Archive through January 04, 2013

[brhodes]

Daniel M.

I should have known you would have used a IH V8 in the Scout only makes sense. I had my from 1973 till about 1978. Made a few dollars moving snow. Gas was less than $1 so when I charge $5 to do most drive ways I was very happy.
I agree Paul the Scout did get around nice.

I'm still waiting for more then a 1/4" of snow to use the 109 and blade on.

 

[hydroharry]

Rodney K - good question on the Creeper. Nothing special that I'm aware of but hope some of the more experienced gear heads will pipe in. One thing, I told the story awhile back of my difficulty trying to fill a Creeper with fluid after I had installed one. I just couldn't figure out how to get the fluid thru that little fill plug on the side of the Creeper. After dumping a quart of oil on the floor trying to use a bent straw, it dawned on me to read the manual - and I discovered you remove the breather and fill it to the level of that plug on the side. Geez, another reason I'm a hydro guy. Just to hard to work on the gear drives. Now, just what fluid did I use in that Creeper? I know it weren't gear oil. Was it HyTran? 10W30?

 

[rkelm]

Harry, Thank you for the information. That is helpful to know about filling. I understand a lot of people like the Hydros - the gears just work best for me because all I do is mow with mine and the creeper will be an added bonus when I get in some really tall stuff. The person I got it from had a roto-tiller for it and I would have liked to have had it but where I would be using it there is way too many limestone rocks (fist size on up) and I have a tractor that works better. Thanks for the information. I'm guessing the oil is Hy Tran. Rodney

 

[dschwandt]

Opened up the 1650 to replace the busted fan and found this. Why are there 2 of these??

Guess this helps date my 1200. Tag from wiring harness fell out from under the dash,

Here's the vin# from the 1650, some one is collecting them?? Engine is #966213

Dave S

 

[dcmay]

Rodney K.
Those c/c roto tillers even work on the rocks here in Mi.

 

[rkelm]

Daniel c May - I was afraid of breaking the tines. Does it happen very often? Thanks for the encouragement and experience with the tiller. Anyway there was a piece missing and I may go back later and see what we can work out.
Thanks. Rodney

 

[rrschmitt]

Rodney K,

Check your 126's owners manaual or look it up under the Manuals section link down near the bottom of the main page. The Lubrication charts shows a 1/2 pint of HyTran is required in a creeper drive.

Dave S,

I assume you are referring to the rubber rag joints when you ask why are there two. The drive shaft coupler joints (both ends) on the Quietlines were improved over the 8/9 series and a second rag joint was added at each end. This was largely due to the isomounted engine cradle implemented on the QL series. However, this improved design was also continued on the 82 series. The second rag joint is especially helpful with transferring the higher torques/power that the higher 14, 16 and 17 hp engines produce. The improved design also greatly improved driveline reliability over the 8/9 series driveline i.e. less likely to shred the rag joint under heavy loads and it will last longer than the single rag joint. The QL/82 series rag joints have a bigger diameter hole in the center to accommodate the larger joint couplers versus a small center hole in the 8/9 series and earlier models rag joints.

 

[dschwandt]

Thanks Ron!!, So...there are supposed to be 2 of 'em in front also?? I got all but one of the rear bolts out, the 4th one is too long to clear the coupler on the pump and I can't get the d/shaft slid forward enough to disengage it.

Do I need to drive out the pin on the pump coupler to move it to the rear to disengage it from the D/shaft??

Geeesch, I sure hate to think of pulling the engine just to replace the fan.

 

[jbaker]

David that tag is a real cool find

Thank you Charlie that was starting to cause problems

 

[rrschmitt]

Dave S,

According to the parts lookup for a 1650, a quantity of 3 rag joints (disc, flexible coupling) are used so there should be one in front, two in the back. A 782 uses a total of 4. Yeah, removing the drive shaft can be a little bit of a pain but not too bad. You will need to remove the spirol roll pin on the front drive shaft coupler to allow the shaft to move fwd enough to get it out of the aft coupler. Be sure to inspect the spherical bearing in the coupler on your hydro input shaft as they can wear out. I recommend you consult the Service Manual for your 1650 in the Manuals Section link on the main page as it provides good instructions for removing the drive shaft. Be sure to support the drive shaft with jack or 2 x 2 if you drive out any of the spirol pins at the hydro end to prevent damage to your input shaft. Also having the proper pin punch tool for removing the spirol pins greatly helps facilitates removal of the pins. You can get a set at your local Sears store if you don't have any.

 

[tstewart]

Bill Jamison - using the chain was dual purpose. My float button thingy is missing out of the handle so it won't float unless I hold the button down with my thumb. I started out doing that the first time I plowed, and my hand was REALLY SORE after that!

But the first time I plowed I noticed the slightly taller 'super steer' front axle wasn't allowing the blade to go down quite low enough. It was fine especially uphill, but going downhill or whatever and I was leaving a couple inches of snow under the blade. It was just a quick impromptu solution, I grabbed what chain I could find. Since it had extra I just used one of those removable links and tied it back on itself. I later found I could easily adjust the height range up by taking the loose end up a few links. This was useful when I was doing some back dragging and wanted more clearance to get over the top of the snow. These plows really need more range. With the chain, at least its adjustable, though not quite as nice lookin'.

 

[ljones]

Tristan, the thing that bugs me the most is the drooping corner when the blade is angled.

 

[dschwandt]

FAQ's to the rescue!! Found out what I need to know. How come I never think of that befor hand??!!

Now....do I need to put a 2nd rag on the front coupler as well??

Dave S

 

[rfuller]

I put together this new cc Aluminium housing deck spindle. It's nice and tight. The older style what you call water pump bearings. These are a little loose, but it's not the bearings in them it seems to be between the bearing assembly and the two stamped sheet metal plates. The bearings seem to roll nice and smooth.

Should either style have any play? If so how much play is allowed? My son says they should to allow for some growth from heat, but not sure.

 

[fcurrier]

K341 Governor Gear:
This engine has the nylon governor gear. We've done oil, taillights, manual lift rods -- what's the pros and cons between nylon and metal governor gears? On a side note, sitting where it does at the top of the engine it doesn't seem it would get much lubrication. Oh, wait a minute -- it would be lubed off the camshaft, wouldn't it?

David: I think Ron answered your 3:26 question at 1:38.

 

[dschwandt]

Thanks guys!!
There, that looks better!
Also repaced the front rag joint that was about shot while I was at it.

Dave S.

 

[sblunier]

Just finished converting my #2 tiller for use on my SGT with Cat 0...now tills 50" wide....

See thread in more "on topic" MTD section

 

[hydroharry]

David S - new fan looks nice and so does the rag joint assembly. I hope you used that big/heavy original C-clip on the fan shaft - otherwise it will certainly walk right into the lift linkage or other parts. I also noticed you alternated the direction of the nuts/bolts holding the rag joints and couplers. This is the way I've normally seen them as opposed to your first pic posted 11:10AM.

Frank C - as much as I don't usually like nylon gears, I guess one advantage may be - if it comes loose inside it won't likely put a window in the block, like some other gears are known for.

 

[nbartee]

Speaking of governors, when I was putting my M18 back together, someone suggested I stake the governor because that was a failing of that engine. I don't understand how that's done. Can someone explain this visually?

 

[bjamison]

Quick Question - Anyone one running chains year round on their IHCC's?

Reason I ask is the 109 with 4 link chains (I'd like to get a set of 2 link chains one of these days) is doing great with the chains.

My other quick question - I've read that chains over turf tires (like I have on my 109) are better than chains over ag tires. Anything to this?

Last quick question (for this post) - Did IH ever make a mechanical mechanism (vs hydro or electric) to enable one to angle the front blade from the driver's seat.

Bill R - since you haven't got snow yet, here is a pic of one of my Boys pushing a few inches of snow with the 109. We are really enjoying my 109, mowing, plowing snow or towing the trailer full of firewood. It's a gas sipper too...

I think Hydro Harry mentioned to me in a post that engines with the SG generally crank faster than the later integral starter motor type engines, like on my 1650, and that especially helps get a cold (winter cold) engine started quicker. What I know is the little 10 hp engine in this 109 started on this snowy day very easily.