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Archive through December 06, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Expecting 2-4" here tomorrow.
Ready to rock and roll!!
But, the bitter temps to follow will take the fun outta it I'm sure
The "O"....ready to throw!!

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And the trusty old 1000

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Thanks Charlie - I found the serial number braks and also the monthly production numbers in the 50 years of cub cadet... but was wondering if #1 65458 was a 70, a #2 65459 was a 100.. etc
 
Fire up your flux capacitor and head back in time and snatch the production reports off the line and you'll have your answer. And you can tell everyone else.
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Sometimes it's hard to try to help;
But I'll keep trying:

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............Jut sittin' back watchin' Harry vs. Dennis. You know who's corner I'm in.

BTW, All those who ever broke a main clutch spring on a GD raise their hand.
I've NEVER had one.
 
Well, I have never broke a main spring on a gear drive IH Cub Cadet. However, wheel weights and "dumping" the clutch will cause a great amount of unneeded stress in the drive line assembly. I have seen spiral pins that looked like a stair case steps. I always try to use control when releasing the clutch, as I have about 100 pounds on each rear 23 x 8.5 x 12" rim.

I have seen first hand a maximum amount of abuse come from a model 102. This clutch release lever was so far gone, the throw out bearing almost could pass through the lever. Came to the point where one could not stop the drive system.

I cant take sides anymore. Pretty fascinated with the hydro model I have.

If I may, Ohio State better get with it.
 
What are you guys/gals using for replacement tires for the 4.80 - 8 tire other than the tri rims and the $----y jap ones on sleezepay. I know Carlisle has a trailer tire but those are pretty stiff. Firestone has the Turf Guide but the are $$$. You can find 16 X 6.50-8's are all over place but not much for the 4.80 - 8's.
I'm looking for a good worker tire.
 
TOM - I think Harry is making this stuff up as he goes along. Not only have I never broke a pressure spring, I don't remember ANYBODY here ever saying they did. I won't say it can't happen, but a big heavy spring like that only compressing a half inch should have a life expectancy of millions of cycles. Springs by their nature fatigue in operation, whether coil, leaf or torsion, they sag, they can break, the more they compress, the bigger chance they will break. My '78 F150 I over-loaded a lot, never broke a leaf in the rear springs. My '87 F150 I never over-loaded, in fact, never carried much at all. I broke two of the four leaves in the left rear spring. Stuff happens!

JEFF - When I refurbished the 70 this spring, I had a new teaser spring, pressure spring, & T/O bearing for it already, also a used but good friction disk. When I got the clutch and drive shaft out, the area where the T/o brg & teaser spring looked good,only very slight wear, the rear hole for the coupler was still tight, so I reused the 48 yr old driveshaft. Clutch works like new. I'm sure the parts I replaced were factory original. That tractor had worn out 5 or 6 K161/181 engines so it had a LOT of hours on it. Most of it's use was mowing, never had any weights on it, and with the Pizza cutter GY turfs, couldn't pull much, plus there were always bigger tractors around to do the heavy pulling.

The drive shafts in the 72, (It's on #3 since new) all seem to wear at the roll pin hole on the very back. That's due to a combination of more HP and the way I use it, heavy draft loads, plowing, aerating my yard, pulling my lawn vac, etc. Not sure why IH LVL didn't add another roll pin on a longer coupler like I wanted to do, or use tougher steel than the 1018 CRS they used, but at least ONE engineer @ FARMALL knew about the problem with the rear of the driveshaft on higher HP GD CC's. We were tallking CC's one day at the water cooler and he mentioned the problem on his 10 or 12 HP GD CC. On 7 & 8 HP GD's they last forever. Factory DS on my 72 was 13 yrs old when I got it, had a 10 HP engine installed 4 yrs later, wallowed out the hole in the DS and broke the roll pin in five more years. I replaced the roll pins with 1/4" dia A2 TOOL Steel pins in a brand new OEM DS & coupler, they lasted till about 14 yrs all with 10 HP. I'll let you know in another 10-15 yrs how the MWSC 4140 pre-hardeden steel DS & Grd 8 bolts work. They've got 6-7 yrs & 200 hrs on them already.
 

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