Archive through February 17, 2013

[kostendorf]

Gerry, thanks for your help. I won't know if it runs till I get it back in the tractor. Waiting for the oil pans I bought.
Donald, I hope you figure out your problem and thank you for helping me out several times.One of these days we'll all be experts with these cubs and won't want to work on them any more... That's not gonna happen

 

[dtanner]

Gerry Ide

you state (to make sure that the flywheel key isn't partially sheared or for some other reason the keyway in the flywheel doesn't line up with the one in the crank...)

I`am lost as to what to do next so I will pull the flywheel to see if the key is in good shape. That could be it and I have to agree it could be the issue. WHY oh Why did I have this problem on my third rebuild of a Cub engine. Listen to Charlie and they are so simple you only need a match book cover .

 

[dtanner]

Keith Ostendorf

I never want to be expert ; then I will be like Hydro Harry who all Ways NEEDS TO BE CORRECT to be the

. For me IT needs to work first and work better that the competition! Not hard for a Cub lol. They are just build better than most. That is what I like about them.

 

[dcalkins]

Jonathan ,first you need too know how much end play you have with out,the shim .once you know that ,you need from .005 to .010 clearance .and i make my rod from bronze ,hope this helps .

 

[jsalatino]

David...Ok I understand what your sayin as far as the shims go. I still have time b4 I get to putting the motor back together,I was thinking I would go ahead and order some along with a few other misc parts so I have them when the time comes. As far as the points rod , is there any advantage to using bronze? Maybe i read you had to switch to a steel rod if you plan on running those accel chevy points.I'm using oem points so it really doesnt matter. thanks for the info

 

[tbdavis]

Question: looked at a set of duals over the weekend that had very heavy cast extensions (ONE piece I believe) and could not identify them as to make. They appear to have been factory made as they had carved out areas for maybe valve stems. Seller had no idea what they were off of and I definitely don't. Any ideas?

 

[bjamison]

Keith O - I bought a cast iron oil pan for my QL engine for one reason - harder for me to strip the threads. I've got a spare with my 122 acquisition and will use it on my 109's engine one of these days too.

 

[aaytay]

Sorry guys, it looks like I screwed up the last time I posted the 169 data. (Didn't realize it was scrolled down when I did the screen capture) Doh!

Anyway, here is the COMPLETE data-base as it currently stands...

I've withheld the owner's names to protect the innocent, but here's an interesting factoid. The list does not yet include data from any of the moderator's own 169s.

 

[sblunier]

I do miss my gear drive 582, what a fun machine......but, let me make my hydro and gear drive comparison from this morning another way......

Put a 14hp 149 and a 12hp 128 in the same field, both pulling 10" plows 6" deep. These are identical tractors for almost all purposes except hp and hydro/gear. This makes the assumption that the 14 HP hydro uses up at least 2 extra HP to operate at the same performance level of the 12 HP 128 (and drinks the extra gas as well).

At the end of the day I would bet that the 149 has plowed more ground on less gallons of fuel per acre than the 128......because it could work to it's potential all day. I might even go as far as to say that a 129 would do the same or better than the GD even with the hydro "loss"......because we add acres (production) to the equation. If the hydro can average even 1/2 mph faster, the production part of the equation adds up quickly.

This is the same point Denny was making earlier about the bigger IH tractors....give them the speeds (variable and/or stepped) they need to work to their potential......high 1st with the stick ahead, for everything but that hard spot, where the stick comes back........hydros let GT's play this same game.......making them more productive than their GD brothers even though they aren't as efficient.

Before I catch a lot of flak on this, I am not saying this holds true with a 1086 and a 186 hydro....I'm comparing GT's, where the balance of speed and traction is a fine line, where your butt cheek position on the fender makes the difference between pulling through or spinning out, and where the gears aren't stepped/spaced tightly for tillage work.....you're stuck with 1st, 2nd, or hydro.....butt on the seat or on the fender.....and where little differences in slippage, speed, weight distribution, etc. make HUGE performance differences.

That said, I have not tried this little test.....but it would be fun for someone to prove (or disprove....I've been wrong before) the results at a PD!!!!!

Denny,

 

[dcalkins]

Jonathan ,i make my own shims ouit out of stainless steel,because i fit my cams ,and machine the thrust faces,because they are not true ,and lap the thrust faces of the inside of the block ,as they are not true either ,so this is why i make my own shims .as far as the bronze goes ,i have had no problems with the bronze .hope this helps.