• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through January 13, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dtanner

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
6,539
displayname
Donald Tanner
Kraig
I need to pick your brain here lol. ( install 1/4" solid GROOVE pins , you know the solid pins with punched grooves along their exterior length and then weld).
Could you post a picture of these pins? I need to buy some and I will need a trade name for them and I hope you can help me. Thanks Don T
 
Matt, what ever you do, dont put it in the tire. I had to deal with someone elses mess of slime. Ya...not fun. Throw a tube in it and call it fixed, its alot cleaner.
 
Thanks Kraig on the pin info. have a great day
old.gif
 
Matt S.-

I know most guys do their own tire work but I personally don't like even messing with tires. I Have a tire business only a couple of miles from here and they will install a tube to fix the tire problem for $10. That's the total for a front tire. The rears cost a little more. You might want to check your local tire company and see what they'd charge. I've opened up tires with both fix-a-flat and slime and it is a mess and another reason having others fix it. Another reason I do this is if the tire goes flat within a reasonable time they will fix it again for free. It's sort of a small guarantee.

Just an idea to throw at ya....Wayne
 
yes i usually take it to my local tire place but its such a slow leak i was hoping to use up some of this fix a flat... thanks for the input guys, ill get er fixed!
 
Ahhh Yes, the tire debate, Almost as good as the oil debates, Hy Tran verses Whatever, and Synthetic verses conventional motor oil.

IMHO ALL tires on CC's need/deserve tubes, and I wouldn't hesitate to say ALL ag & construction equipment also. About the most accurate statement would be that anything moving under 20-25 miles per hour should have tubes. Car, truck, & trailer tires should be tubeless, the friction between tire & tube while rolling and flexing does cause problems.
 
where does everyone get the tires at and what are your $.I want a set of tires here 16 - 6.5 - 8. Icant buy these tires over here well can`t find a dealer that has much to look at.
184087.jpg

Thanks Don T
 
Snowthrower research and questions, I want to upgrade to electric chute control on my qa42a. I see in the archives that there are several good plans etc. I cannot locate a gearmotor mentioned by David Kirk. the supplier is out. anyone know of an acceptable/like and cheap alternative. I was hoping to find this motor, any ideas/links appreciated.
184090.jpg
 
additional note on the motor: 44 RPM 12/24 VDC 1/70 HP ENTSTORT GEARMOTOR thanks
 
Jeff-

Practically any electric window motor will work.

Don-

Search for Vredestein V61 tires. I just got some for my 782, but they didn't come until I got back down to school.

Brian-

Autodesk Inventor 2009. I just installed 2010 on my computer but haven't tried it yet.
 
Jeff,
I got mine from a junkyard in the scrap pile for free... the rest of the window regulator was fubar, so I got it for nothing... Mine happened to come out of a Chebby Lumina... most of the motors seem to look very similar, and probab ly could be adapted...
184094.jpg

184095.jpg


I have uploaded a movie of the rotator in action at this url:
http://72.35.72.219/~library/10157/Cub_1751.MOV
 
My 149 had bad tire problems all summer. Had to air the fronts up each week. I knew winter would be a pain so I ordered a pair of std ribbed tires from Northern Tool for about $30/each to my door(Kenda brand: part no: 13450-1001. I think that is the one I got?). I wasn't going to get new tires, but put a screwdriver through the bead on one trying to get it off the one bead(it was stuck bad). Figured might as well start off with new tires.

I pulled the old rims/tires and wire wheeled the inside of the one rim(it was rusted bad from constant moisture from being flat all the time), plus did both bead areas til smooth and clean. I spary painted the inside with paint I had and mounted up tires with new valve stems.

Been 2 months without issue and holding air fine. Tubes are fine, but as long as the rim(bead area) is clean, the valve stem is good it should hold air fine.
 
Don T - Two weeks ago I went to the local garage and ordered Carlisle front tri ribs, 4.00x4.80 for 42 bucks a tire w/ tubes. Carlisle 6-12 ags for 70 bucks with tubes. He ordered them and they were in within a week. Mounting was free.
 
Scott,

About that chute rotator, great work, that is a clean install. Is that Lovejoy coupling half simply a light press fit onto the motor's gear? I like that entire setup. Now to do similar work on my post -81 tractor's #551 blower.
 
I have(had) my7 tri-ribs on my 124 for plowing, but my personal opinion is that they suck when theres no weight on the front for traction. I put the 16x6.50-8 ags back on the front and what a difference. Im not putting tri-ribs down or anything; all im sayting is w/p weight they're useless in snow. During the summer when its wet or muddy, ya they work good.
 
Brian Moir
the tri rbis I like are $140.00 on epay and those Vredestein V61 Are $160.00 and then add shipping and exchange to usd and taxes . these 2 tires could run me $260.00 . I have to find a deal like you have done . I have more than one set of weather checked tires here.Now if I could buy a used set and have them shipped lol I would be a happy cuber. Later Don T
 
Jim D,

You are correct... I had to machine the gear a little to get it to press on, all
I did is run the motor at the same time grinding with a die grinder... the set screws on the lovejoy hold it there...
 
DON T. - That tire You posted the pic of is a FIRESTONE, and Your lucky, I think they only make them in 16-6.50x8's. The Vredestein's Matt mentions is a good tire I hear, think Steve B. has them on one of His SGT's, they're a 4-rib tire, flatter foot print. But they're imported from Sweden I think, therefore pretty expensive.
I've heard the Firestone kinda tears up yards while turning when mowing because the big center rib is about all that touches the ground. I also wouldn't recommend it for loader duty, that tall center rib would do bad things to the tire casing on hard surfaces.

LARRY K. - I "THINK" between my 3 CC's I only have two tires left to tube-up, the frts on the 982. I'll admit I've never had a flat, or even a low tire that I remember in about ten years but the first one will be the last one and they'll both get tubed.

When I was tire buyer at FARMALL, the biggest complaint We heard from dealers & customers was the fact We used two sizes of tubeless rear tires and all Our frt tires on 2 WD's were tubeless. Even with brand new tires, wheels & valve stems We had about 5-10 flats from tubeless tires every day and the assemblers mounted up more tires in a day than ALL the tire dealers in the Quad-Cities combined. Normal day was 250 frts and about 400-450 rears on two shifts. The normal drill was to R&R the tube in rear tires, no patching. I'd buy 20-25 tubes for 18.4 x 38 radials and they'd use them in everything from 15.5's to 20.8's and they'd sit around for months before I had to get more.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top