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Archive through February 21, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Gary C.
Take the PTO off and run it just to completely rule it out.
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i know a few of you guys have restored originals what do you think is the best way to prep the rear ends for paint? i dont want to sandblast
 
When I redid my 100, I used paint stripper and then wire-wheeled off the rest. I couldn't get much of that red epoxy stuff off. I took off the rear cover plate and the axles and cleaned them in my electrolysis tank.
 
Guys had a noise in a tractor here (149) so I took the belt off the pto and engaged it and no noise.Seems when its engaged there can`t be a noise (knock). found one of the springs broke when I took it apart (PTO). Piston slap will happen at idle or just returning to idle from wot.If you remove the PTO as Charlie said you can rule the pto out. later Don T
 
Matt:
Where was the "red epoxy stuff" on the 100?/ I'm curious because a)I don't think they were using epoxy paint in the 60's and b) I was wondering if you were talking about the red Glyptal that they used to seal the cast iron inside the differential....
 
Talkin rod knock noise in a motor, I had a 12 hp this summer that i rebuilt turned out to a front motor bearing.
 
Good Advice. I'll pull the clutch next weekend. I should have some clips somewhere in a box, Half my time will be looking for them. Let you know more later.
Thanks Gary
 
Matt:
If it's the glyptal, you wouldn't want to take it off the inside - was it on the outside also? BTW - check out the background - the stuff is really tough - originally developed by GE for insulating HV equipment - engine builders used to paint the the lifter galley area of engines to supposedly promote faster drainback of oil to the pan. IH used it to seal the sand castings, as the conventional wisdom is that sand cast parts never lose all of the sand, the paint seals it in FOREVER..
 
I didn't even bother trying to get it off of the inside, just the outside...I wasn't able to remove much of it from the outside.
 

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