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Archive through August 28, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Thanks Jim & Matt. It was making noise, chattering in mid stroke, but silent when fully engaged or disengaged. But the current situation is it is engaged and full pedal movement, lock to lock, will not disengage it. Dang near took out a fence, before I got it shut off. So the final word is, throwout bearing or rebuild clutch or both????? I will certianly bow to and appreciate your advise. There is not teacher like experience and it's a real waste to re-invent the wheel every time. Thanks again, Buck
 
Everett-

Both. I'd get a new friction disc, teaser spring and teaser spring spacer, t/o bearing, main spring, and spirol pins. You might need to make a new driveshaft as well. That chattering noise is probably a broken teaser spring. Bad bearings I've had will squeal. I think the wear area on the bearing will make noise if it is extremely worn as well.
 
Larry S:

This is what goes bad....
93394.jpg

This internal O Ring wears out and weeps oil up through the vent hole.

As previously stated, it is time for replacement.

These can be obtained from your local CC Dealer. Also from one of the Forum Sponsors.

You can also obtain these from:
L J Fluid Power Inc
10118 S M-43 Hwy
Delton MI 49046-9602

PHONE 269-623-4150
 
Hi all! Everett's question got me thinking- My 122 has a problem grinding when putting in gear. Often I can go to reverse before going to 2 and it goes right in. Put a new teaser spring about 2 years ago. What course of action would you suggest? Any thoughts? Thanks!! Dave in Marcellus
 
David P.-

The front part of the driveshaft that pilots in the bronze bushing in the clutch driver is probably full of dirt and binding up. You need to clean and re-lube that, and probably get a new bushing while you're in there.
 
David P..
I can't help ya dave....I'm a hydro man....

You may be getting some yellow paint wafting up the hill... The primer finally went on the 149 last night...
 
Does anyone have a picture of the attachment that fits to the rear of a Cub that resembles a wheelbarrow bed? If so would you post the picture?
 
James, here's a photo (and a close up) of one that Dale Merkle took at Red Power Round UP this year.

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Bryan, note the brackets for the lift arm on BOTH the Originals....
 
Thank you guys for the information on my weep relief valve. I will be either trying to replace the O ring or the valve. Larry
 
Larry:
Not sure if you are aware, but replacing the o-rings in the valves is involved - see Cubfaqs 55 and 56.. Got a metal lathe? Have at it !!!
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Matt- Thanks for the tip, once the cutting season is over I'll open her up and see what's going on in there. Dave
ps-Scott- I think I saw a '66 Fairlane over at Skanellus last monday night...
 
I'm new to this message board, joining because just a few days ago I acquired an abandoned 149 tractor with mower that's in bad shape and I was about to start parting it out but also now wondering if I would regret not restoring it. I expect it needs an engine overhaul and I don't know the condition of the hydraulics. But for occasional use as a mower and mostly just to have around to tinker with would I be better off restoring this one or parting her out and buying a different model? Opinions???
 
Bill B...

Welcome to the forum.... You'll find all of the resources and help that you will need right here... Some will tell you that they'll be right over to take that 149 off you hands....
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Seriously, once running, you'll never know how you got along without it... You can't kill those things... My 149 ran since new in '73, w/o much maintainence... On yours, you may try changing all fluids, tune up, and a quick once-over. Check out the FAQ's above, you'll find a lot of good advice up there. Also, please patronize the sponsors above... Send pics.....
 
Bill B,
Most people find the 149 desirable due to the standard features, like the hydraulics, before IH got into the rattling Quiet Lines.

Good Pics being posted, good progress on the K2K.
 
I have a Cub Original. It's been in our possession for years. My father, now deceased operated a lawn/garen tractor business part time out of our basement back in the 70's. He took in the Cub on a trade-in 15+/- years ago. Apparantly he knew way back then what a "find" the machine was. I worked with him many years tinkering on mowers, lawn/garden tractors. So, I've had the "fever" for a long time. I've spent a lot of sweat equity on this little jewel and got her running again. The tractor pops out of gear often though. I picked up an old manual from the local Cub Cadet dealer and researched the forum vault. Found there are supposed to be a spring and ball bearing on each side of the shifter rods. I ordered 2 balls and springs from Cun Cadet. They go in special holes in the tranny housing. The shifter rods have the "dimples" that I think are what holds it in gear once the springs, balls are installed. I'm assuming the spring goes in the hole first, then the ball.

Getting the spring in is no problem of course, but I can't compress the spring enough, get the ball to stay in to move the shifter rod back in position. For the life of me, I can figure out how to get the dang things installed. Already lost one ball(up in the air!).

The manual doesn't explain how to do it. I went thru endless seaches in the vault. Found a lot of references on the "poppet ball" and springs, but nothing that tells me how to install.

Sorry for being so windy here. But I'm trying to tempt some of you "been there/done that" guys to lend me some advice. Any of you fellows that's done this before and knows the "trick" in getting these installed would be greatly appreciated.
 
Morning all. Put the headlights in the 147 and planted 3 trees this fine morn.picked up my rebuilt .030 14 K from the shop and she will go back together on tue night after the holiday. the 149 will have new power. Have a ghreat day.
93459.jpg
 
Paul, i just went thru this a few months ago on my 100 (same internals as your O) what worked for me was inserting the spring first then the ball and using one end of my needle nose pliers to hold the ball down while inserting the shift fork rod as far over the ball as I could before removing the pliers, now carefully remove the pliers while holding pressure in on the fork rod so as not to lose your ball, have a hammer handy and lightly tap the rod into place. worked for me on the first try. good luck
 
Paul A:
Welcome to the forum, great history on your "O". Sounds like Parker has a method..

Don:
I've lost count of your cubs, but is that one 147 <u>with</u> and one <u>without</u> lights for night and day operation??
 
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