• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through December 03, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
jeff l baker

(Retorting topic in main forum? )

that should work, because we are explaining how TO do the task correctly.

Paul W.Roessler

I would have to disagree lol. The two stage 450 is the way to move snow (30' or more). but a cab would be nice
greenthumb.gif


Ge I hate prep work, I know it pays off in the end .125 is getting some of my time today.

re torque ! I like, copper head gaskets, torque them after heat and never again, and they have at least 4 usages .
 
I only have a cheapo brand 1/2 torque wrench.
blush.gif
For what little wrenching I do I figure it's better than guessing.
dunno.gif
My brother has a nice Craftsman 1/2" torque wrench, which I borrowed to use on Killer's head bolts after it's first start/warmup, I didn't want to take any chances with those bolts.
 
Just to sum up..If you think of fasteners as springs instead of bolts. screws you will have a better idea of how they work..If you overstretch that spring it can fail, and it will not return to its original length, causing problems later....If you do not put enough stretch in that spring, you will not have the clamping force neccesary to hold those two parts together..Cubs are very forgiving in most cases, but there is a few places that must be torqued if you do not want to have problems..
 
Ok, Donald. U got me.
err.gif
I've been looking for IH 364 2 stage to replace my QA42A. Then my IH Windbreaker will really come in handy.
old.gif
I traded my 54" hyd. switch blade 10+ years ago...
bash.gif
Why?
 
Paul W.Roessler

LoL Thanks to Art A , I got a great snow mover and the cab I bought won`t fit the tractor I need to use the 450 on. I just have to cover up good ,that snow can be COLD .

Torque wrenches ! One of the first tools I bought to do as best I could on my Cubs.

233243.jpg


Some things are best done as best you can with the skills you have .
 
My thoughts on head bolt torquing. For years I have followed a procedure on these old Kohlers of torquing the head bolts, running the engine for a good 30 min. Letting it cool overnight and then retorquing. I did this 3 times.

The second time would require quite a bit of adjustment, the third time they would be real close, and if you checked them a 4th time they would be dead on. I have never had any problems doing it that way.

The last time I did an engine I bought all new head bolts. When I wen't back to recheck they were dead on, not requiring any readjustment.

I can see now why new engines are only torqued once.
 
Torque wrenches are for NERDS...
cwm.gif


Just tighten it until whatever you're working on starts to smoke and turn blue, then back it off half a turn.

Always works for me...
Shift.gif


P.S. Don, it's not MY fault your cab doesn't fit your tractor!
n00b.gif
 
Art, I thought that once you had the bolt tight, you just tack welded it into place.
1a_scratchhead.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top