Archive through January 05, 2010

[wcardwell]

Dave, I wasnt sure if the k321 heads had much internal space difference from the 241 heads. I want to someday mill down and do some port work to a Kohler top end. Not on this cub its a snow thrower rig. Its head is warped so Ill fix that and hope to get a little snow .

 

[dross]

Wayne, thats why I answered Matt the way I did, Your talking about the quench area above the cylinder and over the valves? I don't know about that area of the head. I know I've changed heads around with no ill effects. Talk to someone who has done it cause taking to much off the sealing surface is shooting yourself in the foot.

 

[hsimon]

Had a great Christmas, got the divorce finalized on Dec 23, 2009 and proposed to the gal I've been seeing for a little over a year. The only sad part is that she put her foot down and said the cubs won't get the garage like they do now because she wants to park her car in it, so I guess i'm gonna be thinning out the herd to a more managable size

Even though I'm a happy man

 

[bborchers]

Hugh, women come and go but cubbies are here forever. How can you put them outside?

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE C. - K241 & K321 heads are the same. Things changed like spark plug location, the bosses where the head bolts pass thru can be different heights, and there may be subtle differences in the combustion chamber. But they all fit the 10, 12, & 14 HP engines.

Most people sand down the sealing surface with wet/dry paper & a glass plate or other smooth hard surface when they warp.

My old K241 had a head warped almost 1/8" when I got it, machine shop trued it up. I can't say the head never leaked, but it never blew another head gasket, When I'd start the engine it would "Whistle" which meant it was time to re-torque the head.

There's no problem doing head & port work on a "Working Tractor", I did a lot of cleaning on the intake & exh. ports on that K241, ran great for 1400 hours. On the K321 I built to replace the K241 I went a WHOLE lot farther. Problem with taking too much off the head on a "Flat head" engine like the K-series Kohler comes from reducing the flow area from the ports & valves to the cylinder. You can increase the compression but KILL the flow.

 

[mlamar]

A couple of pictures of the new addition taken last night. One photo in Ralph's garage before I handed him $ and a photo of me sneaking, I mean arriving home with it. Also added a photo of some of my CC's. Can't see much since I cover them. I store some inside and most outside. When I first started collecting them I would take them apart, mark all parts with correct serial numbers and stack the parts for a more compact storage. For example I would stack all the frames on one large pile, store engines inside on shelfs. I realized later that I would have to put them all back together again (and I couldn't move them when I needed to) so I now store them as a complete tractor even though I still have about 20 or 25 in parts. Live and learn. I mainly collect narrow frames but probably have one of each from the "O" up to the 1650.

 

[vthomley]

Brett Homan, I have a set of Duro Ags, they work very well for me. They are 23x10.5x12 ags, my kids and my nephews have won several Garden Tractor Pulls with these. I've used these for Plowing snow, plowing dirt and everything else. Here's some pics.

My 104 at Plow Day 17 in Iowa April 2009

My 104 and my 122, which has the Firestones, of course I love the firestones.

This Day the Duros did not work so well, hmm, maybe the driver should not have ventured there...

 

[jbaker]

Mike L all i can say is

if you ever have a yard sale let us know well all take a road trip to Ohio

 

[digger]

David L.
I'm not sure what your calling an actuator, so what small hole are you talking about?

 

[stanner]

Mike L...
"Mule-Drives-R-Us"? holy shnikees!!

 

[fcurrier]

I'm thinking this is the little hole David L. is wondering about (the one on the outboard end of the throttle shaft arm). Also thinking it's for a different application than a Cub Cadet engine. If I'm right, NO, Dave, you didn't lose a spring!

 

[npeacey]

Price shock recovery. The Kohler K301 in my 129 needs a complete rebuild. The crank at the front of the motor has been badly damaged by the front PTO/Clutch. Needs a new crank and new bearings and major work in the bearing area of the block. I have 2 quotes and both exceed the price of a new riding mower here in Canada.

I like the 129 and have enough upgrades to justify keeping it but not at the prices I have been quoted. I would like to replace the engine and have looked at Honda 11 Hp single and a 9 Hp diesel of unknown brand at Princess Auto. Both are under $1000.00, both are electric start and both only have output on the rear. I can see an easy mount and connection to the hydrostatic but cannot see an easy and reliable way to connect the mower deck.

I tried the Vault and a general search without success, can someone offer advice on both a choice of engine and a means of driving the mower deck from the rear of the new engine?

Thank you.

Norm P

 

[mstetar]

ok... im getting mad at IH stuff for the first time, i know that other brands some times have more clever ways to be more functional than IH but i am so sick of my neighbor driving by my house on his WH angeling his blade back and forth up in the air and laughing at me, when he does this im usually hopping off the seat to change the angle of my blade... i hate that, anyone know any easy ways to make a regular blade a power angle?
I cant be the only one that hates getting off the tractor to change the angle so how does everyone get past this?

 

[mgonitzke]

Norm-

Get a good used crank and block, and rebuild it. You can't beat the original engine for torque and reliability in my opinion. New emissions-compliant engines don't have the balls of a K-series Kohler. You can sit there and make adapters on a lathe to put the PTO clutch on another engine, but it'd be simplest to just get another block/crank and start over. It'll be good for another 35 years.

Matt S.-

With a bit of planning, you shouldn't need to constantly change the angle of the blade all the time. I can plow our 550' driveway and only change the angle of the blade twice: once after I back it out of the garage, and again when I pull it back in, because it won't clear the raised edge of the floor when it's angled. Dad's Farmall has a blade with a fixed angle, and this doesn't present any issues.

I guess you could get a hydraulic cylinder and make some brackets to angle the blade, but then you'll need front outlets...

 

[mstetar]

see, i dont plow any regular driveways, i do everything around the neighborhood, there are 2 normal driveways i do with the rest being simple "pull offs" off to the side of the road, i also do the sides of our roads because the township does one pass down the center of the road and then we dont see them again till the next storm, our roads are pretty wide and they usually leave 4-5 foot on both sides un-plowed, i also work on a lot of hills so sometimes its better to turn the blade and use gravity to help the tractor or try and get the power and traction to plow up hill!

 

[dross]

Norm if the clutch chewed the keyway up just have a machinist cut anouther keyway 180 degrees away from the first.

 

[npeacey]

The crank, front and rear bearing shells and the front bearing shell holder in the block are toast. I could hear noises but was not really aware of the damage being caused. I will look around for a block and crank but even if I find them I will still be into significant $ for a rebuild. Plus I still need a new clutch and bearing. Just trying to figure out the economics as I am on a fixed income.

Thanks for the suggestions

 

[bbrigham]

Norm...Welcome to the forum. If you keep lookin around you can pick up a good used engine for less than you'll pay for a cheap replacement. I've bought several <u>good</u> engines for under $200.

 

[dross]

Norm, Welcome,

 

[jlarsen]

Matt s
Look for a 1450 or a 1650 with power angle blade. My 1450 with power angle is great tilt it any time you want. You can put dual hyd on any hyd tractor.