fill the cylinders with the mix. If the carb leaked down the manifold it would fill the cylinders with clean gas and then leak into the crankcase.Look down the carb for wetness in the manifold.
elamott
Well-known member
Greg:
When I replaced my roll pin I put in a 2" pin. That way when it brakes I can pull out the tip and be able to see the pin in the shaft to knock it out. Makes life easier.
Earl L
When I replaced my roll pin I put in a 2" pin. That way when it brakes I can pull out the tip and be able to see the pin in the shaft to knock it out. Makes life easier.
Earl L
mfrade
Well-known member
Greg, I did the same as Earl and for the same reason(s). Plus I added a loop of safety wire to help hold it in.
mgwin
Well-known member
Justin,
These "bushings/collars" were put on the earlier originals and are somewhat rare.
I have a four digit original with these collars.
All the other O's I have are the regular spindle type.
These "bushings/collars" were put on the earlier originals and are somewhat rare.
I have a four digit original with these collars.
All the other O's I have are the regular spindle type.
