Archive through February 05, 2009

[jhanes]

Was wanting to know if the clutch/driveline from my 100 rolling chassis would fit on my 71 that needs some clutch repairs. Just need to swap so I could plow any snow that may fall before spring.--Also any suugestions of how to get the roll pins out?
Thanks, John

 

[jsdavis]

John Charles Lazar
10 11/16 or 1/16 shy of 10 3/4

 

[dzubrzycki]

Can anyone tell me how To Decphier This serial # 2050038u326080? I think it is a 1970 going by my kohler book and my engine serial number . I know when i Tore in it today wow The carb bowl looked like tar the fuel float is Black the needle and seat are froze an blue colord My gas tank is all rust was varnish i had gum out carb cleaner soaking in the tank i left the line hooked up to i hope that will help free up my needle an seat. any suggestions on that? I couldent get spark to it today I jerry rigged a jumper wire an 12v wire to a coil i new was good Nothing put it back on the donor tractor an it started and ran my brecker points are clean i think it was ground isse or maybe i should just re wire it

 

[aschumacher]

Daniel, a quick check in the FAQ,s area says ur tractor was born in late April 1962.

 

[mgonitzke]

Allen-

Umm, no, let's try January 1970...

An Original would not have a serial number with the kind code and stuff....

 

[kfreeman]

Daniel Z,
As Matt says, the last 6 digits of the serial number places it as constructed in 1/1970. Which makes it a narrow frame tractor. It could be a 73, 106, 107, 126, 127, 147. I suppose the first part of the serial number would define this but I am not sure how to read it.

 

[mbounds]

Allen S: Don't know where you get your informnation, but it does NOT match the Louisville Production records. Though they had them, IH kind/codes weren't found on the tractors prior to the 73-106/7 series!!

Daniel Z: The Louisville Productions records (courtesy of the famous and renowned "Louisville Legend", Mr Paul R. Bell) show that your serial number (326080) was produced during the latter part of January 1970 (You estimated that correctly). The 205 = the IH Kind code for Garden Tractor; the 0038 is the IH factory code for a Model 107; the U is the location of the factory- Louisville, KY, <u>U</u>SA.


Re the carb: you are gonna have to go to an automotive supply/parts store and get you a gallon bucket of Carb/Parts cleaner. They come with a dipping basket inside the bucket. Disassemble you carb, put all parts into the dipping basket and submerge into the cleaning solution and let it soak in that overnite. Then take a can of spray carb cleaner (I use the cheap stuff from Wal-Mart) and blow out/rinse the carb body and the other parts. Then using the new a Kohler Carb repair kit you just bought (from Cub Cadet or any small engine parts place) reassemble the Carburetor and adjust according to that Service Manual I recommended you get in an earlier post!! Don't forget to wear gloves!! That Carb cleaner will remove ALL the oils from the skin of your hands!! BTDT and didn't like it a'tall.

You will just have to use the wiring diagram in that same service manual and, with a multimeter (VOM), check every wire segment in the harness for continuity and voltage....Don't forget, there is a safety cut-out switch on the clutch/brake pedal arm....if it's working OK, the brake/clutch pedal must be fully depressed to crank the engine. But you'll see that in the wiring diagram in that Service Manual you just got for your tractor.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom.com

 

[glippert]

I finally got my rear weight bracket made my 782 with a snowthrower. I now have 160# hanging a foot behind me. That ought to add some traction.

 

[glippert]

Now it's back to work on the 1250. Son-in-law has the frame almost done. (All the yellow on top is just dust - it's actually nice shiny steel).

And here's my "bucket o' parts" ready for priming.

 

[kide]

Don T and all..
Not sure what part of the plug you're reading, but what you <u>should</u> be looking at is the porcelain insulator, not the threads or side electrode. The picture posted is kinda hard to read, but the porcelain looks pure white, which with 23 hours on it would make me a little nervous (too lean). Here's a good article on reading plugs, I think written by (or copied from) Gorden Jennings, one of the best motorcycle Tech writers around...