Archive through August 29, 2009

[mgonitzke]

Gary-

I don't quite know what you mean by "fix" it...it falls apart because it's worn out, so it needs to be replaced. There's no way around that.

Also, could you PLEASE take an extra 30 seconds and capitalize the first letter of each sentence, and at the very least, put end punctuation in? It's much easier to help when we don't have to read your post 3-4 times to figure out what you're saying. I don't mean to offend you or anyone else in any way, but as I said, it's much easier to help people when we can understand what you are saying. This goes for everybody, I'm in no way trying to single you out. Once again, please don't be offended or take this personally, it's just a friendly suggestion to help all of us help you and everyone else

 

[mdmyers]

Still banging my head on the 128 with ignition problems (intermittent spark). I suspect the voltage regulator but want to prove it before I shell out the dough to replace it. When at idle (that's all it will do), voltage across the battery terminals is 12.9 V, and 12.6 when it's off. So I figure it's a bad wire or a bad V/R. Some kind soul sent me a link (lost the email but thanks to whoever it was!) that says to disconnect the V/R and then jumper the BAT and FIELD wires together, then see if I get 16 volts across the battery when it idles (but not for too long). With the ignition off, I get a spark when I connect these - the field wire is grounded. I'm not sure that's supposed to happen. Is the field winding inside the motor/generator always grounded?

 

[aschumacher]

Mike M, yes one end is grounded.
Look here for a quick lesson on S/G's
www.simpletractors.com/service/electrics/starter-generator.htm

 

[aschumacher]

And while your in that area check out...
www.simpletractors.com/service/electrics/3_pole_regulators.htm

 

[rpalmer]

Mike Myers,

You need to check your voltage reading at a higher speed than idle. Generators are real lazy at idle speed.

You say"With the ignition off, I get a spark when I connect these - the field wire is grounded.

What do you mean it is grounded? It should run from the "F" (field) terminal on the generator to the "F" (field) terminal on the voltage regulator.

You DO NOT need to disconnect any wires at the voltage regulator to jump anything. And if you ever get a reading of 16 volts at idle your regulator is way way over charging. Try for 13.8 volts at 2000 rpms.

I hope this helps.

 

[rpalmer]

Allen Schumacher,
Cub Cadets use 2 pole regulators.

 

[bnolte]

Managed to get the grass cut today without blowing up my 125. I'm going to have to do something about that hard high back seat on it though.

The seat on my 102 project cleaned up nicely though, and so far the Shoe Goo seems to be holding up well. The secret is to taper the edge of a rubber patch out to a feather edge, that way it won't peel.

Although I'm putting a mower deck together for it, the 102 is just too pretty to mow with.

 

[rpalmer]

Bruce Nolte,
The 102 looks GREAT. Can I bring by my 104 for your treatment.

I cut grass today too. I got a wet behind when I sat down.

Then I cover it up and forgot to add a garbage bag over the seat. So maybe after my next wet seat, I'll remember.

 

[bnolte]

Richard,
There are some imperfections in the paint if you look closely, I just got tired of sanding at some point. I do think I'll go with Acrylic Enamel next time, the Alkyd enamel I used takes forever to get hard. I also learned to make effective use of Spot Putty when I painted the hood ... After I painted the yellow part.

 

[aschumacher]

Rich P. I guess your right with the poles, never really took count of the relays inside. I get confused with how many connectors there are on different regulators. The site I posted was more for the concept of how regulators work, rather than any specific one.

 

[rpalmer]

Bruce Nolte,
Next summer I have two (to start) hoods I'm going to work on. My plan is to use lead for a hinge and seam repair. If I don't get all wrapper up in it I'll take some pictures of the process. I have a 100 that is screaming for body putty and paint. But I have to rattle can it. It should still look better than it does now. But since my shop is the great outdoors... next year.

 

[pfunk]

Mike M. I wrote up some stuff I figured out when I was debugging a regulator problem. Look in my cubcadetman.com website under the checking a voltage regulator section. Hope it helps.

 

[rpalmer]

Paul E. Funk,
Your Mini 560 is too cool!

 

[jhokinson]

here are some pics for you guys

my 1963 origonal, my 1972 128 and my 1963 model 70 pulling tractor badged a 71. and an added bonus, my almost new 1963 town and country tires beside my like new 1960s vintage wards riverside ag tread

PICTURE 1
PICTURE 2
PICTURE 3
PICTURE 4
PICTURE 5
PICTURE 6

 

[rmclements]

Justin,

Nice looking line up of Cubs!

 

[jhokinson]

thanks, thats not the whole lineup though. the three others have engine problems

 

[lpalma]

here is my lineup!!

 

[jhokinson]

5 star lineup, too bad theres a wheel horse lol

 

[bnolte]

Richard P.
I probably would have been better off doing the other hood, despite the breakout at the hinge bolt.

I think this year, once I get the engine repaired and the hydraulics added to my 129, finish redoing the mower deck for the 102, clean up the snow blade, and putting new baffles on the decks of my other 2 cubs I'll be about caught up.

 

[rwilke]

Bruce N.,
- What size decks do you plan on installing new baffles on?

- Do you plan to weld them on or bolt them on?

- Will you make the baffles the same as OE or make them a tad taller/closer to the blade?

I've got two 42" decks that need new baffles.
Unless I hear of a better way, I think I'll make them taller and closer to the blade than OE (within 1/8" of the botom of the blade) and then bolt them on (as OE was) with little angle brackets so as not to have to weld to the deck and burn the paint off of the top side.

Ryan Wilke