Archive through January 25, 2005

[bmcmeen]

Dale R. -

Perhaps it's time to bite the bullet, admit you made a mistake in selecting your previous vendor and call one of our sponsors for a smudge free manual

Read Cap'n Kirk's post closely - he never said there was a shear pin ANYWHERE on the unit. It was a SPIROL pin which sheared (hmm, there's that word!) - that was replaced with a clevis pin, which broke after 5 years.

I'd take a stab at it being the same kind of pin I can pickup from the local hardware store's Hillman rack.

 

[tcbusch]

What am I suppose to put in my QA-42 gearbox? It has a set screw in the cover plate. I assume the gearbox is suppose to have grease in it because of the set screw and no breather. So is it 90 weight or grease?
Thanks

 

[bmcmeen]

Does anyone

anymore??

Set screw?? You mean pipe plug? Pipe plug gets oil, no plug gets grease.

 

[tcbusch]

Bryan,
Pipe plug, set screw, tomato(toe-may-toe), tomato(toe-ma-toe). If I stick an Allen wrench in it, its a set screw.

Anyway, without a breather you might blow the oil out the seals.
So, if it is oil, what weight? 90 weight?
Can I use grease so the oil doesn't just leak out of the seals, or will the grease not lube the internals good enough?

(Message edited by tcbusch on January 25, 2005)

 

[bmcmeen]

Terry B. -

Repeat after me - plug = gear oil, no plug = "sealed-unit requiring no lube", AKA grease. Don't second guess the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> engineers, eh?

The plugged cover is cast, the non-plugged cover is stamped, and they take different gaskets as well.

And I guess in your case, you need to BTFM in the first place

 

[digger]

Terry B,
You can do what ya want, but I use 90% grease and 10% 90 weight. I figure when it gets 30 below I want that grease to be a little sloppy so it will crawl around a little, that's just my 3 cents on the deal.

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie -

Aha!!! YOU'RE the one that's owned all the right-angle gearboxes before I did...

 

[digger]

Bryan,
Yepeeeeeeeeeeeeee, that would be me!

 

[tcbusch]

My cover is cast so I guess that means 90 weight it is.

However, It doesn't have a plug............ It has a set screw though!

 

[lbuttke]

This is not directed at anyone dierictly, its just an attempt to learn more about who, what, where, & why.

How? I either don't have one or don't happen to have it handy. So should I just waite until I can afford a manual, or get to my manual when I have it handy.
Oh, and just where did you go to ask these questions befor you got your manual, or befor you was told where to get a copy of said manual, and how long befor you could afford to purchase said manual.
Is this not a place to come to and discuss IH Cub Cadet tractors, and to share our knowlage of these tractors and thier attachments with others.
Yeah, some of the questions asked here have been answered befor and some may seem real stupid, but hey, how else are we going to learn if we don't ask the questions we need an answer to.
The only real stupid question is the one that is not asked.
Now I will step off the soap box and get myself back to work befor the boss finds me here on the computer.

 

[pvan]

Hello IH Cub Cadet fans, I am new at this. I just bought a 1450 serial # 604841 at a John Deere dealer action in the fall. With some help and work the tractor runs great. My question is when I depress the petal and turn the key the hydrostatic lever moves into reverse. Any suggestions?

 

[bmcmeen]

Lessee, when I came to the Voyager version of this forum some years ago, I asked where to get manuals. I ordered manuals from Binder and Madson's and my local dealer. Then I read them.

Can't afford them? Not even a charity is immune from prosecution for handing out copies of copyrighted works. Especially since said manuals are still in print. So we're not going to do that.

Left them at home? When I do that, I always say "sucks to be me" and wait till I get home. The world's not gonna stop spinning because I can't find out what size pulley drives a QA42A before I get home.

 

[bmcmeen]

Terry B. -

Familiar with pipe threads? They're tapered? Thus they SEAL? Not gonna happen with a straight sided set screw. But I'm betting you've got the right plug (plug, 1/8-27 automotive hex-soc-hd pipe, PN 444 687) in there even though it LOOKS like a set screw to you.

Unless of course the PO did some, um, mods...

 

[elamott]

Scott:
You mentioned a handy dandy electric chute rotator. What a great idea. Can you post a picture.
Next year I think that I am going to modify my chute. Probable tilt the lower section forward to take it away from the grill also take out some of the curve and extend the extension
Earl

 

[dphelps]

Lonny, you may want to check Bryan's profile for this Favorite Quote to get where he's coming from: "Reading the documentation fully is a prerequisite to getting help for your particular situation. I know it's harsh but you will have to get so far on your own before you can get reasonable help from a list full of busy people. A mailing list is not a tool to speed up your day by being spoon fed." -- Simon White

And you might as well surf Simon's site too. Sometimes, for lack of a better phrase, there are "implied homework assignments".

Dave

 

[dreid]

Bryan McM.:

Well, I fortunately just discovered this site, and didn't know smudge free manuals existed anymore. The original vender I choose was the "local" Case IH dealer, and the ones who did a tune up and setup on my rig after I bought it from my brothers. I assumed that IH suppliers would have access to the right thing. I'd spring for a good copy of the manual for both the tractor and the H-42. I will give the sponsors an email and check out their offerings.

To the shear pin question: To wit, International H-42 and H-48 Snow Throwers Setting Up Instructions, Operators Manual, page 18 which says, "The snow thrower drive components are protected from damage by a shear pin located in the drive shaft yoke at the gear box output shaft. Should the rotor/collector strike or pick up a hidden object or become jammed, the shear pin will break and the rotor/collector will stop, releaving the strain on the drive line parts."

I guessed he was referring to this thing that IH describes. One of the other posters referred to another type of thrower, perhaps an OH number? and that the pix in that are better. Anyone seen both manuals and can say that it is worth spending the bucks to get both, just for better descriptions? Finally the second page of the manual I have refers to Technical Publications Available, with the operator's manual at $2.50, and the Parts Catalog CPE-2 at $8.90, their price two decades ago. If it costs more is it bigger and better and fuller of info? I'd imagine there are exploded diagrams, but that's just a guess.

 

[tcbusch]

Bryan,
Just think, with me posting the question everyone wins. You get to call me stupid and I get my answer. Don't worry, I'm not the least bit offended. I'll have to thank Charlie for actually answering the question though.
We should make a new rule:
If your going to give anyone a hard time for posting a question you should be obligated to answer the said question.

BTW, I don't have a manual for the snow thrower. I really don't have any desire to get one. There is a local IH dealer a mile from my house. I buy everything I can from them when it comes to my cubs. I don't really care if it costs a few bucks more. I want them to stay in the business of selling cub parts. It would have been easy for me to go down there and pick up a quart of whatever they told me to put in there.
My main reason for asking is to see if other people have changed their gear lube over to grease after their gear box started getting sloppy. I didn't want the oil to just leak through a seal.

So thats my new question:
Has anyone ever changed their gear lube over to grease after their gear box started getting sloppy. I didn't want the oil to just leak through a seal.

Bryan fire away!

Anyone else.... thanks in advance for your answer to my question.

 

[farmall gray]

Earl L,
Here is my chute rotator made from an automotive wiper moter.

 

[digger]

Terry B,
All kiddin aside, if you have a dealer that close, and your gearbox is sloppy already it might just be the bearings and seals causing it. I rebuilt mine and the bearings and seals all came to less than 30 bucks from a dealer. Well worth the money IMHO.

BTW, I have all TFM's, only cause I was to lazy to ask/post back when I first started messin with Cubs.

 

[dkirk]

Dale,

I just came in from repairing my snowthrower and all tested out fine. The clevis pin I referred to should be available at Farm & Fleet, auto parts store, or good hardware store. The size is .250 diameter by 1.75 inches long. It looks like this:

It's retained by a cotter pin. These are soft steel (not heat treated) verus those spirol pins which are like spring steel. When they break, they're nasty to get out of the bores. The clevis pins fit tightly and seem to do the job, at least for me. What put mine over the edge was when the dog toy was injested (I think). I always try to remember to idle the engine down before engaging the pto clutch as the shock load is lessened on all the thrower's rotating parts.