Archive through January 12, 2009

[thoffman]

Dave "G",
The third hand and the sixth finger always helps. Or you can keep a extra 6'er in the fidge for when the neighbor comes over.

 

[dfrisk]

Whew....TOUGH day. Was going through IH Withdrawl, The RPM forum was down almost all day for updates. I had to sign up and register to Binder Bulletin.

 

[jharvey]

David
Help yourself out by separating the blade and subframe if you haven't already. Install the subframe first then connect the blade to the subframe. Use a crowbar to spread the subframe over the a-frame. If the subframe gets spread too far to put in the retainers turn the wheels hard left and use a furniture clamp to squeeze them back. This is the only method I use now after fighting with it for several years. Makes storing it a breeze during the summers too.

 

[jbliler]

Keith L, whats the deal? you have a lift rod and I have the blade holder with that weld on arm. Now we have to find another CCO.

 

[jmacdonald]

Kraig Mc. and Dennis F. Thanks for the reply. The broken friction disk is worn down quite a bit and I imagine that's why it let go. I haven't paid much attention in the past to checking if I had any missing lugs, but I will now. I know that I am was very fortunate to have all the set screws back right out. I figured it would be a battle royal and soaking with PB etc. I might try to get the new clutch assembly installed tonight, and I wondered would a small amount of never seize on the clutch bearing keep it from sticking to the clutch asssembly in the future or would I have problems getting the set screws to hold the the clutch assembly to the clutch bearing without spinning?

 

[kmcconaughey]

James, the cone point set screws don't grab into the bearing surface they set just behind it kind of on the shoulder as it were. See:

 

[jbliler]

James, that anti-seaze is fine inbetween the bearing and the hub. It just doesn;t take much. K ind of a pain if you get it on the clutch disc or the belt pulley. If you just get too much it will travel all by itself.That silver stuff gets everywhere!
You might thank yourself for running a thread tap through where the set screws go. Never hurts. Someone must have been nice before for them to come out so easy for you.

 

[jbliler]

Good timing, Kraig.

 

[tstewart]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Since its cold out I am probably going to leave my tire chains on as is and next time I work on it I'll try shortening and trimming em as well as deflating the tire some first, etc. Seems to be working fine and man o man do they make a difference. I dont have any extra weight on the 129 and I'm not a big fellow either (oh about 170#) but the thing is pushing snow just fine on my gravel driveway and I havent got stuck yet. Then again most the snow is only like 2-4" deep. But it doesnt take very long till its built up a rolling pile the hieght of the blade.

The lift handle is intermittent, sometimes it will let me push the button sometimes not, sometimes it will lock in the upright position sometimes I have to fiddle with it.

Anyone ever rig up some small wheels or something behind the blades? Those tiny shoes doent seem to do much anything on dirt and gravel except dig in. I know I am a plow newb, but there has got to be a better method... at least I know the spring trip works... layed her out flat a few times and still just about went over the wheel once. I got to slow down lol.

 

[tteague]

<font color="119911">James, dont put anti sieze on the set screws. The screws will back themselves out in a week or two if you do. I tried it. Although I did put anti sieze on the bearing were it sets into the PTO. What I've been doing with the set screws is just taking them out bout once a month so they wont "lock" themselves in again.

</font>