lpalma
Well-known member
Good cub hunting picked up 3 71's today,pictures to follow...That is one nice looking 124.Don't paint it!!!
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Archive through August 11, 2010
- Thread starter lpalma
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Sean - <font size="+2">WOW!!!!</font> That's a much better pic. I can see the hood gloss. And the tires look great so don't bother changing them, just fix which ever one has the problem. Even the hood hinges look good. I guess I wouldn't paint it - except the gas tank you just mentioned. You definitely want to get the correct IH CC yellow. Be interesting to see how well it matches. Even the wheels don't look chipped at all and I don't see any rust. They'll probably clean up and be glossy just like the hood. Say how bout that battery box tho??? How did that look, and the sides of the dash tower???
Honestly I'm surprised you didn't get a few smart remarks from some of the guys (myself included) that suggested it wasn't worth doing anything with, and just send us your address and we'll be right there to pick it up. Even ME, and I'm in Seattle about 4000 miles from you.
Keep us filled in as you work things over. I do think I'd strongly consider a llitle grease on the shaft where the clutch teeser spring is, and greasing the front wheel bearing. After sitting 15 years I would think the grease would be all dried up/out. Probably the front PTO bearing as well. Ah heck, you're gonna have so many problems with it, go ahead and send me your address and I'll be there to pick it up next week.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and somtimes they even look really great after sitting along time)
Honestly I'm surprised you didn't get a few smart remarks from some of the guys (myself included) that suggested it wasn't worth doing anything with, and just send us your address and we'll be right there to pick it up. Even ME, and I'm in Seattle about 4000 miles from you.
Keep us filled in as you work things over. I do think I'd strongly consider a llitle grease on the shaft where the clutch teeser spring is, and greasing the front wheel bearing. After sitting 15 years I would think the grease would be all dried up/out. Probably the front PTO bearing as well. Ah heck, you're gonna have so many problems with it, go ahead and send me your address and I'll be there to pick it up next week.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and somtimes they even look really great after sitting along time)
Sean, Kevin,
I would go easy using any rubbing compound or abrasive cleaners. You are dealing with some 40+ year old enamel paint that is not very thick and does not have any primer under it. It is not a modern, high quality automotive paint, and it never had a high gloss or shine to it even when it was new, and probably won't even with the modern compounds and or polishes. Wash any dirt/grime off and apply a coat of wax and it will look like it did when it left the factory.
I would go easy using any rubbing compound or abrasive cleaners. You are dealing with some 40+ year old enamel paint that is not very thick and does not have any primer under it. It is not a modern, high quality automotive paint, and it never had a high gloss or shine to it even when it was new, and probably won't even with the modern compounds and or polishes. Wash any dirt/grime off and apply a coat of wax and it will look like it did when it left the factory.
kphill
Well-known member
Paul, That 40 year old paint is hard as a rock, and there is a heavy layer of dead paint on top,Plus hand rubbing takes very little off..Just be careful
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I've done a couple dozen tractors by hand with rubbing compound and never rubbed a hole through the paint. Kevin's right, that paint is HARD...
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Ok guys, now I need a little help. I'm finally getting around to restoring the mule drive and sub-frame for my 44A deck to use on my 169. Of course it's not the original mule drive but I'm certain it for a wide frame. I've got a few questions.
1st, since I've got a 44A deck, can you tell if this is the correct lift fork part of the sub-frame?? I was thinking that plate between the lift fork was a little small, but the front forks have the cut downs which I believe are for a 44A (or even a 50A). I was thinking the 38A used straight flat forks that connect to the front of the mowing deck. I'll attach a partial pic of the cut out in the fork so you can see it isn't flat across the top (has the cut down).
2nd, the holes in the sub-frame where the lift fork mounts are not centered. On the left side the hole is drilled toward the bottom of the sub-frame, and on the right it's centered. I don't recall having one this way before, but I might not have noticed. I recall the lift arms on my 1450 tractor were not even so off setting the holes for this may have been a method to actually allow the deck to be closer to level. Am I way off here??? Is the hole on the left side of the sub-frame incorrect??? Did I happen to pick up a factory 2nd sub-frame. Sure would be nice if you guys with 44 or 44A decks could check the hole location on the left side of your sub-frame. Posting a couple pics or yours would be nice as well. I'll post the pics of mine below if my images are to many KB. (they'll probably be tiny if I have to resize them).
Thanks for your help guys.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and occasionally some parts get mixed up)
1st, since I've got a 44A deck, can you tell if this is the correct lift fork part of the sub-frame?? I was thinking that plate between the lift fork was a little small, but the front forks have the cut downs which I believe are for a 44A (or even a 50A). I was thinking the 38A used straight flat forks that connect to the front of the mowing deck. I'll attach a partial pic of the cut out in the fork so you can see it isn't flat across the top (has the cut down).
2nd, the holes in the sub-frame where the lift fork mounts are not centered. On the left side the hole is drilled toward the bottom of the sub-frame, and on the right it's centered. I don't recall having one this way before, but I might not have noticed. I recall the lift arms on my 1450 tractor were not even so off setting the holes for this may have been a method to actually allow the deck to be closer to level. Am I way off here??? Is the hole on the left side of the sub-frame incorrect??? Did I happen to pick up a factory 2nd sub-frame. Sure would be nice if you guys with 44 or 44A decks could check the hole location on the left side of your sub-frame. Posting a couple pics or yours would be nice as well. I'll post the pics of mine below if my images are to many KB. (they'll probably be tiny if I have to resize them).
Thanks for your help guys.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and occasionally some parts get mixed up)
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Here's the pic of the front of the lift fork so you can see its got the cut down area. This sure seems like it would be the correct fork for a 44A deck, but that plate in the middle of the fork just seems so small (at least in my memory).
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes you run out of time to edit pics)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes you run out of time to edit pics)
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Harry: That looks just like the undercarriage from a 1250 that I have, here (looks different without the mule drive).
Peter: Pics at 100 for guys like me on dialup. Your 123 still looks good. Those front tri-ribs sure help the steering.
Peter: Pics at 100 for guys like me on dialup. Your 123 still looks good. Those front tri-ribs sure help the steering.
kphill
Well-known member
Harry, Here are some pics of the sub-frame on my 169..I am guessing it was the one that came with it as it was used for lawn duty its whole life.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Harry,
You have the correct frame.
Before painting it, be sure to check the deck for level on the tractor. You may have to bend the "pickle fork" to helplift the front of the deck up further to get it within the adjustment range of the eyebolts. If you don't, your deck may run downhill even with the eyebolts drawn all the way up.
Kraig, do you have any of my pics on hand that would help explain what I just typed to Harry? TIA
You have the correct frame.
Before painting it, be sure to check the deck for level on the tractor. You may have to bend the "pickle fork" to helplift the front of the deck up further to get it within the adjustment range of the eyebolts. If you don't, your deck may run downhill even with the eyebolts drawn all the way up.
Kraig, do you have any of my pics on hand that would help explain what I just typed to Harry? TIA
Steve, you mean these? Along with some text you've posted in the past:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
To fix a "nose down" deck you need to remove the portion of the subframe that engages the eyebolts and the tractor's cross shaft (the pickle fork part). This needs to be bent upwards as shown in the picture to increase the lift on the front eyes. Heat the "pickle fork" about 2/3 of the way from the end with a torch and bend it as shown (the keystock is the original "straight" part and is there to demonstrate the bend).<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
This tiny little adjustment (along with the rebuild of the pickle fork prongs and build-up of the tractor shaft) changed "no thread left" to "fully adjustable". Hope this helps explain the fix<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
To fix a "nose down" deck you need to remove the portion of the subframe that engages the eyebolts and the tractor's cross shaft (the pickle fork part). This needs to be bent upwards as shown in the picture to increase the lift on the front eyes. Heat the "pickle fork" about 2/3 of the way from the end with a torch and bend it as shown (the keystock is the original "straight" part and is there to demonstrate the bend).<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
This tiny little adjustment (along with the rebuild of the pickle fork prongs and build-up of the tractor shaft) changed "no thread left" to "fully adjustable". Hope this helps explain the fix<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
hydroharry
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Frank, Kevin, Kraig and Steve - thanks so much for all that help. I see in Kevin's pics that left side mounting hole is lower on the left side. And Steve, that's great info on the fork arm. I've always had that adjustment trouble. I'll have to study your fix and may need a little more detail. Thanks again to all.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes their forks need help)
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and sometimes their forks need help)
PAUL B. - Actually, I've had pretty good luck getting IH paint to shine, even rattle-can paint. I'd use POLISHING Coumpound instead of rubbing compound, finer abrasive and not as agressive, reduces the chance of going thru the color, less chance of swirl marks.
Especially on a tractor as well maintained as Sean's, there should be enough good paint under the dead surface to shine up nicely.
MATT G. - If you REALLY want to go thru the color coat you should use a power polisher. SON's '93 Lightning p/u had a frt fender replaced before he got it. The '93 L's were not clear-coated but for some reason the body shop base coat/clear-coated the passenger side fender and door when they repainted it. The hood, top of the cab, left fender etc. has been buffed, polished, rubbed, waxed clear thru the color into the e-coat primer and still won't shine. The rest of the truck actually looks pretty good for being seventeen yrs old.
DAVE R. - I went out & checked both my K181's, later vintage than a K161 from a 70 but they both have fuel pump block-off plates. Right straight down from the carb and right below the breather cover. Same plate as a K241/301/etc has. I suspect there's some later vintage K161's with them as well.
Especially on a tractor as well maintained as Sean's, there should be enough good paint under the dead surface to shine up nicely.
MATT G. - If you REALLY want to go thru the color coat you should use a power polisher. SON's '93 Lightning p/u had a frt fender replaced before he got it. The '93 L's were not clear-coated but for some reason the body shop base coat/clear-coated the passenger side fender and door when they repainted it. The hood, top of the cab, left fender etc. has been buffed, polished, rubbed, waxed clear thru the color into the e-coat primer and still won't shine. The rest of the truck actually looks pretty good for being seventeen yrs old.
DAVE R. - I went out & checked both my K181's, later vintage than a K161 from a 70 but they both have fuel pump block-off plates. Right straight down from the carb and right below the breather cover. Same plate as a K241/301/etc has. I suspect there's some later vintage K161's with them as well.
Dennis, yep thats where it is. Nothing about this gave any indication it was a replacement engine, I got that far putting it together this morning and it got to bugging me, thought I'd throw out a question. thanks.
DAVE - I don't have the official Kohler parts books, just the IH books, but I don't think CC's used engnes with fuel pump style blocks until about the X06/X07 series. The K321 I bought from Don Vogt that's in my 72 was out of a 147 and it has the pump boss. Seems to me the K301 that was in my old 129 had the boss also, but pretty sure it wasn't the first engine in that tractor.....might have been the 3rd or 4th!
I think my K241 was the factory engine in a 104 Dad bought as a spare mowing tractor in about '80 or so. It doesn't have a fuel pump boss. I would also suspect the cams for those old engines also don't have the lobe to run the pump on them either. I should have checked the cam for the K241 when I was out there 2 hrs ago.
I think my K241 was the factory engine in a 104 Dad bought as a spare mowing tractor in about '80 or so. It doesn't have a fuel pump boss. I would also suspect the cams for those old engines also don't have the lobe to run the pump on them either. I should have checked the cam for the K241 when I was out there 2 hrs ago.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Norm-
Right or wrong, I just hit it with the electric impact...has always worked for me.
Right or wrong, I just hit it with the electric impact...has always worked for me.
