David-I did the same thing and put a ported pump and hydraulic set up off a 1650 on my 1250. Got it all back together and found the input shaft seal leaking. Take a good look and see if there were any signs of the seal leaking before you button it up. Anyone know if I can change that seal by just taking the shaft off instead of removing the pump again?
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Archive through January 12, 2014
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Doug A
Yes you will have to remove the drive shaft connection by taking out the roll pin ; Then two sheet metal screws can be used to get the seal out of the charge pump and off the shaft. Be very careful with the new seal that there is nothing Sharp on the shaft to damage the new seal. BTDT
Yes you will have to remove the drive shaft connection by taking out the roll pin ; Then two sheet metal screws can be used to get the seal out of the charge pump and off the shaft. Be very careful with the new seal that there is nothing Sharp on the shaft to damage the new seal. BTDT
Thanks Don. Should have just replaced it before I put it back together not knowing the exact condition. It doesn't leak much so it will wait til Spring.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I have seen a QA-42B, didn't have a camera to take a pic though. Was on an early 782 at an IH dealer's lot......threw me off!
Denny,
As early as the fender decks are to remove, I'd have pulled it just to save the cussing!!!!
Denny,
As early as the fender decks are to remove, I'd have pulled it just to save the cussing!!!!
Doug
Glad I was some help.I`am working on my 149 with a no charge issue.
Guys I did Check that all the wires are connected where they should be but at wot I see no change in battery voltage . I can`t remember how one is to check the starter gen ??? If my Starter gen is not the issue I guess it has to be the voltage reg . I hate charging issues
Glad I was some help.I`am working on my 149 with a no charge issue.
Guys I did Check that all the wires are connected where they should be but at wot I see no change in battery voltage . I can`t remember how one is to check the starter gen ??? If my Starter gen is not the issue I guess it has to be the voltage reg . I hate charging issues
STEVE B. - No cussing involved that day. It was tight getting the hydro pump/motor in & out but can be done. Fact it wasn't a ported hydro helped. I need to do a cork seal replacment in the 982 someday and the fenders will be coming off on that one. They have to come off just to change the Hy-Tran with the rear PTO & 3-pt.
Pulling the seat, battery & wire harness with the rear mounted voltage reg. is a lot of extra parts just to get the fenders out of the way.
Kinda like when I replaced the vacuum pump in my pickup. The factory manual starts with, "Drain & remove radiator". By the time I would have done that, I had the fan belt off, vacuum pump off and in the vice and pulley installed on the new pump. I also remembered to install the three mounting bolts BEFORE installing the pulley. I did the job in an hour verses the 2-1/2 to 3 hours if I would have followed the manual, and no messy antifreeze on the shop floor. I guess the shop manual wanted you to remove the pulley with the old pump still on the engine and install it on the new pump on the the engine. It was a L-O-T easier & faster to do it in my big vice.
Pulling the seat, battery & wire harness with the rear mounted voltage reg. is a lot of extra parts just to get the fenders out of the way.
Kinda like when I replaced the vacuum pump in my pickup. The factory manual starts with, "Drain & remove radiator". By the time I would have done that, I had the fan belt off, vacuum pump off and in the vice and pulley installed on the new pump. I also remembered to install the three mounting bolts BEFORE installing the pulley. I did the job in an hour verses the 2-1/2 to 3 hours if I would have followed the manual, and no messy antifreeze on the shop floor. I guess the shop manual wanted you to remove the pulley with the old pump still on the engine and install it on the new pump on the the engine. It was a L-O-T easier & faster to do it in my big vice.
To each his own using the rubber. I know I'll never try it again.
I was instructed to get 1/16" thick x 12"x12" ultra-neoprene slick on both sides and 60a duro. I used a new composite gasket for a template. The thickness of a new composite gasket is a bit less than 1/16"...maybe 3/64th or so. I also learned you have to be very careful when installing this rubber because it so easily distorts depending on how the pump slides in or so it seemed. I think the reason for this is the material, or lack of material available around the lower ports of the opening after cutting. You have such a small area there to apply sealant which in turn can also allow just enough movement and it don't take much for a leaking seal. This rubber gasket is nothing more than a flat o-ring with some ports cut and with everything as clean as it should be no sealant should be needed. I realize the rubber will give a lot more than the composite as well but would this be reason for greater thickness???. The pump is heavy so steadying things when installing can be challenging as well. Maybe using a thinner rubber would be something to give thought to if one plans to try it.
If one has the means to get the tractor over their heads somehow then no, you don't need to spilt the tractor necessarily. It would best for all to have the rear end on the bench for the best case scenario. I prefer splitting to have the frame out of the way and better exposure to things.
I hear ya Tom. The GDs definitely have their advantages but then, the hydros have theirs. Once this gasket is installed right it should be good for many years without incident.
I was instructed to get 1/16" thick x 12"x12" ultra-neoprene slick on both sides and 60a duro. I used a new composite gasket for a template. The thickness of a new composite gasket is a bit less than 1/16"...maybe 3/64th or so. I also learned you have to be very careful when installing this rubber because it so easily distorts depending on how the pump slides in or so it seemed. I think the reason for this is the material, or lack of material available around the lower ports of the opening after cutting. You have such a small area there to apply sealant which in turn can also allow just enough movement and it don't take much for a leaking seal. This rubber gasket is nothing more than a flat o-ring with some ports cut and with everything as clean as it should be no sealant should be needed. I realize the rubber will give a lot more than the composite as well but would this be reason for greater thickness???. The pump is heavy so steadying things when installing can be challenging as well. Maybe using a thinner rubber would be something to give thought to if one plans to try it.
If one has the means to get the tractor over their heads somehow then no, you don't need to spilt the tractor necessarily. It would best for all to have the rear end on the bench for the best case scenario. I prefer splitting to have the frame out of the way and better exposure to things.
I hear ya Tom. The GDs definitely have their advantages but then, the hydros have theirs. Once this gasket is installed right it should be good for many years without incident.
Tony H, Kraig M, Dennis F.
The QA-36B/-42B model snowthrowers were built in 1980-81 until IH sold the Cub Cadet line to MTD. Not only are the upper links bent in the middle but they are ~1.25 to 1.5" longer. The upper links are bent to clear the frame side rails where they are squashed down and out to make room for the Kohler & B/S twin cylinders. Likewise the lower lift bracket arm is also longer by the same amount. I believe this was done to move the thrower body fwd enough so the discharge chute would not hit upper part of grill. The other difference was the 5/8" belt sheave on the gear box and its fore/aft location of the input shaft as the PTO pulley is ~1" farther fwd on the 82 series compared to prior wide frame models (1x8/9's and QL's).
The QA-36B/-42B model snowthrowers were built in 1980-81 until IH sold the Cub Cadet line to MTD. Not only are the upper links bent in the middle but they are ~1.25 to 1.5" longer. The upper links are bent to clear the frame side rails where they are squashed down and out to make room for the Kohler & B/S twin cylinders. Likewise the lower lift bracket arm is also longer by the same amount. I believe this was done to move the thrower body fwd enough so the discharge chute would not hit upper part of grill. The other difference was the 5/8" belt sheave on the gear box and its fore/aft location of the input shaft as the PTO pulley is ~1" farther fwd on the 82 series compared to prior wide frame models (1x8/9's and QL's).
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Frank
Thanks ,I have looked and run the test in the FAQ for that other site and replace the starter gen with a know rebuild one and get the same readings.I din`t get the jump grounding out (a) the field like it says.I have tested the wire and ground so I think I will replace the voltage reg and see "IF" that improves my no charge issue.It is kind a funny that I can tare apart a hydro pump and get it working and rebuild a few engines and have no questions . But dang I hate the 12 V power thing because IT can`t be seen . I did get a bunch a work done today. And parked the 104 in the shed and ran my 149 around some. I can`t complain much because with all the cubs I have I know they will need work if used and man I use them. Thanks for stepping up and offering some help for across that dang border !
You all have have a great day . and Denny I can`t help you with that PSD lol. 5.9 Cummings over here lol
Thanks ,I have looked and run the test in the FAQ for that other site and replace the starter gen with a know rebuild one and get the same readings.I din`t get the jump grounding out (a) the field like it says.I have tested the wire and ground so I think I will replace the voltage reg and see "IF" that improves my no charge issue.It is kind a funny that I can tare apart a hydro pump and get it working and rebuild a few engines and have no questions . But dang I hate the 12 V power thing because IT can`t be seen . I did get a bunch a work done today. And parked the 104 in the shed and ran my 149 around some. I can`t complain much because with all the cubs I have I know they will need work if used and man I use them. Thanks for stepping up and offering some help for across that dang border !
You all have have a great day . and Denny I can`t help you with that PSD lol. 5.9 Cummings over here lol
