Archive through December 14, 2004

[jgeorg]

I was under the impression that hydros did not have a PTO option. The too yellow backward seat spring 129 Charlie posted a while back looks like it does. How's it driven such that it can be engaged & disengaged?

John

 

[bmcmeen]

John G. -

I see nothing but blackness - how can you see a rear PTO?

It wasn't until the red 982 that a rear PTO appeared on a hydro, driven by a belts, pulleys and a shaft. An electric clutch similar to the Quiet Lines was used to engage/disengage.

 

[jgeorg]

Bryan, it's about 17 hours out on e-bay. It's listed and has a picture. I'm in no way involved with this auction. Just curious how it works.

John

 

[jgeorg]

Blowing that picture up it's just the fill plug. Don't know what they mean by PTO.
Sorry for the confusion.
John

(Message edited by jgeorg on December 14, 2004)

 

[bmcmeen]

John G. -

And here I KNOW Charlie sent me that auction but I can't find the dang e-mail...

Ah, found it. Yep, that's a fill plug with a lot of dirt around it.

I assume they mean that it has a PTO. Nice of them to leave it on there, eh?

 

[kbranch]

I have seen the link to the Pointsaver from Kirk engines, but how does that thing work? I might consider building one myself.

Also I seem to remember somebody building thier own electronic(maybe even digital) ignition system a while back and I didnt see it in the Vault either. I may be thinking of the point saver but I thought they re-did the whole ignition system and had it controling all the ignition and timing and stuff? Maybe I am just losing it and imagining things?

 

[digger]

Kevin B.
If Capt. Kirk wanted everyone to make one for themselves and not buy the one that he designed, perfected and sells, don't ya imagine that he would be posting the diagrams for FREE, to anyone that wants to build one for themselves?

 

[mlarubina]

Kevin B Capt Kirk points saver is the best thing you could do to your tractor. he done all the research and it works GREAT with no problems.

 

[sblunier]

When the weather gets like this....

I think it will be nice to have this in the garage...

Just finished the install tonight (had to get a line voltage thermostat with an "OFF" position at Grainger) and fired her off....

After it burned the dust out of the heat exchanger and burners (yellow flame) it ran like a top!!!! Now I can get to the 148 project this winter!!!!!

 

[tschweizer]

Sure looks different hanging there!!!

 

[pbrouillette]

Hey guys, when I go into reverse my hydro goes fast when I try to move the handle just a little. I have to put it halfway into forward to make it stop. When I hit the brake the neutral arrow is right on the pin but it is still trying to drive in reverse. It does not do it every time but it is dangerous. I have shimmed the spring on the linkage. Any ideas? Thanks, Paul

 

[jluckey]

Steve,

Did you get that new, or is it a take out from some where, it is really "cool".

Jonathan

 

[kweaver]

Paul it sounds like you have more slop in your linkage and it's not where you think it should be. Shimming the spring is probably not the right thing to do to start with anyway. Check the linkage pivots and the bushings or it may be time to rebuild the trunion.


Man it's 15º here and I can prove it 'cause I was in the shop all night ! ... and Shirtman was under 17 blankets the other night because it was under 80º down his way

 

[sblunier]

Paul,

You need to adjust the cam bracket on the lfet side of the hydro as detailed in the service manual.

You adjust the pointer and it's relation to "N" with the linkage turnbuckles........but you adjust the actual "N" position on the hydro by moving the cam bracket in it's slotted holes.

It's an easy, but somewhat dangerous thing to do, especially on a narrow frame hydro, but in the end it is well worth it.

Have you ever split the tractor?????? This adjustment must be performed every time you split the tractor or remove the hydro.

This is where having a maunal is worth it's purchase price.

BTW, Ken's right, shimming the spring is not the place to start on this problem.

(Message edited by sblunier on December 15, 2004)

 

[sblunier]

Jonathan,

It's a take-out...spent most of it's life in a fire station.

 

[dplogman]

I’ve got a small question about a battery issue on a 122. Bought it in May, the positive terminal of the battery has a black cable hooked to it and connects to the frame of the tractor. Negative has a red cable hooked to it and goes (I guess) to the starter. Well this seems kinda strange, as strange as my positive ground 66 MG, but that’s how they built them. Are these things positive ground, and are they 12 volt or 6? No where on the battery does it say. I want to avoid sparks, you know. Thanks in advance!! Dave

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, it should be 12volt negative ground. I believe the S/G is self polarizing so it'll work either way. I recall a discussion on here a month or so ago about the same issue. Perhaps those that were in on that one will post again.

 

[dplogman]

Kraig: Does S/G mean starter/generator? I was going to fire her up this am to try out my new old thrower and didnt have enough battery. Hooked the charger up Red to + Black to -. Nothing exploded so guess I'm OK. Why do you think the Pos is going to the frame? Is it just hooked up wrong? I've been using this thing all summer. Just leave it alone or try switching them around. I dont want to cook anything you know... Thanks again, Dave

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, yes S/G = Starter/Generator. I would think that as long as it's working OK there should be no need to convert it back. Hooking your charger up the way you did would be correct just don't let the frame touch the charger.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, one can only guess why people did the things they did to these 30-40 year old tractors. Perhaps a previous owner was used to positive ground systems and preferred them over the negative ground.