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Archive through February 28, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Thanks for the good advice. I am dealing with a tractor that had been previously modified and just wanted to be sure the driveline was proper, I had only dealt with hydro's before.
 
Im new here and trying to take apart a 38 inch orginal deck. Im trying to take one of the ends off the spindal it is treaded and has a key in it any ideas thanks
 
Picked up a cub cadet 109 this past weekend. PO said it did not run. I have attached a picture of the head. Looks like it may be blown. Where should I start?? Can I throw a battery in it and see if it might fire or should I replace the head and look at rebuilding the carb? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance!!

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Terry Geirnaeirt

I would replace the head gasket and carbon the head combustion area and replace the leaking head gasket, might want to check the head to see if it is flat. some starting fluid will tell you if it will run.Lots of good info in the faq, keep us posted .
 
Yes Denny,CFS has been frequent parts run the last month...59 y.o. Farmall in my shop. crowding my Cub Cadets & $$ are not going \/. I got a cast pulley from F&F for my QA42A speed upgrade. F&F Stoton Rd. store addition changes have things in different parts of store. I guess I'll have to make more trips to get familar with the new changes.
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Allen Nixon,

Are you saying the both are for $400
If so I will be right there,you are about 3 hrs from me
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Glen-
If I'm understanding your question correctly, you're trying to take apart the spindle?

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If that's right, you take the nut off the top, remove the cogged pulley, grab the key stock with a pliers and pull it out, then drive the spindle shaft out the bottom of the spindle with a brass hammer or protect it with a piece of wood. (It may be easier to drive the shaft out of the spindle if you have the spindle housing mounted in the deck.)

Hope this helps. Keep the questions coming!
 
Home of the Plow Special

Art

Thanks for that info on the 38" deck spindle repair tear down. I have two here and did look at the parts break down to see how they come apart. Good to know.

I will be starting the 129 loader here soon to install power steering . Steve B has been a great help sending me pictures of his install.His pictures confirmed what I had come up with as the way I could do this mod. I`am so glad I found this site years ago to help me with my tractors, You Guys are the best !!!! I though about starting a thread on my install of the power steering on my 129 loader , but have to find out if Charlie has a spot for me to add that info
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First I will need to get the 129 out of storage and install the ported pump for the fluid supply. I hope to have snail mail today so I can drop the 12 k into the 125 and get it moving.The rear fenders can wait for now because I have a set of rear fenders to replace the broken ones on my 1512 and a 1961 Original to paint. I hope to paint them all at once if possible.
 
Keep us posted on your progress Don.

What does the lift bar for the 3 point on a 582 look like,besides it being red,does it have 2 bends on it or one?
 
Lewis Palma

Progress is slow waiting for mail man
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. I thought I had all the parts I needed .I will soon have a 125 that has been refurbished .

Looking at the power-steering fluid connectors is see 5 . I understand 4 , two lines from the rear end and two lines to the cylinder, 1 more
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This is what happens when I`am bored (G).
 
Lewis Palma
A 582 has what frame, like a 149 wf,I bet it has only one bend
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Don,

I am just repeating what I have read. The fifth port is for "power beyond". If you have a hydraulic lift or other hydraulic device running off of the same pump, then you plumb it off of this port. This would make sure that you always have power steering and the other device would only use capacity not needed for the steering.
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Ken Freeman
Thanks for that info. I do have a power beyond port on the controls for the loader . but I did not want to go that way. I would always have to have the pump running and share fluid. so I think if the power-steering was fed of the rear end I could disengage the pto for the loader.This will give the K lower rpms and a safe travel speed with a bucket load.I think i`am on the path I will be happy with,. I hope I do this correctly the first time.
 
Heres a PO mod that has "some" merit to it, the drive shaft and drive hub were worn so he pressed this ring on it to keep the pin from falling out. The ring was made of galvinized pipe that looks like fencing material

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Jeff Baker,

We did another "fix" for the drive hub. We did not have the issue of the pin falling out, but the slot in the hub had work alot. What we did was remove the drive hub, and had a new slot "machined" into the hub 90 degrees from the current slot, so we had an X in the drive hub, and we used the new slot......
 
I found this while working on a 104. I hope to get it up and running for backup mowing duty this year. This K241 was supposedly gone through a couple of years ago. There is no stamp on the piston and has a "click" at high and low travel.

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I was just going to get it running but I guess I ought to just tear it down since I'm this far and it shows the need. I think both front and rear seals were leaking as well. Nasty!

Also, I have a question. Are the three head bolts that also help mount the gas tank bracket suppose to be the same length? I thought they were but one was a bit shorter than the other two.

I don't think it was rebuilt two years ago.
 
Wayne Shytle
all the cubs I have don`t look like your post . that is a rebore to clean up a knock coming off wot,. it will be worth your wile for you to get that cylinder fixed.
 
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