Archive through August 23, 2009

[lhinds]

I guess i need to do that again. Also i found more info.
14 hp short block #117112C92 (47 522 29)
Applies to engine spec. numbers 530456R91,545450R91 (60166), 60304C91(60226)
Now for the pictures. Hope this makes sense.

 

[jott]

Ryan W~.
Cub Cadet 147
Mfg month- April 1970
Tractor serial Number#2050041U341167*
Data plate- Riveted
Engine Model #A
Engine Spec #6099A
Engine Serial #2084976

 

[theaton]

Ryan W., my info as follows.
IH 147
Tractor serial # 2050041U336584
Engine K321A
Ser# 2061260
Spec#6099A
Info taken from riveted engine id tag.

 

[bnolte]

Got the decals on the 102 this morning

 

[mdmyers]

Kendell,
Thanks for the condenser-test link. Looks like the condenser is OK. But... I have a feeling that I am on the verge of a forehead-slapping moment... should I be seeing a spark at the points when they open?

 

[aschumacher]

Ryan W. Clarification...my 147 tractor was Dec 1971. And it got a used 2 year old motor when built!? Oh the pain of it all

 

[aschumacher]

Mike M. You might see a tiny spark when the points open, but no big arc. The condenser(capacitor) besides adding some punch to the coil is also supposed the help cut down on the arcing.

 

[bbrigham]

Dennis....Ya, I can imagine how Special they would price it. There is a company local to me that makes some of the custom billet aluminum parts, like mirrors, for Orange County Choppers. A guy I used to work with also built custom choppers so he submitted some drawings for a mirror to have his logo on them for bikes he built. They started at $350...depending how many he wanted made. They gave him the first one they did and it was real sweet but he decided not to have them done cause he wasn't going to have enough volume to bring the price down.

I did have plans to put an oil temp gauge on FrankenCub with the sender in the oil pan. I need to mill out a pan for it once I find a chunk big enough to make a 3" deep flat pan. Oil temp would be nice to know but I think cylinder head temp is more accurate so I'm not sure if I'm going for oil temp too or not. I did find a chunk of steel big enough but it would be a lot harder on the tooling than aluminum.

 

[dgallagher]

I am having very little success in removing the pulleys from the spindles on my 44" deck. I have used lots of PB, tapered shims and heat. I still can't get them to move. I have some Kroil on order. Any other ideas? Thanks

 

[rwilke]

Allen S.,
I don't know about your tractor getting a USED two-year old engine, but according to the data table the engine serial number indicates an engine made in 1970. So I suppose that could mean December, 1970. So if your tractor ID indicates it was built in December 1971, then I suppose that would indicate that the engine was at the IH factory 'on the shelf' for at least one-year anyway. However, I highly doubt that it was a USED engine. Regardless, I think the warranty has expired.....

Thanks, Allen!

Luther H.,
I don't know what to make of your 14HP short block #117112C92 (47 522 29), because that number doesn't fit the data specification format. However, if it indeed applies to the engine Spec. numbers 530456R91 (6099), 545450R91 (60166) and 60304C91(60226), then that supersedes the data table as the table indicates that the 6099 and the 60226 engines were 'universal service' or replacement engines and the 60166 was intended to go into a tractor. So, the most I can make out of it all is that your 14HP (K321) Universal Service (replacement) engine, but we don't have a manufacture date for it.
Thanks, Luther!

Josh O,
Engine Model #A ? - Is that all or can I assume it was stamped K321A?
Engine Spec #6099A - Indicating a replacement engine.
Engine Serial #2084976 - Indicating an engine production date of 1970, same year as your 147 tractor production date (Ser# -U341167 = April, 1970).
Thanks, Josh!

Todd H.,
Serial # 2061260 - Indicating an engine production date of 1970, same year as your 147 tractor production date.
Spec# 6099A - Indicating a replacement engine.
Tractor Serial # -U336584 - indicating a tractor production date of April 1970 (same month/year as Josh's listed above, less than 4,600 tractors apart!)
Thanks for your info, Todd!

--- The spreadsheet is growing!

Ryan Wilke

 

[rrschmitt]

David G,

Remove the self locking jamb nut on top of the pulley if you haven't done so already. Flip the deck over and remove the 3 nuts holding the bearing cup/cap assembly to the deck. This will allow you to remove the entire bearing/pulley assembly from the deck.

I'm assuming you have the early style one-piece bearing spindle assembly that IH used on the 44" decks. Remove the lower cup and the three carriage bolts in the upper cap. Next drop pulley and bearing back into the hole in the deck. You may need to put some blocks under the deck so the spindle end doesn't bottom out on the floor. The pulley will now be resting on the deck and upper cap. Find a socket or bushing that fits over the grease zerk but has an outside diameter that is smaller than the spindle bearing shaft diameter. Gently tap the socket or bushing with a hammer to drive the spindle shaft out. If shaft is really stuck, you will have to take the lower caps and place them upside down on the top of the deck and slide an attach flange under the pulley and butt them up to the upper cap flange so the pulley is fully supported all the way around to keep from damaging your pulley. I have good success using this method. Hope this helps.

 

[fsnerd]

Wayne Shytle (Wshytle) -
concerning your post about the annoying racket on the parts look up.

I have no idea what advertising guy dreamed that one up. I expect that from those scary emails people send you around Halloween where you are watching something peaceful and the scary guy jumps up screaming.

I too, have learned to mute it before the explosion.

 

[bnolte]

Brendan,
I remember having an outboard motor once with a temperature sensor mounted on the cylinder head that ran an idiot light on the dash. I sure could have used something like that yesterday when mowing with the 129. Haven't pulled it apart yet, except for the cylinder head, but it got pretty hot and lost compression during a long uphill pull through heavy grass. Valves, cylinder head/gasket, piston crown, and bore seem to be okay, so I'm thinking a broken ring, but I won't know until I pop the piston out of the barrel.

 

[bbrigham]

The only problem with those are the senders are for liquid cooled engines. I have wondered if one of those sensors were epoxied between two cooling fins, would it show temperature correctly ? Might be worth a try, I do have a small gauge somewhere......

Could you have warped the head enough during the uphill pull ? I had a 10hp head that got extremely warped, you could look down the fins and they all waved. I should have taken pics of it but was too busy with other things and just forgot about it. It did clean up nicely though and sealed well, still waving though.

 

[jott]

Ryan W; yes, K321A. when you say replacment engine do you mean the engine was a part of a whole group there were just used up by putting them in tractors....OR does it mean the specific engine replaced the previous or original engine? Are you going to post your spreadsheet when you are done with it?

 

[kide]

Bruce:
You may have had the exhaust valve hang open - they're known for doing that when hot (one of the initial reasons for a little MMO). If the timing was off or ya got a rat's nest in the shroud, or yer burnin' kerosene.....

 

[jott]

Ryan W, also, are these engines with the dual dipsticks rare? I know you are trying to see if there is a pattern within the types of engines, But i was just wondering. I personally have never seen another one besides my 147. i just assumed that the 14 HP kolhers had them because they were higher in HP.

 

[dclinansmith]

Ryan W. I have a 147 with the dual tube engine.
Tractor SN 2050041U354424 Aug. 1970
Engine K321A Steel Data Plate riveted on.
Engine SN 2169572 Year Mfg. 1970 If I read the chart correctly. Engine Spec. 6099A

 

[wmiller]

Josh, My original operators manual,which covers all models in that series,shows all models except 147,to have the single long dip stick and the 147 is shown as having the two dipsticks (Illust. 29,29A and 29B). WHen you have balance gears you can't have a long stick in the tube by the generator. The 147 engine came with balance gears,the smaller engines did not. Factory replacement 12hp engines,like the one in my 126 came with balance gears. My factory replacement engine in my 126 has only one dip stick on the cam gear cover and it is not the same style as the one on the 147 cam gear cover. The cam gear cover on my 126 has a dipstick and tube similiar to the long type,only about 6-8" long. The hole for the other long tube is not used. My 1970 "Parts and Accesories" pocket catalogue says that a 12 hp complete replacement engine was $277.06!

 

[bnolte]

Brendan and Kendall,
The head gasket was intact and undamaged. I will definitely see if the exhaust valve was hanging open, but my dad saw smoke coming from the breather when I tried to restart the engine after a brief cool down. There was a little grass under the tins on top of the head. I had the shroud off last year to replace the flywheel screen and didn't see much in there then.

The engine was going to come out anyway to do work on adding the Hydro lift to it, so I might as well get it up on the stand and give it a good going over. I still have the 125 to cut grass with, so I can afford to be without it for a while as long as the lawn doesn't turn into a jungle.

Kendall,
Those sensors generally mounted into a hole on an ear cast into the head. One trick might be to modify the cover plate where the fuel pump would go to accept a sensor of this type, and wire it to the ignition circuit. There the sensor would be exposed continuously to the oil inside the engine, and would more or less accurately measure the temperature of the oil in the pan, whether you went with a gauge or an idiot light. An electronics parts catalog like Mouser might yield sensors of different temperature thresholds. I consulted my dad, who worked with diesel engines and heavy duty transmissions for most of his working life, and he indicated that 260 degrees is about where you want to have your warning threshold at.