KRAIG, BRUCE - Engines ALWAYS run their best just before they scatter themselves to bits. I cleaned the driveway Saturday just before it started snowing again. We had 2-3" about Tuesday or Wednesday night. I put the chains on the old 70 & bolted the belly blade on and I was surprised how well it did. It doesn't have the frame cover beneath the clutch/driveshaft and when I was pushing a pretty good windrow of snow the flywheel/blower was sucking in snow and blowing STEAM out the front. I'd never seen that on a Cubbie before....
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Archive through December 02, 2005
- Thread starter rrschmitt
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Dennis F.
Dang man! You oughta know to check the anti-freeze in that 70 before it gets cold outside!
Dang man! You oughta know to check the anti-freeze in that 70 before it gets cold outside!
Todd, Here's that cutaway view without my red notes, it shows that the spirol pin does not extend into the groove in part 10. Measure the other pin, the "external pin", on your creeper and see what length it is. if it's 3/4" then the pin in question should be 1" if the "external pin" is 1" then the pin in question should be 3/4".
Denny, that's what I've heard, something like "It was running great then BANG, it blew a hole in the block!" or "It was running fine then WHAM it quit and when I tore it down the crank was broke." My #2 125 has been running fine for quite some time now.......... but then rarely does anyone say "it was running like crap then BOOM." 'cause if it's running like crap they fix it. 
)
)rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
I gave my Grandson a nice running 1250 cub awhile ago and one day his dad was mowing with it and it just quit and he said it didn't make any noise. When he tried to start it there was no compression. I figured it was probably a stuck valve so I took it home and the valves were operating so I removed the head and the piston sat still when you rotated the crankshaft. I haven't tore it down yet, I suspect the rod is gone but it was one of the quietest best running 12 hp engines I have seen and I would never have thought it would go like that. It never burnt any oil, started and ran as smooth as I have ever seen.
I'm slow this morning Kraig.
Charlie, hmmm that shows 2- 3/16"x3/4" spirol pins and one 3/16"x 1" spirol pins. Where do all these pins go? That also shows the cotter pin where does that go?
Richard, I sure hope my #2 125 starts running terrible soon, all these years of it running nicely are really making me nervous......
Richard, I sure hope my #2 125 starts running terrible soon, all these years of it running nicely are really making me nervous......
Kraig,
To be totally honest!
I've never had to work on one or tear it apart, so I don't have a clue! How's that for answer!
To be totally honest!
I've never had to work on one or tear it apart, so I don't have a clue! How's that for answer!
Kraig, Just got back from ACE and picked up one of each just to be sure. I was also wondering where the cotter pin goes? I have torn this thing apart so many times the last few weeks thought I knew where all the parts went.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
Charlie, at the least it's an answer. )
)bmcmeen
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Todd C. -
You bought SPIROL pins at Ace Hardware? I don't think so. Roll pins maybe, but not spirol. Yes, it makes a difference.
According to McMaster.com:
Slotted (what you likely bought at Ace): Also known as spring dowels, roll-tension pins, split pins, expansion pins, and c-pins. Ends are rounded for easy insertion.
Standard-Duty Coiled (what you need): Wound in a spiral for superior flexibility, these pins fit snugly in out-of-round holes. They accommodate wider hole tolerances plus absorb shock and vibration better than standard spring pins.
You bought SPIROL pins at Ace Hardware? I don't think so. Roll pins maybe, but not spirol. Yes, it makes a difference.
According to McMaster.com:
Slotted (what you likely bought at Ace): Also known as spring dowels, roll-tension pins, split pins, expansion pins, and c-pins. Ends are rounded for easy insertion.
Standard-Duty Coiled (what you need): Wound in a spiral for superior flexibility, these pins fit snugly in out-of-round holes. They accommodate wider hole tolerances plus absorb shock and vibration better than standard spring pins.
That is correct a roll pin. I really don't think it will make a difference since I am not using it for the gears or such just with the shift lever and I need this Cub up and running. My dealer is closed for a few days and then I can get the correct pin. I am getting pretty good at pulling the creeper unit so replacement won't take too long. Sorry about all the previous spelling errors typing fast and not using spell ck.
The cotter pin for the creeper handle goes on the left end of the handle to retain a washer that holds the outer o ring on that side. It'd be the first part that goes on the handle starting at the bend. The roll pin for the yoke should be flush with the top of the handle shaft and protude below the yoke, but not so much that it rubs the housing.
(Message edited by kmoe on December 05, 2005)
(Message edited by kmoe on December 05, 2005)
(Message edited by kmoe on December 05, 2005)
(Message edited by kmoe on December 05, 2005)
bmcmeen
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Well if the one you're replacing is falling out, the incorrect one you're gonna replace it with will probably fall out while you're using it. The correct part will stay in the hole assuming it's not way beyond spec - that's what it's designed for.
And McMaster.com ships to your door, so it really doesn't matter how long your local dealer is closed
But hey, if you wanna fix it more than once and drink your beer that's your business.
We're just trying to help you get it fixed right the first time.
And McMaster.com ships to your door, so it really doesn't matter how long your local dealer is closed
But hey, if you wanna fix it more than once and drink your beer that's your business.
Tech Tips,
All this talk about coiled pins and rolled pins got me thinking. I have fixed both of my 147's steering woes. As most of you NF owners out there know, your Drag Link Arm (item #8) can get very sloppy on your Left Hand Steering Knuckle (item #6). The sloppy connection causes sloppy steering and sometimes you will even loose your coiled pin.
To fix this problem I removed the Drag Link Arm and cleaned it very well to remove all the grease. Next I mix myself up a batch of JB Weld and fill the inside of the Drag Link Arm up to the Spiral Pin hole. Finally I put the Arm back on. The arm goes on hard because of the JB Weld but it does fix. Give it 24 hours and presto. No more sloppy steering. This worked so well on the one arm loader I have postponed the spindle upgrade.
All this talk about coiled pins and rolled pins got me thinking. I have fixed both of my 147's steering woes. As most of you NF owners out there know, your Drag Link Arm (item #8) can get very sloppy on your Left Hand Steering Knuckle (item #6). The sloppy connection causes sloppy steering and sometimes you will even loose your coiled pin.
To fix this problem I removed the Drag Link Arm and cleaned it very well to remove all the grease. Next I mix myself up a batch of JB Weld and fill the inside of the Drag Link Arm up to the Spiral Pin hole. Finally I put the Arm back on. The arm goes on hard because of the JB Weld but it does fix. Give it 24 hours and presto. No more sloppy steering. This worked so well on the one arm loader I have postponed the spindle upgrade.
Terry B.
Why not just drill both out to the next size bigger spirol pin and insert with a LFH.
Why not just drill both out to the next size bigger spirol pin and insert with a LFH.
Charlie,
The problem isn't really the pin. The pin is tight. The problem is that the Drag Link Arm is sloppy on top of the Spindle shaft. This causes the arm to rock slightly.
Another method I have heard of is to cut a slit into the Drag arm 90 degrees from the coiled pin holes. Then installing a bolt and tightening the heck out of it. I prefer my method. Its easier and doesn't require modifying the original equipment.
The problem isn't really the pin. The pin is tight. The problem is that the Drag Link Arm is sloppy on top of the Spindle shaft. This causes the arm to rock slightly.
Another method I have heard of is to cut a slit into the Drag arm 90 degrees from the coiled pin holes. Then installing a bolt and tightening the heck out of it. I prefer my method. Its easier and doesn't require modifying the original equipment.
