Archive through February 18, 2013

[dtanner]

Denny

Well I thought your PSD had a standard trans and mine is an auto. I think I could out pull you because I have an auto and well like a HYDRO I all ways have the correct torque .A drag like Oxen use would be the way to go. They had 4x4 pulls at the local Exhibition and I entered that . I made such a fool of the high hp gas trucks that they would not let diesel trucks compete with them. While they would bounce and spin and make all kinds of noise . I just drove away with the drag . May bee what dug them the most was all most stopping and waving a few times and then doing a full pull.

On my 125 problem ,I have decided to pull the flywheel and check the key and then install another governor gear a metal one this time.Tomorrow I will start that and hope to have it running again soon.

talked to my welder to repair my 450 snow blower. I need the shaft from the gear box to the spline on the second impeller repaired. We are going to weld a slip joint in and give it a test.The spline is in bad shape and stupid me in-gauged the pto for the blower at to high an rpm and tore up the splines.I think instead of buying all new parts I will try this first. Might save me a bunch a $$$$

 

[pbell]

It's OK Tom, even I have a couple of hydros. I don't use them for anything thing, but I have them.

 

[bjames]

Which is the correct spacer for the headlights on an Original?

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/802fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/937fp.htm

 

[jchamberlin]

Bill: I think the second listing described as being for Cub or Lo-Boy is the right one since MTD Parts Lookup lists Item 14 P/N IH-365503-R1 Spacer, Headlight

Your link identifies it as being for the rear light, incorrectly, I think.

Others may qualify or correct me.

 

[digger]

Bill J.
The 9/16" tall ones are correct.

 

[bjames]

Thank you Jeremiah, I didn't think the lighting parts were listed anymore.
I think that same spacer was used on some rear lights for the Cub and/or Cub Lo-Boy.

Charlie, It looks like IH-365503-R1 is 3/8" tall?
Maybe it doesn't matter?

 

[digger]

Bill J.
Use what ya want, it's your tractor.
You asked what was correct and I told ya!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Or you can make your own spacers out of bushings for a trailer hitch ball like I did for my Original. Click here ---> SPACERS and scroll about 3/4 of the way down the page.

 

[bjames]

OK, thank you. I guess I can use different size washers stacked with a a little JB weld to get what I need.

 

[hydroharry]

Tom H (and Paul B) - It's OK Tom, even I "had" a couple of gear grinders. I didn't use them for anything, so I just got rid of 'em.

(Paul- you aren't one to be a jokester very often. Always liked your equal number of take offs and landings).

Bill J - ok now, lets be using the right parts as much as possible. "Will fit" parts are ok as long as they are original IH. Charlie has the "Correct Parts" which is even better. Making your own like Kraig suggested, well now, that's like going out on a limb and the Correct Police will be coming at ya with a saw. Better at least make sure you paint'm correct color.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bill,

 

[mhomrighausen]

Just some thoughts on comparing big tractor or garden tractor gear versus hydro when doing field work of any kind. Many years ago a farmer around the Tipton, Iowa area had a hydro 656 that he mounted a 234 cornpicker on it. He personally told me that no matter how cold or warm the day was that after so long of running the hydro's oil would get too warm and he would have to reduce speed on the tractor thus slowling down his picking speed. Now I'm not knocking anyone's thoughts here however I've actually been around a lot of farmers that said the same thing about even the bigger hydro IH tractors. Consider the drawbar pulling power on a hydro versus a gear drive and you will see significant loss due to the hydro. Sure you could pull the same size plow/disc or ??? but that hydro does heat up. Remember the garden tractor plow days where someone said the gear drives could keep on plowing whereas after a couple of rounds the hydros oil got too warm? So how exactly are two different tractors a.k.a. gear 128 versus a 149 hydro going to compete on a warm or cold day of plowing? On the cold day the hydro will be able to hang in there longer only after awhile that oil will warm up just like the farmer's hydro 656 with cornpicker.

Just some thoughts... like usual... BTDT...

<font size="-2">I know now that I should have never hung around implement dealers and farmers those oh-so many years ago. I actually learned some things from them that maybe I shouldn't have. Oh well... Too late now.</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, I painted my home made spacers close to the correct color. It's a worker and isn't meant to be correct. I figure as long as my cat approves, it's good enough.

 

[tmcilvain]

Thanks Guys, (Bill T., Terry D., Wayne S.,Harry B.)
Indeed did find a nice one. Machine Shop should call yet this week with info on what parts to order. I've been thinking about going with a metal governor gear if I can find one. This little K321 isn't in too bad shape. Any reccomendations on the advertisers above for parts? I'll be going with new piston/rings/rod, and obviously need the seals all the way around. Reshafting and bushing the carb, too. And "yes" to sealing up my underseat leaks.

 

[bjames]

Kraig, You may have mice living in that "worker".

 

[mfrade]

Don T., not sure what the status of the motor is right now but, did you ever check compression once it started acting up?

I believe you had posted a video of it running, correct?

If this was a running motor, and then failed to re-start at a later date. Check the basics first, one of the most basic components for combustion in the engine is compression. Without it, there's no explosion for the suck bang boom spit cycle.

It is possible a valve isn't closed tightly...

 

[mgerecke]

What is the trick to setting valve clearance on my K321 in my 149? I am there now trying to set the lash at what I think is TDC. it is marked on the flywheel in the window. I rotated the engine backwards to dis-engage the compression release. There is lash on the intake valve, but none on the exhaust. Am I doing something wrong?
This all stems back to my hard start on this engine.

 

[bjames]

I thought Don T said it started and ran good at idle but would die when he reved it up. Why would he need to tear down the engine again?

 

[dcalkins]

Hydro Harry ,thank you for the kind words.i try

 

[dcalkins]

Mark G ,you may have went too far ,the c/r will stay open from .030 to .043 till you reach 600 rpm.if you roll the engine real slow with the valve cover off ,you know that already .you should see the exhust valve close ,then do your feeler thing ..017to .019.hope this helps