Archive through January 06, 2013

[rmcshane]

Art- I'm sorry, if I get a free minute in the next few days I will send them to you.

Harry and others- All three of my 169's have the hourmeter on the left side, and they get their power from the positive side of the coil and ground on the little screw that Harry described. Only one out the three work on mine though...

Frank-Sorry, I can't get any pics uploaded of the muffler conversion, but I do know that whoever did it took a 10-14hp muffler, and added an adapter to the threaded part of the 90 degree elbow and screwed it into the exhaust port. It is very nicely done. #4 169 is the only tractor I have that has the original muffler, #1 and #2 have converted mufflers. I may be converting #4 here shortly because I noticed it is getting really rusted out.

 

[jharder]

Scott L.
The somewhat normal mix rate is 4 to 1. However every paint is differant. Since you said your not use to painting I would suggest a slow thinner. And on the hardner I use it and wont paint something that I want to look nice with out it. When I paint irongaurd 2150 red I use a hardner ether from napa or one from IH called valspar. The IH hardner is in a blue and red can. Than I mix it 4 1 1.Dont use a cheap hardner or you may wake up dead the next morning.Hope this helps Jim.

 

[slent]

Jim and Charlie,

Thanks for responding. Could you explain what is meant by a ‘slow thinner’, and how a slow thinner will give me better results vs. the opposite (fast thinner I presume)? I am new to all of these terms, so when I go shopping for supplies, I either want to be familiar with these terms, or have a specific product in mind. Is there a specific type of hardener I need to look for to shoot the Cub Cadet paint? If I were to go to NAPA, would I be looking for a specific hardener with specific properties? If I were to go to a IH supplier, is there a specific Valspar hardener in a blue and red can I need to ask for?

My CC dealer recommends Toluene or Xylene as a thinner. Is one faster or slower than the other? What would you suggest?

Charlie suggests fish-eye remover too. What would I need to know to find one compatible with this paint?

Again, sorry for the ‘dumb’ questions…I’m in uncharted waters here.


Thanks for helping me out….

 

[jharder]

Scott
The differance in thinners are as followed. slow medium and fast. I use the fast but then again I have pantied alot of things. It all has to do with how fast the paint dries. The reason I said you should use the slow is because your not use to painting and it will give you more time to get your part painted. Tell ya what email me you phone number and I will give you a call and try to help ya that way. Jim

 

[mgwin]

Donald T.,

I may be a little late, but according to the manuals section Haban had a 402 A,D,E model. The A is shown for the early models, D is shown with the Z shaped grilles, and the E is shown with the 1x8 series and later. It is under the IH attachments section.

 

[thoffman]

Scott,
IMHO there is <u>NEVER</u> a dumb question when your talking about painting.

 

[rrschmitt]

Glen C,

I don't see that anyone responded to your post about your backfiring Cubbie. I assume it was running properly before cold weather set in. However, your condenser could have went bad. First, make sure the condenser wire is hooked to the negative terminal on your coil (same side as the points wire). If that is good, then try a new condenser. If that don't fix it, then it sounds like your timing is possibly off even though your points are set at .020", they could be opening and firing the plug too soon. I recommend you use the static timing method that Matt Gonitzke has on his website http://mgonitzke.net16.net/ under the "How To" menu (K-Series Static Timing). The gap may not be quite .020" after you use this method but the timing will be spot on. One other thought is try a new plug along the way if the condenser isn't the problem. Sometimes the plug will fire fine in open air but under pressure they hit and miss. Also backfiring can cause your plug to fail as well and cause the symptom so it would be worth checking.

If none of these help, then check for a leaking head gasket. Look for oily dirt/carbon buildup around the head. If so, then you will have to pull the head and get a new gasket. Also, this would be a good time to remove all carbon build up and check the head for flatness. Check Charlies FAQ's link at the top of the page for help on this issue. Hope this helps.

 

[dtanner]

Marty A. Gwin

Thanks for the info. I`am in no hurry for one ; but I will keep my eyes open for the correct one for the tractor I would love to have one on.

 

[aaytay]

Scott L-
Wow, that is impressive work!

Jeff B-
Thanks for the thoughts on the mysterious blue-wire. I've just never seen an electric lift on a 169 before, so that's what threw me for a loop.

Ryan M-
No rush..

Jim H-
"Don't use a cheap hardener or you might wake up dead the next morning." What do you mean by this? Is cheap hardener more dangerous than others? I'm a painting noobie, but this is a first for me.

 

[sblunier]

Acrylic enamel reducers (the correct "thinner" for acrylic enamel implement paint) are categorized as slow, medium and fast based on their evaporation time. This is directly correlated to ambient temperature and the temp ranges are marked on the cans. Too fast of a reducer and you can get dulling and overspray that won't "blend" back in.....too slow and you run and increased risk of contaminants (bugs, dust and the like) and you also miss the ideal re-coat window, or draw it out too long (waiting on your paint to tack up). These reducers are purchased at auto body paint suppliers.

I'd suggest staying on the slower side of the recommended reducer for your temp range, but not getting outside of the printed temp range.

With "generic" "enamel paint thinner" you will have to experiment with how the paint lays down and tacks up to make sure you can paint within the limits of the thinner. You also run a little more risk (IMHO) of having something go "wrong" with your paint, especially if you miss a recoat window , with the generic reducers.

It's an art, and I am by no means an expert, but what I describe above is based on acrylic enamel spraying myself and being around a lot of it sprayed on Ertl toys and big IH tractors (Big Steve's gig).

 

[sblunier]

Don't spray ANY acrylic enamel and ESPECIALLY acrylic enamel with ANY type of HARDNER without a good mask. Not a dust mask from Menards, but a real screw on filter type with appropriate filters. These chemicals are no joke and they have been known to cause serious health issues with workers in body shops back in the days of DuPont Centari, Imron, etc.

Jim H. is correct.....Please paint with your heallth in mind....

 

[jharder]

Here is what I meant. There have been people who have died by ether useing the wrong type or amount of hardner in paint. And belive it or not from what I have read on it you truly do wake up dead. What happens is the cheaper hardners use cheaper materials to make them. And we all know bout cheap materials. When you go to bed that eve your lungs and brain start shuting down then in the morning when you try to wake up or move its to much for your body to handle and you just bought the farm. Now thats from what I have read and I am not a Dr. All I can say is I dont use cheap hardner and I am still here. When the boy painted my 682 for a 4h project I made him wear a air fed helement just to make for sure he would be ok. And there not that hi in price. Jim

 

[mgonitzke]

You need more than just a mask...you need either a fresh air supply with a hood, or a respirator that covers your eyes, too. The isocyanates in the hardner are absorbed by your eyes, so a respirator that covers only your mouth and nose isn't going to cut it.

I bought a fresh air system on ebay a few years ago for about $300. Before you say that's expensive, consider the cost of a hospital visit. Then it seems pretty cheap.

 

[jharder]

Ours was only 150

 

[slent]

Steve and Matt,
Thank you for taking the time to explain that, as well as explaining the health risks. There is an awful lot to consider here. I’m getting a much better picture of what I need.

 

[dschwandt]

OK, so I bought a box of Cub parts from a fellow and found this pan. What's up with the extra tapped holes, one on each side?

Dave S.

 

[kshultz]

Thanks Charlie for taking care of my request in the Sandbox.

 

[jcarlton]

Hey, I have a problem on my CC70. I went out to start it and it started while I had the button pushed in, but it wouldn't keep running when i let the starter button go...I am not much on electrical, is it just the push button for the starter has gone out? It will run fine throttle up and down etc, it's only when I release the button it's like i turn the key off.

 

[wshytle]

David S.-

That pan isn't a pan from a cub or at least I highly doubt it. It's just made that way for another application. I don't see why it wouldn't work on a cub though. It could be for a green thing or Wheelhorse or something like that where they actually had a use for the tap.

That's my guess on the matter.

 

[pbell]

Jason C
Has any work or wireing repairs/changes been done to the tractor since the last time it started and ran like it was suppose to? If not I would say you have a problem with the ignition switch or wiring to or from the switch.