Archive through January 11, 2010

[kmcconaughey]

Allen, it could be a sand blaster.

The photo was taken by Jim Chabot, well, I'm not positive that Jim actually took the photo, a couple of years back, he sent a CD with a bunch of Cub Cadet related photos, that one of Harold on #411 was one of the photos.

 

[glippert]

Brad Rainey - Thanks for confirming that my 1450 is "normal." Yours looks great. I never even considered moving the handle to the other side (even though I've seen discussions about it - before I owned this one, so it never made it to my long term memory!). I'm used to using the hydraulic lift on my 782, and that's on the left, so the change would make perfect sense for me, too. Thanks for the response and the idea!

 

[glippert]

In terms of oil pans (fit and mounting holes), is a k341 a k341? If I need to replace mine (haven't dared to look yet how badly it's worn after the PO's unique modification and lack of iso-mounts!), do I need a specific series, or will one from a 149 interchange with my 1450? How about a k341 from an off-topic tractor? I'll find out tonight, but I fear the mounting holes are partially stripped out and the bottom of the pan badly worn at the mounting hole locations. Can the holes on this cast pan be filled in & re-drilled/tapped? I'd have to take it to my local machine/welding shop, so it may not be cost effective, even if it's possible.

(Where's the Grump when I have these welding questions? - I know, I know - he's fishin'.)

 

[kide]

Kraig:
That's got an oil filter and hydraulic lines running to the back.. Is that something upright attached to it, or is that a power pole??

Grump may be ICE fishin' today...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kendell,

that's the only photo I have that shows it. You and Allen have seen as much as I have of it.

 

[dtanner]

Kendell Ide
and a looks like the air lines run to the back of that tractor, The filter can be for moisture, could it? later Don T

 

[kmcconaughey]

Greg, I believe a 14hp out of a 149, or from a 147 would have the same oil pan as a 14hp out of a 1450. I believe that a 12hp out of a 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 1200, 1250 would also have the same oil pan. The 10hp used a flat oil pan rather then the deep sump pan used on the 12hp and 14hhp.

 

[kharvey]

The mystery photo is a post hole auger, and the tank is hydraulic fluid i think.

 

[elamott]

I am installing the cam assembly in my 12 HP K301 and I have a another question for someone regarding the shim. The manual calls for end clearance of .005 to .010. With no shim, I can slip in the .011 feeler gauge on the top side of the shaft but if I try to turn the cam with the .011 feeler gauge in it binds. With a .010 feeler gauge it does not bind. On the bottom side I can put an .008 feeler gauge in but when I turn the cam it binds but a .007 will not. Am I thinking correctly that I have about a .007 end clearance? The narrowest part?
My old way of thinking was a little loose (with in reason) was better than too tight.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Earl LaMott

 

[dfrisk]

EARL - the end of your cam must have .001" of runout. Or that side of the block isn't purpendicular to the bore for the shaft the cam runs on.
The tolerance is .005"/.010". I'd check the other end of the cam to confirm the clearance, then stick a .002" or .003" shim in. I always try to stay to the small end of that tolerance, the block grows as it gets warmer.

 

[bbrigham]

Brad...That's a good idea, swapping sides with the lift lever. I don't have two right hands either and find it very awkward to fumble around reaching around the wheel to change direction and lift. Enough time on excavators and back hoes has gotten me spoiled though.

I was also goin to offer some advice on the electrical connections when the topic was brought up a couple days ago but forgot until my 73 stranded me at the other end of our drive and had to be towed back by my 1450. The electrical gremlin came back, a bad connection on the ignition switch. I was in a hurry the last time I worked on the switch and didn't grease the plug. I use dielectric grease or de-ox on <u>all</u> connections that I take apart to clean and tighten including any ground wires. That helps greatly to prevent any reoccurring problems. The dielectric grease is from any auto parts store and the de-ox I got from an electric wholesaler when I worked as an electrician. They are kinda pricey considering how much ya get but it's well worth it.

 

[glippert]

Thanks, Kraig

 

[jdiederichs]

Earl,

I agree with Dennis. Keep endplay towards the minimum, if too loose the camshaft generates extra noise that sounds like piston slap. His advice is sound.

 

[mmorrison]

Is this the pic you guys are taking about?

 

[bjrainey]

Greg, Brendan,
I found the left hand lift handle to better fit my needs.
How ever probably wouldn't have done it just for the sake of doing it. But since I was going to have tear it down to fix it, made the change.
Works better for me.
Brad

 

[jbaker]

I started dismanteling the k301 I couldnt wait to see the balance gears

there they are!!
and a photo of the rodent condo

 

[elamott]

Jim and Dennis:
Thanks for the comments. Those little things like that I am not sure of. I am going to visit my neighbor and see if he has some material to make a shim. I sanded mine down but it is still to thick. My neighbor usually has just about everything or the material to make it. I am going to try the .002 or .003 and see what happens. Am I correct in turning to cam with the feeler gauge against the shaft to make sure that the end clearance is the same when it is turning?
I was surprised that it was different from top to the bottom.
Thanks again
Earl

 

[glippert]

As I was cleaning up all the electrical connections on the 1450, I thought perhaps some folks may not know how to take apart and clean the inside of the moulded plastic plugs with connectors inside, so I snapped a few pics.

Although this one just has mostly dust & dirt inside, the rusted, corroded ones are the same. Notice that one sid of the plug has a raised channel. That's where the connector is "latched" inside the plug.

I used one side of a cotter pin to slide into the channel to release the latch.

Gently, but firmly, pull the wire out of the plug while releasing the latch with the cotter pin. You may be surprised at how bad the connector looks (although this one's not bad).

You can clean the connector any number of ways - I like to use my Dremel with a small brush wheel.

When the connector is all cleaned up, gently raise the latch again, so it will catch inside the plug.

Apply some dielectric to the connector and slip it back into the plug. You'll be able to hear the latch catch hold inside the plug. The finished product will give you another 40 years of service!

 

[bbrigham]

Greg....That's the way I do mine

If the connectors are real bad, take a sample to NAPA, new ones can be had in bulk.

 

[mgonitzke]

Greg-

I do mine that way, too. I've also discovered that most 'broken' ignition switches can be fixed by carefully removing the back and cleaning the contacts and reassembling.