Archive through January 09, 2010

[dsacksteder]

Welcome Matthew

 

[rmay]

Good evening! It's beginning to get a little nippy here in SW Michigan, about 0 degrees tonight. Does anyone know if there is a problem with using a heated dipstick in my 149? I don't have a garage, my only other option would be a heat lamp. Ideas? Thots? Thanks, Roger

 

[stanner]

Welcome, Roger

I'm not a fan of heated dipsticks, they burn the oil.... I run Synthetic 5w-50 in my 149, it helps a lot... a magnetic block heater would be better, and place it on the hydro, as the starter is turning that, too...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Roger, the dipstick heater wont help any. The best thing to do is heat the rear differential. On a hydro when the engine turns, the hydrostatic pump also turns, and when the Hy-Tran is cold the pump turns hard. Probably wont help you out tonight, but at the first opportunity get yourself a magnetic heater. I have a 200 watt model that I use when it gets really cold. I place it on the bottom of the Cub's differential, see below. Until you can get a magnetic heater use the heat lamp, but aim it at the rear differential, just don't burn the paint.

 

[dglover]

BTW, Did I ever mention how much fun plowing snow with a 2072 and Haban blade is?????
Was wondering if you experience the same problems that I have with my 982 with a Haban blade. I have 50lbs wheel weights plus chains and would like to add more weight to the back of the tractor, but when pushing snow the steering gets "light" the front tires seem to slide around.Is the plow lifting the front of the tractor? Do I need a different style front tire?

 

[rmay]

Do your typical parts stores carry magnetic heaters? I've never heard of one, but on the big farm tractors, before block heaters, we used to use sand in a steel 5 gallon pail, and soak it in kerosene, then light it. My Dad used it to heat his semi engine when very cold also. Back to the magnetic heater, I'll try to find one, tomorrow or Monday. Thanks,

 

[glippert]

I was just going through the FAQs again, because the more I learn about these tractors, the more some of the FAQs make sense to me. I noticed Kendell Ide's description of how to tighten up a loose front axle, because I just performed that repair on my 1450 today. Kendell shows the pivot pin should be driven out from back to front. I drove mine out from front to back, because the parts manual appears to show the pin behind the axle. Are these pins supposed to be able to be driven in either direction, or is mine worn so badly that it goes through in either direction? Or, do some models go one direction and others the reverse? I guess it really doesn't matter, as long as I got it out, but If I'm doing something wrong, I'd like to know...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Roger, I would think that they would be available at an auto parts store. Worst case, you can order them online.

Greg, the service manuals that I just looked at ("86 through 1650" and "70/100") don't specify a direction, just to drive the pin out. The exploded views all appear to show the pin at the rear of the axle giving the impression that it should be driven to the rear and installed from the rear.

One thing, NEVER drive the axle pin out toward the rear with the engine installed... though you could probably get away with doing that with a 10hp or smaller, unless it has a deep sump oil pan.

 

[crlamb]

My grandson has a 2050540U with Kohler 241AQS engine. He was riding on the tractor and it died.
I got to checking the tractor, pulled the spark plug and no fire...I am not the best mechanic, but can someone give me some ideas as to what to check.....I have points, but not sure how to install, I replaced condenser...condenser and points attached to negative post on coil....any thoughts ??? Thanks in advance for any assistance

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charles, "2050540U" is the number preceding the Serial number it is not the model number. However, that info, along with the engine model you listed, may indicate that you actually have a model 1000. Once we get this sorted out we can work on getting your Cub Cadet up and running.

 

[stanner]

Charles,

check out the Kohler site in the FAQ's
http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2379.pdf
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/serieslanding.htm?series=K-Series

could also be the coil itself, or the ignition switch

 

[glippert]

Thanks, Kraig. Either way, I got it back together and it's nice and snug now. And, yes, it would definitely be problematic to drive the pin back with the engine in. Makes me cringe just to think about the sick feeling I'd get when all the oil and shattered metal hit the floor!

 

[dross]

Charles, If it wsn't running bad before and it just died, use a multimeter and check for 12 volts at the battery. If you have 12 volts there make sure you have 12 volts at the coil. Makes a person think you have a bad switch or connection.
If you don't have a multimeter pull the point cover turn the switch to start while watching the points move, you should see sparks. If not try a jumper wire from battery pos. to pos. side of the coil and try it again. if you still don't see sparks from the points I would question the coil. If this does gives you spark at the points, check the spark plug, if it fires now its a switch or connection. It's a place to start anyway. Let us know how you make out.

 

[crlamb]

Kraig.. you are right, it is a 1000 series. Scott, if it is a coil, is that a "generic" coil or do I need Kohler Coil ?. I went to the Columbus pull today, purchased the points and condenser, but don't know for sure what to check. I installed the new condenser and when it did not start, I put the old one back on, and that is when I pulled the sparkplug and noticed no spark

 

[crlamb]

Dave, Scott and Kraig....you have given me some ideas. My grandson and I will spend tomorrow in the garage...we have our fingers crossed. I'll let you know how the two novices made out...any of you late nighters want to add suggestions, let um come, and thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charles, here's an electrical schematic that might be helpful. Regarding the coil, you'll need one with an internal resistor.

 

[digger]

Charles L.
Along with what everyone is suggesting.
Quietlines, which yours is. Are notorious for the PTO switch going bad OR mostly having a bad connection where the wiring harness plugs into it.
One thing you'll learn about Cubs real soon is, Clean all the wiring connections/terminals and then start messin with it, BTDT way to many times.

 

[glippert]

Prgoress on the 1450 today: Besides tightening the front axle, I got my tie rod and drag link straightened out and broken ball joints replaced. Also got the steering column and box repaired, rebuilt, and reinstalled (thanks again, Charlie). I reinstalled the engine mounting rails, with Brian Miller's solid mounts so I can compare vibration to the 1250 that I restored last winter.

I still have to make some repairs inside the dash pedestal before I put the pedestal back on, like replace the ignition switch and a fuse holder. I also need to take off some of the engine tin - I have a feeling the head gasket may be leaking I think I saw some oil under the tin when I took off the muffler. Did I mention I was planning to keep this simple and only replace the iso-mounts?

 

[mbounds]

Charles L: Permit me a minor correction. The 2050054U is in fact the IH Kind/Code for a MODEL 1000 of the Quiet Line (QL) series 1974-1979. Numerals following the U is the one-up serial number. On the other hand, The 1000 <u>series</u> is a current MTD/Cub Cadet Corporation series of lawn tractors found at the big "box" stores. It's a big difference.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[gxmiller]

Dan G - I had to put Ag tires on the front of my 147 to plow here in Idaho because the original ribbed tires slid around too much. And yes, pushing the blade down does lighten the steering.

--Gregory Miller