i found a real nice original yesterday but the guy wont part with it it sits in the bushes by the house i heard its been sitting their for years when i was at the dinner this am the guys told me where theirs 2 more cubs sitting but they dont know the model numbers they said i should be able to get them cheap
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Archive through January 12, 2009
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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Jerry, here's bad Sam:
Steve M., nice!
Steve M., nice!
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Tristan,
Chains usually come long...to cover all of the possible tire options. I just put a set of 26x12x12 chains on my 1872 and had to do some trimming.
Pry open the connecting hooks on the cross links you don't need (overlap) and take them off...save them in the garage for a repair down the road. Then with the chains installed like you want them, leave 2 extra side chain links (helps when putting them on to have a link or two to play with) and cut off the rest with a bolt cutters. Perfect fit......
I took 3 cross links and about 8 side links out of my 26x12x12 chains to make them fit right....better too long and cut to fit, than not long enough.
Chains usually come long...to cover all of the possible tire options. I just put a set of 26x12x12 chains on my 1872 and had to do some trimming.
Pry open the connecting hooks on the cross links you don't need (overlap) and take them off...save them in the garage for a repair down the road. Then with the chains installed like you want them, leave 2 extra side chain links (helps when putting them on to have a link or two to play with) and cut off the rest with a bolt cutters. Perfect fit......
I took 3 cross links and about 8 side links out of my 26x12x12 chains to make them fit right....better too long and cut to fit, than not long enough.
Tristan, just a thought,when i put the chains on my 149 i deflated the tires to 9 lbs and after install i put the air pressure at 12 lbs. that helped with the install and made the chains tighter when i was finished.i do run 100 lbs weight.
Kendell Ide (Kide) thanks that is what I was after, i didn`t know if the plow should be tipped back or ahead. I will modify the 1862 sub frame now to give me what i want. The 129 loader will carry that blade next winter after a quick attach is put on the blade and the bucket. I think the loader will be better for plowing with the blade than the bucket. now i need to buy another control valve for the loader and i `am happy that i bought the power beyond valve when in built the loader. Thanks so much guys for all the help. Have a great Day all. later Don T
Kendell Ide (Kide) thanks that is what I was after, i didn`t know if the plow should be tipped back or ahead. I will modify the 1862 sub frame now to give me what i want. The 129 loader will carry that blade next winter after a quick attach is put on the blade and the bucket. I think the loader will be better for plowing with the blade than the bucket. now i need to buy another control valve for the loader and i `am happy that i bought the power beyond valve when in built the loader. Thanks so much guys for all the help. Have a great Day all. later Don T
Bruce- no problem man I have done the same in the past, but have tried to mellow a bit when it comes to things I don't have a ready parts supplier for
Kraig Thanks for the info. I didn't see third hole. could be caked with crud maybe, I'll look again. otherwise I'll put a 2in. grade 5 bolt in one of the set screw holes and give it a tug and see what happens.
-edale
Kraig Thanks for the info. I didn't see third hole. could be caked with crud maybe, I'll look again. otherwise I'll put a 2in. grade 5 bolt in one of the set screw holes and give it a tug and see what happens.
-edale
James MacDonald - re: PTO clutch friction discs, the problem I've had the most in the past with them has been breaking into chunks then the clutch will slip or won't completely release. But it's entirely possible that the driving lugs on the disc can all shear off also. Best to get a rebuild kit for Your model CC and rebuild it. There's "anti-rattle clips" included with the rebuild kits but the fluted basket the disc drives off is slightly enlarged on My 72 and the clips won't stay in My clutch, so I run without them. Once You get used to what sounds ALL the world like a knocking wrist pin or rod bearing in the engine they still work fine for hundreds of hours.
Running a snow blower is when I've had most of My PTO clutch problems too....Guess it's the fact You run the tractors for all they're worth that helps find the weak parts in them. And a little shock loading from a chunk of ice or some frozen snow is all that's needed.
Running a snow blower is when I've had most of My PTO clutch problems too....Guess it's the fact You run the tractors for all they're worth that helps find the weak parts in them. And a little shock loading from a chunk of ice or some frozen snow is all that's needed.
Tristan, that long curved hook on the chains is looped through then levered back and hooked into the chain. Here's a link to a JD tractor manual,
with instructions on how to install that type of chain. FWIW, my old 125 has that same style of chain.
Don T,
I've been trying to follow your saga with the leveling problem your having with the 54" blade on your 149 and frankly have been having difficulty understanding what you are saying and getting more confused with your recent posts so I thought I would chime in with a few thoughts and see if they can be of any help. Maybe posting a picture or two of the problem would help too.
That subframe that came with your 54" blade is for a SGT like a 982 or possibly the 1862? which you mentioned it came off of originally. The SGT's have bigger diameter tires and the front axles are different from your 149 so as to raise up the front end and keep everything level. That is why the 54" subframe quick-attach arms are ~2" longer, as you have indicated, since a SGT has more ground clearance. I also thought the subframe was longer for the SGT's as I thought the distance between the front quick-attach lugs and the fwd foot rest pedestal cross-rod was an inch or two greater than that distance on a regular garden tractor. I was very surprised when you were able to attach the 54" subframe to your 149 so perhaps that was a wrong assumption on my part.
You can take the subframe off your 42" blade and install it on your 54" blade A-frame and all should fit well which is what I thought you had done recently in one of your pictures you previously posted. With that subframe and the blade angled at 45-degrees, the blade edge should set flat on a level surface in the lowered position. If it doesn't then something is not installed correctly or misaligned. Check the rear mounts of the subframe to make sure they are both engaging the fwd foot rest cross-rod correctly and that you are inbetween the frame rails. Look to see if the subframe is sprung or damaged. Check your rear tire pressures to make sure they are equal and the tire sizes are equal. Make sure your quick attach arms are both engaged correctly in the lugs and the latch is in the locked position. Hope this helps.
I've been trying to follow your saga with the leveling problem your having with the 54" blade on your 149 and frankly have been having difficulty understanding what you are saying and getting more confused with your recent posts so I thought I would chime in with a few thoughts and see if they can be of any help. Maybe posting a picture or two of the problem would help too.
That subframe that came with your 54" blade is for a SGT like a 982 or possibly the 1862? which you mentioned it came off of originally. The SGT's have bigger diameter tires and the front axles are different from your 149 so as to raise up the front end and keep everything level. That is why the 54" subframe quick-attach arms are ~2" longer, as you have indicated, since a SGT has more ground clearance. I also thought the subframe was longer for the SGT's as I thought the distance between the front quick-attach lugs and the fwd foot rest pedestal cross-rod was an inch or two greater than that distance on a regular garden tractor. I was very surprised when you were able to attach the 54" subframe to your 149 so perhaps that was a wrong assumption on my part.
You can take the subframe off your 42" blade and install it on your 54" blade A-frame and all should fit well which is what I thought you had done recently in one of your pictures you previously posted. With that subframe and the blade angled at 45-degrees, the blade edge should set flat on a level surface in the lowered position. If it doesn't then something is not installed correctly or misaligned. Check the rear mounts of the subframe to make sure they are both engaging the fwd foot rest cross-rod correctly and that you are inbetween the frame rails. Look to see if the subframe is sprung or damaged. Check your rear tire pressures to make sure they are equal and the tire sizes are equal. Make sure your quick attach arms are both engaged correctly in the lugs and the latch is in the locked position. Hope this helps.
dgallagher
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- Feb 12, 2000
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- displayname
- David Gallagher
Whar is the secret to an easy mounting of a blade on a 149? I have tried and have ended up getting a neighbor to help each time. Thanks
