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Archive through February 10, 2013
- Thread starter jbaker
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jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Daniel: I hadn't thought of that, thanks.
Bill: Never mind.
Bill: Never mind.
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- Binder 1650
Here's a few pics of the 126 work from last night:
New parts within the engine:
Aluminum galled crank:
The engine bottom, oil pan and inside frame rails were CAKED with oil/dirt/dust crud.
New parts within the engine:
Aluminum galled crank:
The engine bottom, oil pan and inside frame rails were CAKED with oil/dirt/dust crud.
SCOTT T. - Yep, I suspect there's quite a few small F/W 14 HP Kohlers around. And somewhere there's a 129 with a large F/W 12 HP I may know something about.
Those smaller F/W's do nice things to a K321.... The larger F/W's on the K301's... Not so much. The run fine, pull good, just don't accelerate very fast.
Those smaller F/W's do nice things to a K321.... The larger F/W's on the K301's... Not so much. The run fine, pull good, just don't accelerate very fast.
Bill J
What is the spec number of the engine?
Looking through a Kohler Master parts Listing (last updated in 1988) I count at least 46 different Spec numbers for the K301 12 hp engine with balance gears, so yes, some 12 hp had them. I have 2 engines from 126's, both with balance gears, both have the oil dipstick in the cam cover, and a what looks like a dipstick on the right side. That one on the right is short and that tube is used for putting oil in the engine. Spec number for one of the engines is on a damsged foil decal but appears to be 47504. The other engine has a metal data plate and the Spec number is 4759B. Spec number 47376 according to my notes was also used in Cub Cadets and it also has balance gears. There may be others. If you look at the parts listings you will see two different part numbers for the dipsticks and the cam covers (above and below serial number 851368 and 351869). The long dipstick we normally see on the right side of the engine cannot be used in engines with balance gears, and that is the reason for the short dipstick in the cam cover and the short stick in the oil fill tube on the right side. That short stick is just a "stopper" for the fill tube.
What is the spec number of the engine?
Looking through a Kohler Master parts Listing (last updated in 1988) I count at least 46 different Spec numbers for the K301 12 hp engine with balance gears, so yes, some 12 hp had them. I have 2 engines from 126's, both with balance gears, both have the oil dipstick in the cam cover, and a what looks like a dipstick on the right side. That one on the right is short and that tube is used for putting oil in the engine. Spec number for one of the engines is on a damsged foil decal but appears to be 47504. The other engine has a metal data plate and the Spec number is 4759B. Spec number 47376 according to my notes was also used in Cub Cadets and it also has balance gears. There may be others. If you look at the parts listings you will see two different part numbers for the dipsticks and the cam covers (above and below serial number 851368 and 351869). The long dipstick we normally see on the right side of the engine cannot be used in engines with balance gears, and that is the reason for the short dipstick in the cam cover and the short stick in the oil fill tube on the right side. That short stick is just a "stopper" for the fill tube.
proessler
Well-known member
Jeff, both 42" & 54" blade could have hydraulic angling kit added. The 54" blade really helps plowing snow & the hyd. angling is the cat's meow.
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Paul B - here is the engine tag with serial no info, etc.
The engine has a dipstick on the cam cover and the short stubby dipstick/cap on the long tube used for oil fill on the top of the engine.
The engine has a dipstick on the cam cover and the short stubby dipstick/cap on the long tube used for oil fill on the top of the engine.
Dad tried to put a 14 HP Kohler in his 125....I asked him how that worked (conventional 14 HP has a larger flywheel) and he told me 14 HP Piston and valves, but 12 HP flywheel. he also told me it didn't work for very long and blew apart, so he went back to a 12 HP internal.
DAN G. - Nothing's happened like that to my small F/W K321. Only thing I've noticed is it's harder to judge when the engine is pulling hard on tall grass and I burn up the mule drive belts on my 38" mower a WHOLE lot sooner compared to the K241 I had in that tractor before. I've got around 200 hours on that engine and it still runs like a striped APE. I used to get 5-6+ yrs on a mule drive belt with the K241 and now I get a year, maybe two yrs. Been so dry the last two summers that I only mow small areas of the yard lots of times.
My engine was out of a 147, and has the small F/W , blower housing, & backing plate from a K301. Same big valves & #30 carb off the K321.
I asked DON VOGT about building the engine like that when I bought the complete engine for rebuild from him. Only thing he cautioned me on was, "Don't mow foot tall grass in 3rd gear on a 90 degree day with it...." I will say that it pulls my lawn vac MUCH better than the old K241 ever thought of doing.
My engine was out of a 147, and has the small F/W , blower housing, & backing plate from a K301. Same big valves & #30 carb off the K321.
I asked DON VOGT about building the engine like that when I bought the complete engine for rebuild from him. Only thing he cautioned me on was, "Don't mow foot tall grass in 3rd gear on a 90 degree day with it...." I will say that it pulls my lawn vac MUCH better than the old K241 ever thought of doing.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Scott Nicklas - "Hold Your Horses" - that info from Don T and Jeremiah doesn't apply to your 1450. They had to be thinking you have a screw type fuel shutoff. Your 1450 should have either a push/pull or a 90degree turn shut off mounted into your plastic gas tank. Sometimes the leak is just the grommet with the shutoff fits. I don't know if I'd fool around trying to figure out which is may be - it sounds like the shutoff valve itself the way you describe it, but just don't know. I believe CC Specialties, or the other sponsors will have the complete assembly and fix you right up.
I saw the same thing Harry did. It sound to me that the plastic shut off the goes into the plastic tank is-a-wollowing around. I'm sure there is a "fix" for that, but the backing out the nut on the valve assmby isn't it.
hydroharry
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Jeff - I have not seen a 54" blade for sale in a long time either. In fact, when I lived in CT it took me about 10 years to even find one. So, are they rare? I have to think so, at least in CT. And as Paul noted, you can add a hydro angle kit to either a 42 or 54 (IH blade) since the only difference is the length of the blade itself. Now, for what it's worth, a 54 blade is probably nice for snow, but I think it's a bit to much blade for an average tractor to do any dozing work.
yep I missed the 1450 part of the question . Sorry for my error. On another note I have a 54" IH snow blade here that has the lift pin the same as my other two 42" blades. I do have power angle attached to the 42" blade and would like to try out the 54" blade some day.I don`t like how the snow falls under the tractor using the 42" and I think the 54" would keep the snow father from the rear wheels weights. The 54" came off a 1862 and won`t turn with out the back edge cutting deeper. So I need to mess with the sub frame some to get it to sit where it can be angled and stay flat on the ground. Now that blade is in one of my Cub sheds buried under sub frames for all my other Cubs. I need to move some parts around this spring so I can locate all with out the big pile I have now.
hydroharry
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Don T - well it sounds like a 54 blade is quite rare for you as well - at least you currently remember it's buried in the back of the shed. When you do look and don't find it, well then it's probably buried someplace else and no one will know. If you happen to find you shed door open unexpectedly, well I'd guess someone else un-buried your 54.
Now, about that turning the blade and having the back edge cutting deeper - if I understand you correctly you're talking about the blade being higher in the front direction it's turned, and lower in the rear direction. I always noticed that myself when the blade was raised, but when lowered (dropped) to full down mine would level itself. I never quite understood why it would do that. I don't see how the sub-frame would cause that either. Hoping someone on here can explain.
Now, about that turning the blade and having the back edge cutting deeper - if I understand you correctly you're talking about the blade being higher in the front direction it's turned, and lower in the rear direction. I always noticed that myself when the blade was raised, but when lowered (dropped) to full down mine would level itself. I never quite understood why it would do that. I don't see how the sub-frame would cause that either. Hoping someone on here can explain.
Good evening all. Have a question regarding the brake shaft (brake support rod?) on my 147. It appears to have a pretty good size wear spot which is concave shaped and maybe a quarter inch deep or so. Is this normal (my 127 has the same concave wear spot) or is it time to light the welder up and fill? Thanks
Hydro Harry
I`am a bit surprised that you don`t know why the blade does that.The blade is made so all the angles match. If one would lift back from the pivot point of the blade where it attaches to the sub frame the blade would dig in when pivoted at full angle in either direction on the front tip.If that attachment point was dropped the blade would dig in the ground at the back of the angle and the blade tip would dig in and the front of the blade would be off the ground. This measurement angle does not affect the blade if it is set straight across the tractor ; because that would only affect the angle of the cutting tip to the top of the blade. I Need to measure the depth from the ground to find the height that the blade must sit so when it is rotated it will remain level.The blade when attached to my 149 using a 149 sub frame made the blade tip back . so I need to raise the attachment point of the sub frame to the blade and then it will correct to a neutral angle that the blade was designed for.
I hope you can standunder my explamation lol
I hate doing this because I can`t put my thoughts out like you and Denny.
I`am a bit surprised that you don`t know why the blade does that.The blade is made so all the angles match. If one would lift back from the pivot point of the blade where it attaches to the sub frame the blade would dig in when pivoted at full angle in either direction on the front tip.If that attachment point was dropped the blade would dig in the ground at the back of the angle and the blade tip would dig in and the front of the blade would be off the ground. This measurement angle does not affect the blade if it is set straight across the tractor ; because that would only affect the angle of the cutting tip to the top of the blade. I Need to measure the depth from the ground to find the height that the blade must sit so when it is rotated it will remain level.The blade when attached to my 149 using a 149 sub frame made the blade tip back . so I need to raise the attachment point of the sub frame to the blade and then it will correct to a neutral angle that the blade was designed for.
I hope you can standunder my explamation lol
I hate doing this because I can`t put my thoughts out like you and Denny.
Terry Davis
Is the wear area where the brake rod attaches to the hydro plate. is there a stud on both sides that fit between the trunion plates???? I welded mine on both side and made it round with a flat file . I found it would not work as it should till I got that back to spec. when those end were out of round it would jam and not work smooth and was a bugger to get everything working as per the manual.
Is the wear area where the brake rod attaches to the hydro plate. is there a stud on both sides that fit between the trunion plates???? I welded mine on both side and made it round with a flat file . I found it would not work as it should till I got that back to spec. when those end were out of round it would jam and not work smooth and was a bugger to get everything working as per the manual.
