Archive through February 15, 2011

[mfrade]

Wayne S., I like to loc-tite the heli-coils just below the surface. I like to use the green loc-tite for this, aka retaining compound.

 

[sblunier]

Tim P.

Have you pulled the engine bolts and slid the engine forward a few inches? This gets you the end-end clearance to pull the driveshaft.

Also, you need to remove the spirol pin from the rear drive coupler.

 

[tpennell]

Steve, no but I will. Going to take the engine out for a wipedown anyway. Thanks a bunch I really appreciate it.

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Mike-

That makes sense. If I ran the insert all the way then I'd be gambling somewhat on thread contact. I was wondering about using locktite too so thanks there.

Dale M.-

That's a nice looking 100 with the hydraulics and the somewhat rare implement. Have you ever used the roller doing yard work? I'd like to see how well they work. You have some massive wheel weights working there too. Very nice set-up.

 

[wmakowicki]

Heli coil insert, I do Navy Nuclear work the Mil Spec is 1-1/2 threads bellow the surface. We have "inspectors" for LOL and yes if it is to deep, or shallow its a rework. Loctite is good, if you use the tang type make sure you remove it when installed. Heli Coils do come in different lengths so you might want to go with the longest you can get with the thread you have. They work very good

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Wayne M-

Interesting information. I've heard nothing but good things about the way they work. It's a good thing no "inspectors" come around here.

 

[rtempleton]

Thanks Charlie and Dale for the information. Wish we had the seed box that sits on top of the rolling basket. My dad bought the roller blade at an auction about 10 years ago for a dollar. the only thing wrong with it is that the adjustment screw was froze up and didnt work. The paint is missing cause I think it was in a fire and just set outside the rest of its life. We used it several times for many landscaping jobs and it works really good. Thanks again guys

 

[digger]

Roy T.
Any old style push fertilizer spreader cam be made to work on your Viking.
Look at the pics and you will see that's all it is.

 

[thoffman]

Visited some

"Hallowed Ground"

today. See pix in the Sandbox under "Base of Operations"

 

[dtanner]

Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"
Just had to do some looking at the paint and the primer I used and I think the primer was my problem. Can the wrong type primer do what I had happen to my paint.What made me think of the primer is the problem because I used a different brand on my one wheel for the 100, and that wheel turned out pretty good. Thanks Don T

 

[thoffman]

I don't think the brand of primer is/was the problem. Different materials have different characteristics.

 

[jchamberlin]

Call it the price of admission:

I can now post legitimately in the IH Forum because I am the proud new (to me) owner of an IH Cub Cadet Model 149. I just brought it home -- haven't even lifted the SN off it yet (but it is on the left side of the rear axle housing).

The tractor runs, and it comes with a sleeve hitch. Seller never used the brakes to stop it, and for some reason the hydrostatic acts a bit jerky -- I wonder why?

It has some company too. (2) Decks (at least one of which is 44"), (2) matching mule drives, (1) QA42 snow thrower, and (1) Home-made spring-loaded front blade (which mounts to the rear axle and has an adapter on the front).

Picture of truck loaded with the seller (who lives 3 hrs from me):

Picture of truck loaded with the buyer (me):

If you need me, you'll know where to find me, that's right IN THE DOG HOUSE!

See you in two weeks!

Now, to edit my profile

 

[fcurrier]

J.C.: 2 weeks in the doghouse? Congrats on the 149 - that's one that it's hard to go wrong on. The jerkiness probably indicates need of a trunnion repair - but at least you know it runs and moves!

 

[digger]

Jeremiah C.
Cool! But we need more pics when you get it unloaded!
Before you get to carried away fixin stuff, do this,
How do I adjust my hydro to find neutral again?

 

[sblunier]

Anybody ever try or currently use "Meg-Mow" disks/blades on their Cub Cadet decks???

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE, WAYNE, & MIKE - My old 129 w/K301 was kinda a basket case when I bought it, 2 or 3 of the engine mount holes were stripped. I Heli-coiled them back to stock size, 3/8" NC and used the short 1/2" long inserts included in the kit I bought. Think I only had the engine out 3 more times after that before I sold it and the threads were almost gone. I'd use longer inserts or find a different oil pan, preferrably cast iron. I put the inserts in shallow, 1-2 threads down.

Lots of the machine shops I've dealt with used another brand or type of thread repair insert because they all said they had much better luck with them but the brand name escapes me right now.

 

[jdeshazo]

dennis frisk
i just had some installed at a machine shop last fall they called them kingserts (dont quote me on the spelling) so far there holding, they looked a lot beefier than heli-coils

 

[kmcconaughey]

I do NOT have a dog in this hunt but thought I'd throw this out there...

Regarding Heli-Coil inserts. From the founder of this forum:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Bob Necker - The "Right Reverend Robert" - Savior of Cub Cadet 'Originals' in Big Sky Country - Montana USA (Bnecker) on Wednesday, October 13, 1999 - 01:04 pm:

Jim, Steve,D Roberts-
Well here goes the nitpicking and what not again.
Heli-Coil® inserts are a low end thread replacement (read junk).
Use TIME-SERT® inserts and you'll throw away the Heli-Coil® inserts. After you have wallowed out a Heli-Coil® you can still salvage the part with TIME-SERT® inserts. This comes from personal experience though so take it for what it is worth. (BIG-SERT® also has a much cooler website ! ! ) I've had these inserts in the plug holes of my 1971 Shovelhead for more than 10 years now without an iota of trouble. Heli-Coil® inserts would never last a season.

Heli-Coil® inserts are screw thread coils of stainless steel wire having a diamond shaped cross section.

BIG-SERT® IS A HEAVY WALL SOLID BUSHING.
EASY TO INSTALL WITH POSITIVE PLACEMENT.
BIG-SERT® GIVES INCREASED LOAD PROTECTION
FOR CRITICAL USE.
BIG-SERT® WILL REPAIR OVERSIZE HOLES WHICH
HAVE PREVIOUSLY BEEN REPAIRED.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Heli-Coil®

BIG-SERT®

Time-Sert

 

[ccarney]

For military use at my previous job, they used Keen-Serts, which look like Kraig's (BobN's) reference to Big-Serts. Keen serts use 4 pegs 90 degrees apart that are driven in after the insert is placed. It could be Keen-Serts that Josh is referring to.

 

[digger]

Josh D.
I've used Keenserts for years with great luck.