-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through December 06, 2013
- Thread starter fcurrier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
John Boelens
I just love it when some one post a picture of there shop. I see an engine and I want a lift like that and O so many more yellow parts . And the sign ; well I got a wall that it would look great on. Nice find!!
I just love it when some one post a picture of there shop. I see an engine and I want a lift like that and O so many more yellow parts . And the sign ; well I got a wall that it would look great on. Nice find!!
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
John L - pretty amazing you had a clutch that went 46 years. I would have thought generally they would go 10-20 years at most. I had at least 10-15 gear drives and always had to replace at least the thro-out bearing and teaser spring, and I finally gave up on those 3 springs that hold tension on the pressure plate. I just don't know how they can come off when you install them correctly.
Tom and Jeff - I had a 1200 myself, and I actually enjoyed it - but I had a guy with a wad of those presidents that paid for it ahead of the restoration I did, so I had no choice but to see it loaded onto his pickup. I did get to do a few of those wheelies I mentioned. I do think the earlier design for the clutch was better than the changes made for the QL, but it's still probably a 10-20 clutch design.
And one other thing, my son has a 1200 right now, and actually told me he likes the manual lift for the deck. Prefers it over the hydraulic on his 1650. Don't quite understand that, but it must be something about the combination of the tractor and what his yard requires for mowing. I do know if someone came to him with a big wad of those dead presidents he'd be waving at it as it went down his driveway, and just go back to mowing with a hydro, which he now has his snowthrower mounted to.
Bill "Double Q" J - if I were you I'd start thinking of convering your 16hp to drop it into your 109, and just plan to move the 126 on down the road. The 109 (wannabe 169) and 1450 (almost 1650) are both wide frames so you can easily switch the attachments around. And if you really like those 1" front spindles you can convert the 109 as well. And if you just gotta get them even closer to being the same you can get yourself a new key switch for the 109 that uses the same key as the 1450.
James K - I can't really understand why the po went and changed the A frame. The original A frame had the pin welded in place. I'd like to see a pic showing a little more of the front of your A frame, but it appears the po welded a tube in place of the original bolt and then used a bolt thru the tube. When it tripped on you today the A frame must have just slid right off the tube. I think you're gonna have to make a new pin, remove that tube and weld the new pin in place. The new pin will need to have a threaded bottom so you can attach it on the spring trip mounting plate with a nut, as it was originally. You just have to make sure when it's welded that you don't weld the top where the pin fits into the U on the back of the blade. The original pin was only welded top and bottom on the inside of the A frame, and normally holds up fine. You could try to find a used A frame. They do show up once in awhile, but you might have to find an old complete blade about shot that still has a decent A frame to use. Make sure the A frame isn't bent/twisted. They will sometimes if the blade is used for ramming with the trip lockout in place. You can also make yourself a new pin for locking the blade in the rotating positions. I don't know the dimensions of either pin off hand but you should be able to figure it out based on the holes in the A frame, and then comfirm it on here with someone that can measure theirs. Good luck with it.
John B - nice shop and sign. Looks like you're doing alot of work. You might want to add another sign that says:
All Service at $80/flat rate hr.
Tom and Jeff - I had a 1200 myself, and I actually enjoyed it - but I had a guy with a wad of those presidents that paid for it ahead of the restoration I did, so I had no choice but to see it loaded onto his pickup. I did get to do a few of those wheelies I mentioned. I do think the earlier design for the clutch was better than the changes made for the QL, but it's still probably a 10-20 clutch design.
And one other thing, my son has a 1200 right now, and actually told me he likes the manual lift for the deck. Prefers it over the hydraulic on his 1650. Don't quite understand that, but it must be something about the combination of the tractor and what his yard requires for mowing. I do know if someone came to him with a big wad of those dead presidents he'd be waving at it as it went down his driveway, and just go back to mowing with a hydro, which he now has his snowthrower mounted to.
Bill "Double Q" J - if I were you I'd start thinking of convering your 16hp to drop it into your 109, and just plan to move the 126 on down the road. The 109 (wannabe 169) and 1450 (almost 1650) are both wide frames so you can easily switch the attachments around. And if you really like those 1" front spindles you can convert the 109 as well. And if you just gotta get them even closer to being the same you can get yourself a new key switch for the 109 that uses the same key as the 1450.
James K - I can't really understand why the po went and changed the A frame. The original A frame had the pin welded in place. I'd like to see a pic showing a little more of the front of your A frame, but it appears the po welded a tube in place of the original bolt and then used a bolt thru the tube. When it tripped on you today the A frame must have just slid right off the tube. I think you're gonna have to make a new pin, remove that tube and weld the new pin in place. The new pin will need to have a threaded bottom so you can attach it on the spring trip mounting plate with a nut, as it was originally. You just have to make sure when it's welded that you don't weld the top where the pin fits into the U on the back of the blade. The original pin was only welded top and bottom on the inside of the A frame, and normally holds up fine. You could try to find a used A frame. They do show up once in awhile, but you might have to find an old complete blade about shot that still has a decent A frame to use. Make sure the A frame isn't bent/twisted. They will sometimes if the blade is used for ramming with the trip lockout in place. You can also make yourself a new pin for locking the blade in the rotating positions. I don't know the dimensions of either pin off hand but you should be able to figure it out based on the holes in the A frame, and then comfirm it on here with someone that can measure theirs. Good luck with it.
John B - nice shop and sign. Looks like you're doing alot of work. You might want to add another sign that says:
All Service at $80/flat rate hr.
J
jclazar
Guest
Harry H - Yup! Complete component replacement excluded turned pressure plates, bronze pilot bushing, and main spring. The release lever was still perfect at the pivot point and at the T.O bearing surface area. The cold rolled steel drive shaft was out of tolerance where the T.O bearing resides, and was in need of replacement. A new bearing, teaser spring, spiral pins, and those wonderful anti-chatter springs complement the repairs. No doubt, original equipment removed, though the garden tractor was not in continual use during the 46 years of existence. Still, the IH Cub Cadet direct drive system was among the very best of the garden tractor manufactures. Was a great IH Cub Cadet selling point as well!
I finally have a IH Cub Cadet 1250, my first one ever and now can imagine the "light"! But, can only be complemented by a gear drive, of course
I finally have a IH Cub Cadet 1250, my first one ever and now can imagine the "light"! But, can only be complemented by a gear drive, of course
Harry,
Here is another photo of the front of the A Frame - looks like the PO has made a non-reversible modification. I might just weld a washer or nut to the bolt to keep if from falling off.
We are dealing with the second snow of the season (another eight inches) cold last night with ice fog this morning. Here is the veiw out of the back door.
Here is another photo of the front of the A Frame - looks like the PO has made a non-reversible modification. I might just weld a washer or nut to the bolt to keep if from falling off.
We are dealing with the second snow of the season (another eight inches) cold last night with ice fog this morning. Here is the veiw out of the back door.
HARRY - Atleast HALF of those problems you claim the manual trans/clutches have I have NEVER experienced in FIFTY years of running GD CC's, and the other half have remedies.
Yes, T/O bearing fail, and if you really want to make them fail quick, put a much stiffer pressure sping than needed in the clutch, that kills them quick! Or ride the clutch pedal, or let the return spring get bad like Don T's, and you'll kill the T/O bearing too. But with stock parts and an operator that's read the manual about proper operation of the clutch, 40-50 yr life should be doable. Teaser spings live at 100% coil bind when the clutch is engaged, only extends when you push the clutch in, ANY spring will break when repeatedly placed in coil bind. You just replace them every time you have a clutch apart. When they break, they don't "rattle", because the pressure sping has compressed them into coil bind, A broken teaser spring makes it hard to ease the clutch out gently, but you can run a GD CC forever with a broken teaser spring and not know it except for the grabby engagement.
I've never had a CC clutch friction disk excplode, but if abused bad enough, or dropped & cracked when out of the tractor, I guess it could happen. Best change IH made to the clutch disk was bonding two thinner pieces of friction material to a thin piece of sheet metal. The disk has a V-E-R-Y long life even if abused or slipped a lot. The one in my 72 is 32 yrs old and no signs of giving up yet.
Never had a pressure spring break, the factory spring in my 72 did compress and lost a bit of clamping pressure. Typical of compression coil springs, or Springs in general. You can shim them, or use the movable clamping collar on the driveshaft instead of the roll pin * washer like IH used, restores the sagged spring to OEM pressures. BT-DT.
The ONLY roll pin hole that wears on the driveshaft is the very rear-most hole, and ONLY on 10 HP & greater tractors, the frt hole on the coupler right in frt of the reduction housing. I've broken a roll pin twice and replaced a drive shaft TWICE because of that hole in the DS wallowing out. The 1018 CRS IH used was NOT the right steel for that application, I was going to make a new DS from "Stress-Proof" steel (look it up!) but used a 4140 prehard MWSC DS instead. I'll let you know how that works in 20 more YEARS, which is the minimum life expectancy of the OEM DS in HARD use. That hole is the ONLY place in the whole drive line where ONE 1/4" dia. roll pin drives the whole tractor, well, the back hole on the coupler does too, but the input shaft of the reduction housing is 1040/1045 carburized steel, MUCH stronger/harder. IH should have made the coupler longer and put TWO 1/4" dia roll pins in the couple/drivesahft. I was going to do that on my 72, but got the MWSC clutch instead. If it fails in less than 20 years I will make my next driveshaft, I still have the 5/8" dia. Stress-Proof steel bar. MTD on the post-IH GD's used a shock absorbing coupler similar in design to a LoveJoy coupling. Problem solved!
The anti-rattle springs WILL fly out if installed "By the manual", because the manual is WRONG, put the spring or Springs on the drive plate's roll pins THEN slide the engine back and trap the springs between the backing plate & clutch disk. The 3 anti-rattle spings have stayed put for well over 30 yrs since I installed them that way. And frankly, even without the springs, the rattle is barely audible. My PTO clutches rattle MUCH more whether engaged or disengaged. and even when I had a muffler I could barely hear the PTO clutch.
So yes, if you like to repair CC's, GET A HYDRO! Change the Hy-Tran & filter every 100-150 hrs with two gallons of $15/gal Hy-Tran, repair the trunnion, replace the Cork Gasket, and rear axle seals, and rag joints. My 982 is 33 yrs old, the trunnion was badly worn and poorly repaired when I bought it 13 yrs ago @ 20 yrs of age so I fixed it better than OEM when the prior reapir failed and I almost drove into the concrete wall on the back of my shop 10 yrs ago. Tractor wouldn't stop, and only moving the speed control lever into full reverse slowed it down. The cork gasket has leaked since the first night I parked it in the shop. It stops leaking once it's about a half quart low, so if your Hydro doesn't leak, you need to add some Hy-Tran.
It's not that I'm "Anti-Hydro", but just realistic, the hydro & GD Cc's have things that wear and deteriorate, neither one are "Perfect" but both are pretty darned good compared to the competition. But saying the GD's with their dry disk clutch have to be replaced every 10-20 yrs is just WRONG. I have 59 & 62 yr old FARMALL full size tractors out in the shop that were worked HARD, and both still have the factory clutches in them. And both are used on loaders, which anybody whode run loaders know you use the clutch A LOT. The M has been a loader tractor it's entire life, 62 yrs! 45-50 yr old CC's should/could last this long too.
Yes, T/O bearing fail, and if you really want to make them fail quick, put a much stiffer pressure sping than needed in the clutch, that kills them quick! Or ride the clutch pedal, or let the return spring get bad like Don T's, and you'll kill the T/O bearing too. But with stock parts and an operator that's read the manual about proper operation of the clutch, 40-50 yr life should be doable. Teaser spings live at 100% coil bind when the clutch is engaged, only extends when you push the clutch in, ANY spring will break when repeatedly placed in coil bind. You just replace them every time you have a clutch apart. When they break, they don't "rattle", because the pressure sping has compressed them into coil bind, A broken teaser spring makes it hard to ease the clutch out gently, but you can run a GD CC forever with a broken teaser spring and not know it except for the grabby engagement.
I've never had a CC clutch friction disk excplode, but if abused bad enough, or dropped & cracked when out of the tractor, I guess it could happen. Best change IH made to the clutch disk was bonding two thinner pieces of friction material to a thin piece of sheet metal. The disk has a V-E-R-Y long life even if abused or slipped a lot. The one in my 72 is 32 yrs old and no signs of giving up yet.
Never had a pressure spring break, the factory spring in my 72 did compress and lost a bit of clamping pressure. Typical of compression coil springs, or Springs in general. You can shim them, or use the movable clamping collar on the driveshaft instead of the roll pin * washer like IH used, restores the sagged spring to OEM pressures. BT-DT.
The ONLY roll pin hole that wears on the driveshaft is the very rear-most hole, and ONLY on 10 HP & greater tractors, the frt hole on the coupler right in frt of the reduction housing. I've broken a roll pin twice and replaced a drive shaft TWICE because of that hole in the DS wallowing out. The 1018 CRS IH used was NOT the right steel for that application, I was going to make a new DS from "Stress-Proof" steel (look it up!) but used a 4140 prehard MWSC DS instead. I'll let you know how that works in 20 more YEARS, which is the minimum life expectancy of the OEM DS in HARD use. That hole is the ONLY place in the whole drive line where ONE 1/4" dia. roll pin drives the whole tractor, well, the back hole on the coupler does too, but the input shaft of the reduction housing is 1040/1045 carburized steel, MUCH stronger/harder. IH should have made the coupler longer and put TWO 1/4" dia roll pins in the couple/drivesahft. I was going to do that on my 72, but got the MWSC clutch instead. If it fails in less than 20 years I will make my next driveshaft, I still have the 5/8" dia. Stress-Proof steel bar. MTD on the post-IH GD's used a shock absorbing coupler similar in design to a LoveJoy coupling. Problem solved!
The anti-rattle springs WILL fly out if installed "By the manual", because the manual is WRONG, put the spring or Springs on the drive plate's roll pins THEN slide the engine back and trap the springs between the backing plate & clutch disk. The 3 anti-rattle spings have stayed put for well over 30 yrs since I installed them that way. And frankly, even without the springs, the rattle is barely audible. My PTO clutches rattle MUCH more whether engaged or disengaged. and even when I had a muffler I could barely hear the PTO clutch.
So yes, if you like to repair CC's, GET A HYDRO! Change the Hy-Tran & filter every 100-150 hrs with two gallons of $15/gal Hy-Tran, repair the trunnion, replace the Cork Gasket, and rear axle seals, and rag joints. My 982 is 33 yrs old, the trunnion was badly worn and poorly repaired when I bought it 13 yrs ago @ 20 yrs of age so I fixed it better than OEM when the prior reapir failed and I almost drove into the concrete wall on the back of my shop 10 yrs ago. Tractor wouldn't stop, and only moving the speed control lever into full reverse slowed it down. The cork gasket has leaked since the first night I parked it in the shop. It stops leaking once it's about a half quart low, so if your Hydro doesn't leak, you need to add some Hy-Tran.
It's not that I'm "Anti-Hydro", but just realistic, the hydro & GD Cc's have things that wear and deteriorate, neither one are "Perfect" but both are pretty darned good compared to the competition. But saying the GD's with their dry disk clutch have to be replaced every 10-20 yrs is just WRONG. I have 59 & 62 yr old FARMALL full size tractors out in the shop that were worked HARD, and both still have the factory clutches in them. And both are used on loaders, which anybody whode run loaders know you use the clutch A LOT. The M has been a loader tractor it's entire life, 62 yrs! 45-50 yr old CC's should/could last this long too.
HARRY - Rest of my mesage;
I will say this, the old 129 I had was a great first CC for SON when he was about 8 yrs old. I tried teaching him how to run the 72, but he found "Too mnay Nuetrals" in the transmission. He'd shift slightly into gear but not engage the gears because the gear teeth butted up against each other, he'd let the clutch out an not move. He's a LOT smarter now 24 yrs later.
If your planned work for a CC includes roto-tilling or snow blowing a hydro makes sense, but for about anything else, a GD works just fine too. In fact some people think a GD w/creeper works better on a tiller, and should work fine with a snow blower too.I've never had a GD w/creeper, I just Abuse/slip the clutch and the friction plates & T/O bearing take it.
Ohhh and as far as clutch pedal effort, if you think a stock or even modified CC clutch is stiff, try driving a semi-tractor with a 14" dual disk clutch. When I first started driving O-t-R back in '82, after 10-15 seconds my leg would start trembling from the effort to hold the clutch pedal down at stop signs/stop lights. Month later it was NO problem, I could hold the pedal down for ten minutes if I needed to. You get used to it!
I will say this, the old 129 I had was a great first CC for SON when he was about 8 yrs old. I tried teaching him how to run the 72, but he found "Too mnay Nuetrals" in the transmission. He'd shift slightly into gear but not engage the gears because the gear teeth butted up against each other, he'd let the clutch out an not move. He's a LOT smarter now 24 yrs later.
If your planned work for a CC includes roto-tilling or snow blowing a hydro makes sense, but for about anything else, a GD works just fine too. In fact some people think a GD w/creeper works better on a tiller, and should work fine with a snow blower too.I've never had a GD w/creeper, I just Abuse/slip the clutch and the friction plates & T/O bearing take it.
Ohhh and as far as clutch pedal effort, if you think a stock or even modified CC clutch is stiff, try driving a semi-tractor with a 14" dual disk clutch. When I first started driving O-t-R back in '82, after 10-15 seconds my leg would start trembling from the effort to hold the clutch pedal down at stop signs/stop lights. Month later it was NO problem, I could hold the pedal down for ten minutes if I needed to. You get used to it!
NIC B. I'd have to calculate the rate of expansion for a gas, whether nitrogen or plain air which is 78% N, 20.95% Oxygen, and 4-5% CO2... but as I look at the formula, there's NO chart for differing rates of expansion for the different gases. I DO know that different gasses absorb or dissipate heat at different rates. Maybe my comment about N2 filled tires running cooler isn't WRONG.
ANYHOW... Please read "CLAIM #1" here; http://powertank.com/truth.or.hype/
And check out "The GAS Test" at the bottom. I've never shot my Raytech at a hot car/truck tire after 100-200 miles of high speed running, but I do know that F-1 race cars regularly run 200+ degree F tire temps. I think they should have heated their gas bottles a little bit hotter, but that's just My opinion, and their testing was relating to car/truck/RV tires, not the fastest hi-tech race cars on the planet.
ANYHOW... Please read "CLAIM #1" here; http://powertank.com/truth.or.hype/
And check out "The GAS Test" at the bottom. I've never shot my Raytech at a hot car/truck tire after 100-200 miles of high speed running, but I do know that F-1 race cars regularly run 200+ degree F tire temps. I think they should have heated their gas bottles a little bit hotter, but that's just My opinion, and their testing was relating to car/truck/RV tires, not the fastest hi-tech race cars on the planet.
Not sure how to modify my 73 mule drive for use with my 1A tiller later on... I understand the spring should be removed and then replaced with some other part(s). Are these anything special? Could any of the parts from a 70/100 mule drive be used for this?
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Dennis,
Ugh....
this conversation is about as futile as the ensuing Hydro vs. GD convo going on around us.
While his "claims" are "generally" correct, his test methods are highly inaccurate. First off, he subjected his gauges to harsh conditions during in ongoing test. Maybe he should have put that IR temp gun in the freezer too an see how accurate it is when it come out. But he said in the end "pressures were within 1pound of each other." Well, when your adjusting pressures by as little as 1/4psi, that 1 pound swing can ruin your day.
So I give up... I'm not trying to sell you anything. When I go racing, it's N2 for me. When I mow my grass, it's plain old air in my HYDRO IH 782. And when I do real work like plowing or pulling, it's on GEAR DRIVE. Both are great, and are better for a particular purpose. If I could only have 1, it would depend on the intended use to determine what I would keep.
And regardless, it's going to have shop air in the tires.
P.S. no I don't put N2 in my pulling tires. It's just not that important to me. If I could win $$$$ I would, but I own the club, and I can't pay out yet.
Ugh....
While his "claims" are "generally" correct, his test methods are highly inaccurate. First off, he subjected his gauges to harsh conditions during in ongoing test. Maybe he should have put that IR temp gun in the freezer too an see how accurate it is when it come out. But he said in the end "pressures were within 1pound of each other." Well, when your adjusting pressures by as little as 1/4psi, that 1 pound swing can ruin your day.
So I give up... I'm not trying to sell you anything. When I go racing, it's N2 for me. When I mow my grass, it's plain old air in my HYDRO IH 782. And when I do real work like plowing or pulling, it's on GEAR DRIVE. Both are great, and are better for a particular purpose. If I could only have 1, it would depend on the intended use to determine what I would keep.
And regardless, it's going to have shop air in the tires.
P.S. no I don't put N2 in my pulling tires. It's just not that important to me. If I could win $$$$ I would, but I own the club, and I can't pay out yet.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Steve S - I think you can just use the mule drive for your 73 with the tiller. Hopefully the other guys on here will pipe in on recommendations but I believe the primary item recommended is changing the 2 pulleys to thicker steel versions that probably have better bearings.
Dennis - boy ooh boy, I don't know how you got everything to last so long, especially never had a main spring break. They usually break about the middle and really can't be reused. And I think it's the teaser spring that wallows the driveshaft so the thro-out bearing doesn't sit or slide correctly. I don't want you to get me wrong tho - the clutch assembly design is great. It really just comes down to this. IH only made 2 driveline styles. If they had made 6 or 7 it'd be hard to discuss which one is better, but since they only made 2 there is always going to be a great debate. I happen to prefer the Hydro and sounds like you prefer the Gear.
Ooh, and by the way - if I recall correctly IH recommended replacing the Hydro filter every 100 hours but never did spec replacing the fluid. I think 100-150 hours might be a little more than necessary. I'd usually go 2-3 years and still feel safe, but I've had hydros that I'm certain never had the fluid changed. It didn't look good when I did change it but it still operated fine. And as for the infamous cork gasket, I've had some hydros that didn't seem to leak. I think the only reason it's "infamous" is that it's a $3 gasket (or was $3) and takes about 4 hours for the average owner to replace it - which I suppose is about the same amount of time it takes the average owner to rebuild a clutch assembly.
James K - I just don't understand why the po did what he did, but I'd say you could just weld a rod in place and still leave that tube in place. Thinking back, I may have been slightly incorrect in my earlier info about where the original rod was welded. I believe the top of the original rod was welded on the back outside (toward the tractor) but the front was not welded so that it would still fit into the U slot on the back of the blade. I think you could just weld your rod there and be ok. As for your handle where there is currently an eye bolt, have a look in the parts breakdown so you can see where they used springs and a cotter pin. You can probably modify the eye bolt the same way, by drilling a few holes and adding the springs.
John L - nice to see you have a Hydro as well. I agree that one version compliments the other. They are both terrific but don't tell anyone I said that, or ya might take half the fun out of this Forum.
Frank C - hey I didn't miss your comments either. You're absolutely right. Pretty amazing we can have these units around after 40-50 years, and our grandkids can have them to.
Dennis - boy ooh boy, I don't know how you got everything to last so long, especially never had a main spring break. They usually break about the middle and really can't be reused. And I think it's the teaser spring that wallows the driveshaft so the thro-out bearing doesn't sit or slide correctly. I don't want you to get me wrong tho - the clutch assembly design is great. It really just comes down to this. IH only made 2 driveline styles. If they had made 6 or 7 it'd be hard to discuss which one is better, but since they only made 2 there is always going to be a great debate. I happen to prefer the Hydro and sounds like you prefer the Gear.
Ooh, and by the way - if I recall correctly IH recommended replacing the Hydro filter every 100 hours but never did spec replacing the fluid. I think 100-150 hours might be a little more than necessary. I'd usually go 2-3 years and still feel safe, but I've had hydros that I'm certain never had the fluid changed. It didn't look good when I did change it but it still operated fine. And as for the infamous cork gasket, I've had some hydros that didn't seem to leak. I think the only reason it's "infamous" is that it's a $3 gasket (or was $3) and takes about 4 hours for the average owner to replace it - which I suppose is about the same amount of time it takes the average owner to rebuild a clutch assembly.
James K - I just don't understand why the po did what he did, but I'd say you could just weld a rod in place and still leave that tube in place. Thinking back, I may have been slightly incorrect in my earlier info about where the original rod was welded. I believe the top of the original rod was welded on the back outside (toward the tractor) but the front was not welded so that it would still fit into the U slot on the back of the blade. I think you could just weld your rod there and be ok. As for your handle where there is currently an eye bolt, have a look in the parts breakdown so you can see where they used springs and a cotter pin. You can probably modify the eye bolt the same way, by drilling a few holes and adding the springs.
John L - nice to see you have a Hydro as well. I agree that one version compliments the other. They are both terrific but don't tell anyone I said that, or ya might take half the fun out of this Forum.
Frank C - hey I didn't miss your comments either. You're absolutely right. Pretty amazing we can have these units around after 40-50 years, and our grandkids can have them to.
