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Archive through February 05, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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hey got a couple questions here
first off im replacing the head gasket on a 70 with the kohler k161 and i need the torque specs for the head bolts.
secondly ive been having a problem with my 100. thirds gears barely grabs and i can never take off or push pull in third gear but as soon as i go to 2nd it would pull normally but started slipping some today
 
Michael, sounds like you have a clutch issue. Have you tried adjusting it? If the adjustment is good, I would look closely at the clutch assy. Broken clutch spring/teaser spring ?
 
**Matt and Nick
I hope that's all there is to it. I'm letting the rear-end drain for a day then I'll pull and replace the filter. I'm waiting for my dealer to get me the gasket before I can button it all up and test it out. I had a thought tho. Should I run a gallon of clean fluid through the hydro and then drain it again? I could use RTV or similar to seal the rear-end cover plate. Would it hurt to run the hydro and rear-end for a limited time (5 min) only half full? I can't think of any other way to clean it out.

**William
When you say "Turned out to be the yoke on the front of the tranny" what do you mean? was it busted, bent, miss-adjusted, or what? Did you have to replace it?

thanks again

-everett
 
Mark H, got tri ribs on my 106 they work great. I bought the tractor new finely wore out the original tires .
 
James MC, just measured the disk on a new kit 3/16" is the size of the one i have. Do you have a pick of the clutch pully ,that might help.
 
Dave L:

Does anybody know why the kohler sevice manual specifies a .035 plug gap,but the IH Cub Cadet operators manual says .025? (109-149 models)

Thanks
Dave from the frozen north.


I have always been under the impression that:

.025 was for ignition systems with Magneto's.
.035 was for ignition systems with a Battery

The battery has the extra voltage to charge the ignition coil, which can handle a wider gap.


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Everett D.-

I'm guessing that your problem isn't related to the driveshaft coupler, as the one on a 782 is a bit different than your 982. If I remember correctly, the 982 trans input shaft is splined, and on a 782, it is just a round shaft. The couplers on the 782s tend to get worn and then they wobble on the shaft and vibrate. I don't know if the 982 uses the spherical ball bushings in the driveshaft coupler like the standard-frame GTs do, but if it does, I'd check to see if the rear one is broken. They usually are at this age.
 
Roland Bedell
I think you are correct.That is what it states in the Kohler manual,but the operators manual doesn't make that distinction.It just states gap to .025. Most of the tractors covered by this manual would have been battery ignition.
Thanks for the response.
 
MICHAEL R. - On Your 100, sounds like You have shift fork problems and are not getting the transmission shifted all the way into 3rd gear. You need to remove the seat base, Fenders if You have them, and the six capscrews that hold the shift lever into the top of the tranmission. Back a few days ago Kraig posted a pic of what the tranmission should look like. Problem could be wear, something broken, maybe a shift fork bent or coming loose from the shift rail.
 
Another day, another lesson. My thanks, also. Now if I could just find that darned mower deck that I misplaced... Have a great weekend, everyone!
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Just a quick ?... I have a 122... Spindles from a 125 should fit, right?
 
Michael R. - Head torque on a K161/181 engine is 15-20 ft pounds. There's a specific order to tighten them too.....I always do them in 2-3 steps too, 5, then 10, then 15-18#/ft.

If You do a search there's a link to a free download of the Kohler manuals for the K-series. It's 142 MB so it may take a while but WELL worth it. It even confirms I've been setting plug gap incorrectly on My K-series engines for something like 30+ yrs.
 
Everett D,

I had a similar problem on my #2 782 when I bought it. The PO had never changed the Hytran and it there was quite a bit of gel globs in the tranny gearbox. I put new Hytran and filter on and it still didn't improve and just got worse until it wouldn't move at all so I figured the charge pump must be the problem. I decided to replace the hydro pump with another used one I got. When I removed the pump and was looking at the lower siphon tube I discovered that there was a bunch of geletin build up on the inside of it. Cleaned it out by pulling a rag on a wire through it, followed by solvent and installed the other pump and that fixed it. I've always wondered if the original pump would work now that the tube is clean? So while you have the tranny opened up and the fluid out, pull the siphon tube out and make sure it's clean and doesn't have any blockage as well.

Also, original IH Hytran had a dark bluish hue with a just a touch of red in it but the new Hytran Ultra I've gotten from my local CaseIH dealer has a more redish hue with a touch of blue in its color.
 
Just pulled the plug from the 149 with 23 hrs on the clock. have changed the oil 2 times.What do you all think of the colour of the plug. i think its still to rick? should it burn cleaner ( hotter)?.
114358.jpg
 
Don-
I'm no engine expert, but that looks good to me. I always like to error on the side of burning slightly too rich so as not to scorch a piston.

Ugly things happen with too much heat...
lazerburn.gif
 
Thanks Art.. I set the 14 K rich for break in.I have moved a lot of snow so far and it ain`t over yet.the plug was abot 32 so i adjusted it. Tahns again Later Don T
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Everett, Matt G. is right if the yoke on yours is splined. The yoke on my 782 was worn and didn't fit snug on the input shaft. I replaced it with a new one and that fixed the vibration problem.
William
 
DON T. - I agree with Art's opinion too. Running when it's cold out pushing snow it's tough to get a real good read on them because the engines run so much colder than in the summer. If the engine runs good and "Spunky" and isn't puffing black or blue smoke I think Your in good shape.
 
could any one please tell me the frame width from an IH 70 and 100. my IH 71 is a completely diffrent model.....up front where the mower-mount bracket fastens to the tractor's frame,outside of frame over to the otherside {outside to outside} measures 10 and 9/16. on my IH push-blade,inside to inside of sub-frame measures 10 and 1/16. now i'am talking a 1/2 inch spread here, i,am not cool with that. as it will be too far of a spread to mount the main frame....but i do have some nice steel for a nice set of extension braces. i guess i'am a little "up-tight" right now. even the u-bolt for the lift bracket is too short...the 71 lifthandel is night and day compared with the 70 and 100. i'am wondering if i have a IH push-blade for the 70 and 100. also....why is my lift bracket J-shaped at the bottom? is it to be that the plow sub-frame is to fit in there and if so do i need a spacer to go between the inside of lift-bracket and the rod-bracket...as it looks like the lift-bracket may rub on the rod-bracket mounting bolts. also is there any specific IH push blade for my 71,70,100, and the original? i absolutely hate not being able to do things the correct way. i feel that the mower mount bracket is too weak, so i,am not going that rout.
 
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