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Archive through January 27, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Norm, I believe by the time the 82 series came around the cast weights were NLA and you would have to get the black plastic concrete filled weights. Certainly by the time the 1810 came out, which was after MTD bought Cub Cadet, the only weights you'd get would be the black plastic version, unless your dealer had some NOS cast weights setting around.
 
If you look at the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup and do a sample of one model from each series, you'll find that for the 149 the cast weights are listed, for the 1450 both the cast weights AND the plastic concrete weights are listed. For the 682 only the plastic weights are listed. Not definitive but somewhat informative.

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Kraig,

That makes sense and agrees with the brochures I have.

Thanks
 
On the subject of cast iron weights, what are the poundages IH made?
 
Jeff and Norm,
Norm, #26 each
Jeff, I think someone was recasting them out in Iowa a few years ago and left the IH out for law reasons. I also want to say, but could be wrong, that some other tractor lines used them and kept out the IH also for the same reason.
 
Norm, here are the black weights
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the cast weight in the background are Yel & Grn issue..
 
Got some good seat time with my 125/qa42 yesterday - we got about 6" of really heavy wet stuff. I've put graphite paint on the chute and I'm running a Browning 3.5" cast iron pulley and 1/2" belt, and man does this combo work! I was flinging the slop probably 20 feet in the air and it was landing 20 feet away!

Noticed oil was literally pouring out from under the little cover on the left side of the block, though. I made a new gasket for it last night so hopefully that'll solve it. What's that cover for, anyway? Nothing behind it except crankcase...
 
Cutting edges-- I fabbed my own out of steel stock..
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Installed- works pretty good... scrapes clean
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TOM - I suspect there's MANY sets of patterns scattered around at foundries to recast IH weights. I think one pair of my IH weights are reproductions.

The shape is too easy to cast. I talked to one of the foundries I used to deal with about making a pattern and making some probably 10-12 yrs ago. By the time I paid for the pattern, castings, fuel to pick them up myself, drill the four mounting holes in each, maybe grind a bit of parting line flash, I'd have had about $75-$80/pair in them. I could have gone to a cheaper foundry further way but the castings would have possibly floated they would have had so much porosity in them!
clappy.gif
 
ROB H. - re the cover on the left side of the block.... depending on your engine, there could be THREE covers, front one is ignition points, next one back is the cam gear cover and on some engines it's also the dipstick tube/oil fill, and next one back on some engine, typically later vintage engines, diamond shaped, if the fuel pump mount, it's directly under the carb.

Above those three is the breather/valve spring chamber cover, larger rectangular cover maybe 3" tall x 4" wide, with a single 1/4" NC stud/nut holding the cover in position.
 
I've tried searching this, but didn't have any luck.
Where do you get a replacement rubber grip for the deck lift handle on a 100? I found a rubber grip for the PTO lever and even the wire bail for float on CC Specialties. Mine looks cruddy and really stands out against all of the shiny new paint.
 
Rob, that sounds like the breather cover which Denny just described below. There is a diaphragm valve of sorts in there that prevents the crankcase from building up too much pressure. As engines get worn more oily vapor will come from the breather. Also if you or someone had it apart and put it back together wrong it will fill up with oil which will then run out making a big mess.
 
Dennis F - thanks for the explanation - my K301 does have all three covers, the leaky one is the diamond shaped one.
 
Ryan, unfortunately that grip is NLA. You may be able to get similar grips but not the original style. Worse case you could get some heat shrink and put several layers on... Might be a good idea to call Scott Madson at Madson's service he might have some in stock, or at least a serviceable replacement. Some of the other forum sponsors might have a serviceable replacement as well.
 
RYAN, KRAIG - I know it wouldn't be a perfect replacement but maybe a short section of garden or heater hose would be a replacment for the lift handle grip on a 100. Or maybe a bicycle/motorcycle handlebar grip.

Seems like my '65 #70 has small ribs the whole length,on a thin rubber/vinyl sleeve.
 
My 125 wheels are in good shape with the 387840R91 number for a 23x8.5x12 tire.They never had tubes. I do want to ask what I should use to clean the 100 wheel that is rust stained . What will neutralize the chloride before I sand them. TSP , varsol ?

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Don-

I've tried a number of things to get wheels nice and clean for paint, and the only one that works really well is a sandblaster. Electrolysis is near second, but is a lot more work.
 

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