Mike P.
Do what you want, but the 129 has a manual lift and the 149 has hydraulic lift.
Do what you want, but the 129 has a manual lift and the 149 has hydraulic lift.
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Archive through December 31, 2010
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Happy new year everyone. Here's what happened to me a few days ago. While throwing some snow with my #2 149, she slowly stopped and died. I roasted the rod to the crank. Well, I just installed the K301 into it and within hours I was back running. I'm guessing what I did wrong was I installed the rod facing the wrong direction and it din't get oiled correctly. Live and learn. Now I have a K321 with a bad crank and rod. I haven't decided if I will try to fix it or just part it out. Just some advice from someone who learned the hard way, make sure the oil hole is facing the camshaft!
Mike Patterson, I have a 129 and I installed hydraulics onto it. Great machine and especially like it with hydraulics! It was a 149 2 days ago (see above) now it's just a 129 again.
Mike Patterson, I have a 129 and I installed hydraulics onto it. Great machine and especially like it with hydraulics! It was a 149 2 days ago (see above) now it's just a 129 again.
lpalma
Well-known member
Richard,
I think the only teens in FLA are the ones going on spring break!!
Now,
Is a frame from a 1100 the same as a any other wide frame 1x8,1x9 thru the Quiet lines?
I think the only teens in FLA are the ones going on spring break!!
Now,
Is a frame from a 1100 the same as a any other wide frame 1x8,1x9 thru the Quiet lines?
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Wayne
The 16 HP Briggs engine mounting holes don't fall in the same spot as the Kohler. (The holes for the Briggs were added to my deck, they weren't original.) Like you, I didn't need to remove the plate to work on the Briggs.
With the Kohler, the front bolts line up right over the cross member so that unless the bolts are "customized" they bottom out on the cross member.
Removing the plate and installing the bolts "upside down" seemed like the best option to me, the cross member will ensure that the bolts don't drop out; if the nuts loosen, the bolts will still function to keep the motor in place.
Finally, I wound up dropping the deck for the first install accessing the engine bay from the side. On the second install, I removed the front grille-- the plate install required it. I think, that in the long run, removing the front grille makes the job easier.
The 16 HP Briggs engine mounting holes don't fall in the same spot as the Kohler. (The holes for the Briggs were added to my deck, they weren't original.) Like you, I didn't need to remove the plate to work on the Briggs.
With the Kohler, the front bolts line up right over the cross member so that unless the bolts are "customized" they bottom out on the cross member.
Removing the plate and installing the bolts "upside down" seemed like the best option to me, the cross member will ensure that the bolts don't drop out; if the nuts loosen, the bolts will still function to keep the motor in place.
Finally, I wound up dropping the deck for the first install accessing the engine bay from the side. On the second install, I removed the front grille-- the plate install required it. I think, that in the long run, removing the front grille makes the job easier.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Wayne, Matt
I'm still concerned about the issue of spacers to lift the Kohler Magnum 18 for mating to the hydralic pump on my 782 (SN 714899).
There were no spacers installed in the 782 when I first acquired it with the Briggs & Stratton 16 HP. In fact the motor was only secured by a single bolt. I belive the motor was shaken loose by the drive shaft which was horribly bent. At one point in its life, one or more of the bolts attaching the shaft to the engine let loose and the drive shaft and steering column beat each other up pretty badly.
The tractor shook so hard at wide open throttle that my teeth chattered. My son and I managed to straighten the shaft out enough that there is almost no visible "wiggle" or "blur" when running. But the damage to the engine had already been done in my opinion. The motor always used oil, most of it seemed to have come out the back of the engine. (The engine bay was a mess!)
Long story short, I want to be SURE to install the motor correctly so that I don't stress either the rag joint or the rear main.
Matt maintains that the drive shaft should be mounted at 3 degrees, can anyone else confirm his information? I don't doubt him so much as wonder why it should be so. Does anyone know the reason the shaft shouldn't be installed as horizontally as possible? Does the 3 degree mounting "load" the joint so that it works better than straight?
Power transmission is not my strong suit, but I know it is important and I want to learn those principles that apply to my case.
Finally, checked the specs on both the Magnum 18 and the 16 HP Briggs: the centerline of the Briggs crank is 6.59 inches (168mm); the centerline of the Kohler comes in at 6.125 inches (155.6mm), so they are not the same height. I'm fairly certain the Cub originally had a Kohler 17 HP Series I engine installed, but I can't find dimensional data on the engine, at least it isn't in their User, Service, or Parts Manuals, unless I missed it.
Does anyone know the height from the deck to the centerline of the shaft on a Kohler KT17 motor?
I'm still concerned about the issue of spacers to lift the Kohler Magnum 18 for mating to the hydralic pump on my 782 (SN 714899).
There were no spacers installed in the 782 when I first acquired it with the Briggs & Stratton 16 HP. In fact the motor was only secured by a single bolt. I belive the motor was shaken loose by the drive shaft which was horribly bent. At one point in its life, one or more of the bolts attaching the shaft to the engine let loose and the drive shaft and steering column beat each other up pretty badly.
The tractor shook so hard at wide open throttle that my teeth chattered. My son and I managed to straighten the shaft out enough that there is almost no visible "wiggle" or "blur" when running. But the damage to the engine had already been done in my opinion. The motor always used oil, most of it seemed to have come out the back of the engine. (The engine bay was a mess!)
Long story short, I want to be SURE to install the motor correctly so that I don't stress either the rag joint or the rear main.
Matt maintains that the drive shaft should be mounted at 3 degrees, can anyone else confirm his information? I don't doubt him so much as wonder why it should be so. Does anyone know the reason the shaft shouldn't be installed as horizontally as possible? Does the 3 degree mounting "load" the joint so that it works better than straight?
Power transmission is not my strong suit, but I know it is important and I want to learn those principles that apply to my case.
Finally, checked the specs on both the Magnum 18 and the 16 HP Briggs: the centerline of the Briggs crank is 6.59 inches (168mm); the centerline of the Kohler comes in at 6.125 inches (155.6mm), so they are not the same height. I'm fairly certain the Cub originally had a Kohler 17 HP Series I engine installed, but I can't find dimensional data on the engine, at least it isn't in their User, Service, or Parts Manuals, unless I missed it.
Does anyone know the height from the deck to the centerline of the shaft on a Kohler KT17 motor?
