• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through December 21, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
International Harvestor Corporation


? I see that on some of my weights also and always thought it was what I wrote above.
 
Harry,

we have several of those type wheel weights on our farm. They will fit Farmall A, B & C's and the Farmall Cub.
 
So I gotta ask ya Harry,
Here's that exact pic posted to the web on another site Dec 22, 2015 7:59 pm, Hmmmm
301061.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 301061.jpg
    301061.jpg
    63.1 KB
  • 301061.jpg
    301061.jpg
    63.1 KB
Doug B. on the muriatic acid question, I had a 16 HP engine that through a rod. Same problem had a layer of rod material built up on the journal. I searched the internet and saw where muriatic acid would take it off, also saw all the safety warnings. So I bought a jug of acid and followed all the instructions. Good news it took off the rod material, I did this in my shop, bad new anything steel based within 10-15 feet from the bench started rusting within 2 days. I found I could not leave the jug in the shop even though it was sealed. I finally had to put the jug inside of a 5 gallon bucket (plastic like you get at a hardware store) seal it and set it outside where these was plenty of air movement. The worst thing was trying to stop the rusting problem around my bench. If I had to do it again I would not. I had to work on the crank several times with emery cloth to get the rust back off even after coating it with grease. Either the acid or fumes get into the metal and attack it. Just my 2 cents.
 
Ok, so im working on a CW-36 snow thrower getting ready to change the rotor bearings. I have it removed from the housing and the bearings off on the left side. The right side there is a bracket welded on for the chains shear pin. Do you usually cut that bracket off then re-weld it or try to remove the shaft from the rotor ? I think both methods are going to be a pain in the butt but it has to be done this year before the snow flies if it ever does. Im going to use a torch tomorrow morning I guess to try an remove the shaft from the rotor,if that doesnt work then I guess I will cut the bracket off an have it re-welded. Anyone else ever had this problem ?
 
Amy K.
I can't for the life of me remember any bracket that might have to be removed.
So I don't have to go outside tonight and look, do ya have a pic handy?
 
The bracket is on the shaft behind the drive gear, Its for the shear pin I think ? But on mine ots actually welded on the shaft...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top