Archive through August 16, 2009

[bnolte]

Wayne,
Thanks for your vote of confidence regarding the steering bushing temporary repair.

My first attempt at repairing the rubber seat on my 102 ended in frustration. I obtained a can of chemical vulcanizing compound and made a bunch of concentric patches using the neoprene diaphragm material. I tapered and rounded the edges of the patches and the damaged area, and waited for the recommended time between layers (I built up about 5 layers), and waited about an hour before attempting to reassemble the seat, but as I had feared, the neoprene peeled back from the rubber, and the neoprene would peel away from itself without much difficulty.

I guess the neoprene doesn't vulcanize very well, and on top of that the difference in Modulus of Elasticity (stretchiness for you non engineering types) meant that the rubber didn't really move as one piece when I stretched it. On my second attempt, I will try to obtain some more ordinary type of rubber that will be stretchier and bond to the base rubber better.

 

[tdaugherty]

The bushing only pops out when i turn to the left. Right turns make it sorta pop back into place. I'll check it out.

 

[wshytle]

OK guys, here's another question of elementary knowledge. I just obtained a 108 and the engine has been changed. It's suppose to be a K-241 but looks like a K-301 12hp. The little sticker below and to the right of the carb is unreadable and there is no other means I can see to id it. What, or how can I determine the model of this engine. I feel I should know this but this is my first 10hp tractor. All of the others are 12 and 14. Thanks, Wayne

 

[mgonitzke]

Wayne-

The 10 hp has a flat oil pan, and the 12 has a deep sump pan. However, the only way to positively ID it is to remove the head and measure the bore, as oil pans get swapped around sometimes.

 

[rhickey]

Bruce Nolte

There is/was a product for repairing automotive foam rubber door seals available from autobody supply shops.
It came in a tube (large toothpaste size).
As I recall, the part was to be cleaned with acetone or lacquer thinner before application.
It would tear the seals before pulling loose.
We also used it to glue the weather-stripping to the car, the stuff would stick !!
It may or may not work on the seat cover, If it is 'foam rubber' as it appears, I think it would.
I used to complain about the price, but we used a lot of it.

 

[dross]

Tim, Your steering shaft backs out because the top bearing has failed. It only happens when you turn left becuse of the twist in the steering shaft, it only does it sometimes because you have steel ball bearings floating around in that alluminum housing.

 

[tgue]

Hello there I am new to the Cub cadet world. I purchased a Cub Cadet 127 hydro that i need some help with. It didn't have a motor on in i bought the correct motor but i am not sure how the motor connects to drive shaft. if anyone has a pic to show me i would appreciate it. Thanks Tom.

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Matt.

I have another major concern with this tractor. The shifter is very sloppy. You can find the gears but let the clutch out slow. I was trying it out after getting it home and ended up doing some high gear mowing. My main concern is metal in the gear box. Any broken pins or fasteners have to be in there I guess so... What would cause the slop and is this an easy fix (after exposing the shifter base)?
Thanks to any and all, Wayne

 

[mgonitzke]

Wayne-

There won't be any shrapnel in there as a result of the shifter...90% of the parts are external to the shifter. If it breaks, you'll know...

The wear is probably the little slot in #3 and the roll pin that it pivots on in #8. #10 may also be worn. You can remove the shifter, drive out #2, which I think is a tapered pin, meaning it'll only go in/come out one direction. Examine it closely, and you should be able to see one end of it peened over from a hammer. Drive it out with a small punch from the opposite side (using a vice-grip to compress the spring out of the way) and then you can pull off #s 4-7 and remove #10 with a slide hammer to remove the shifter itself from the base plate, at which point you should be able to see what's going on in there.

 

[tdaugherty]

I hope that bushing in my 124's wheel is easy to replace. I got a light kit out of a cub 122 in my 124, and at least that works