Archive through January 09, 2010

[nhasson]

Since PTO's were brought up again, a few weeks ago I thought I was going to have to rebuild mine and ended up just replacing the button. I checked mine and it still looked good and 2 days later it was shot. It seems the PTO lever shifted sideways in the frame and wore it down to nothing. Well, I never gave that too much though and just relaced the button and now the new one has a little bit of wear on it already. Seems I need to fix my PTO lever to keep it from sliding sideways. Anyone run into this before. Thanks, Nick

 

[dross]

Nick, The front "rock shaft" shifted in the frame? Thats a new one. The parts breakdown shows one bushing, left side, sitting on the tractor.

Myron, Good point.

 

[lhinds]

Nick; I have had two tractors that done the same thing. I solved that by placing a extra washer on one side of the shaft to center the button. I also set the arm to where the button only contacts the p t o when the p t o isn't engaged. When not using deck ect i keep the p t o engaged all the time. Hope this makes sense. Just my 02c

 

[jmuncie]

Nick, I had the same problem with my 126 a couple years ago. The narrow frames don't have the bushing like your 149. Luther's got the solution. If you're seeing premature wear on the button, it's because the button is in contact while the PTO is spinning. Make sure the linkage is adjusted so there's a gap when the PTO is engaged. If you don't have a mower deck or some other implement on the tractor, there's enough friction in the clutch assembly to make it spin even when disengaged, so leave the clutch engaged whenever your running with nothing hooked to the PTO. Jerry

 

[dfrisk]

NICK - Luther's correct, WF's had the PTO engagement shaft designed so it's easy to remove without taking the grill off. The bushing in the frame on the left side comes out, simply remove the cotter key & bushing, and you can pull the whole shaft out. There's a hole in the shaft and the bushing if I remember correctly and You should align the arm with the friction button in the center of the PTO clutch, then install washers on either side of the shaft to hold the shaft & arm in that location.

I had a 129 that would wear those friction buttons at a pretty good rate also...and spit them out in pieces about twice a year. I used to buy them 3-4 at a time. I have THREE PTO clutches now, two on NF's and another on my lawn vac and those buttons last forever on them.

 

[jmuncie]

Does anyone have experience with parts 5 & 12 on the tiller drive? I have 2 tillers and neither one came with these parts. I'm wondering if one or both of them would solve a problem I'm plagued with. When tilling in cover crops, I'm having a lot of trouble with plant matter being carried around pulley 2 by the belt. Anything even slightly woody and bigger than about 1/4" diameter throws the belt off. Would these parts help keep stuff from being carried into the pulley?

I would assume that 12 would do a pretty good job of preventing the bent gearbox shafts and chipped pulleys that I've had on two different gearboxes when I got them.

Both parts look pretty easy to fabricate. I just need to know where 5 mounts. Anyone have a picture?

Thanks,
Jerry

 

[mbounds]

Jerry M: The #5 belt guard bolts to the front of the transmission housing. Your diagram shows the gearshift version. There is another with slightly different shape for bolting to a hydrostatic transmission.They do not interchange either...

BTW: The belt does not go through the guard. The belt guard holds the belt slightly down to keep sufficient tension on that looong belt run to prevent whipping and belt damage.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[jmuncie]

Myron,

I would never have guessed on the belt routing <u>under</u> #5.

Thanks,
Jerry

 

[kide]

Greg:
I guess I could have also put a warning in to "not drive it through the oil pan", but thought that might offend somebody ...

Roger M:
Good to see another Michigander on here!! (IIRC we have something else in common.....)

My two cents on the PTO release button wear (especially timely since I just turned two new ones on the lathe last night): Learn how the PTO works..that is not a throwout bearing, the surface that it pushes against is only spinning when the clutch is engaged, so if you limit the time that button is pushed against the nose of the PTO you'll limit wear. The original composite buttons are actually supposed to create friction.
1: Slow the engine down before disengaging the PTO .. spindown time will be drastically lowered.
2: If you don't have the later type with the brake, it's not unusual for the clutch to spin if anything is dragging in the assembly, when you don't have a belted PTO driven attachment on. In this case, engage the PTO as soon as the engine is started, let it spin - the button won't be touching the PTO. (I know in a perfect IHC engineer's world it wouldn't happen, but once the bearing gets a little wear, etc. it does). I posted the alternate solution a few days ago..

 

[crlamb]

Thanks to all.....CProctor...what is "BTDT" ???