Archive through January 11, 2010

[pdorow]

Brag R.
I know what you mean regards to the lift handle, I made the same mod to my 1250.

 

[rpalmer]

Winter up date. Still running 40W and the 104 is starting without any assistance from anything including shelter, with temps at start time of 8 degrees. I'll keep ya posted.

 

[jott]

last winter i was kicking around the idea of putting a NF hydraulic lift on my 124 and leaving the manual lift on it, but using the hydraulic lift pump to run a cylinder for a hydro turn blade. Wouldnt that work? just get longer hoses and couplers made and run them up to the plow.

IK NF lifts are hard to find and you would want to use them for what they are intended... but I have an extra one sitting here that needs some cylinder parts and thought I could use it for this...
any thought or suggesttios welcome

 

[pbell]

Kraig, Kendell, Matt and others,
I believe the picture in question is tractor mounted log splitter, although I do not know who it belonged too

Along with Harold's 411, there was a bit of Cub Cadet history under that canopy (RPRU 2004, Mt.Pleasant, IA)

from left to right is #409, #411, and Jim C's #518. To the left of 409 are 3 more early "O"'s

The left one is "all original", the right one is #510 before refurbishing, and in the background is recoil start #1018

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul B., thanks for clearing that up.

 

[pbell]

The restoration/refurbishing work on #411 had just been completed by Jeremy Hoover (sp), but the wrong voltage reg had been used and incorrectly wired and it kept draining the battery until "we" got the book out and wired it to work until the correct VR could be found

This picture was taken on a Friday, the picture of Harold in the red shirt was taken on Saturday as he was getting ready to load his tractor for the trip home, and he passed away on Sunday night/Monday morning.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul, I was wondering why the battery was disconnected in the photo I posted of #411's right fender, that explains it. Thanks for the info on Harold, I remember hearing (reading) it but couldn't remember the details.

 

[kide]

Paul:
Thanks again for the history behind the pictures!

That splitter setup sure does have a large reservoir.. I see snap couplers, I'm guessing that he could have several implements ready for that old guy..

 

[vgoncalves]

Jim, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I found info on the 982 and other X82's on this site (Link removed by DEMAND of the site owner) under "Model Information Sheet"

 

[jbaker]

I opened the top end of the k301 and have a few ??
1. how does the head and engine top end look and how far and what cleaning do i do.
2. looking at faq instr. after i remove the snap ring for the balance gear i just whack the webbing hard.
3. how far do i go on exterior clean up
I am just refurbing lightly as a working tractor not restoring to new no plans for paint right now

 

[kide]

"The right direction????"

 

[mmorrison]

Hay Paul that looks like a good cub meet when and where is it. I am also looking for the pics of a cluch spring compreser some one made. Thay had like a blue print of it.Thanks mike

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike M., you must mean Matt G's clutch spring compressor:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's an actual photo of it:

 

[mstetar]

ok ive got a tire question, i know that Fix-a-Flat has harmful affects on rims but my front tire on the 149 runs low every few days, is there any other tire sealers that i could use that wouldnt make me kick my self down the road from now? i know one of the tires has a tube and if its the one with the tube going flat fix-a-flat would be ok right?

 

[proessler]

Matt S I'd tube the tubeless tire or patch the inside of the leaker tire & R&R the leaking tube.

 

[ljerickson]

Jeff Baker,

It doesn't look like there's enough carbon there to make much difference. If you hack it loose, you'll probably just accelerate the cylinder bore wear.

Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees so that you can look at the cylinder walls. If there's any of the original crosshatch left, don't disassemble, everything is good as it can be. From the bottom end, grab the big of the connecting rod. It should wiggle side to side but not up and down. If the cylinder bore crosshatch is OK, and the the connecting rod does not wiggle up and down, put it back together with new gaskets. There's nothing to fix.

On the other hand, why did you take it apart? If it had excessive oil consumption then that's the time to pull the piston for a re-bore. It would also be a good time to check the crankpin and the connecting rod big end for clearance. This would also be a good time to remove the balance gears if you so desire.

I'm of the opinion of it's isn't broke don't fix it. I'm also of the of the opinion that if you pull the piston out of the bore, you need to fix everything.

I'm not sure that this is the best advice. I hope others will chime in.

Lee

 

[kphill]

Jeff, What year is your k301? If it was built before 1970 or so it probably does not have balance gears. If you have the engine out you can take the pan off and look..

 

[jpatchett]

Jeff,

The pictures don't show much detail, but things appear to be typical. I inspect at the cylinder wall, valve seats, and head to block mating surfaces for scratches, nicks, voids, gouges, any imperfections. The exhaust valve seat may show signs of moderate to severe erosion on engines with a lot of hours.

Clean off as much of the carbon with a wire brush or wheel, be careful with the aluminum head. The gasket area on the aluminum head should be resurfaced. Start with 320 grit wet sand paper on a very flat surface (plate glass), move the head in a figure 8 motion on top of the wet sand paper until the gasket area is perfect (no scratches). Finish up with 600 grit or higher. If you are not familiar with this, ask for more info, as I did not get too detailed.

Jim

 

[jpatchett]

Lee,

I pull the head off every newly acquired cub I have. This gives me a good indication of the health of the engine, head gaskets are cheap. However I don't usually pull the engine out.

Jim