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Archive through August 07, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Doug-

Here's an idea. Try putting some air pressure on the fuel line making sure there's fuel in the line. Maybe then you will be able to see where the leak is coming from. I guess it would be best with the carb installed or at least in the upright position. I wouldn't use much pressure either to avoid doing any damage if possible.

I really would like for you to find this leak for GP if nothing else.

That's the other pennies worth.

.
 
Doug - I've never had a float with the 2nd tab so I really don't know what its for but believe the Service Manual shows it. Maybe you could switch back to the single tab float and try again.

Thurman - please keep all the BFH's in the next room for safety purposes. There is already a great tenancy to turn these carbs into baseballs but please don't.

We're all frustrated talking about these problems not being solved. I suspect eventually you and Doug will fix the leaky problem, and you won't know what you did that fixed it - it just stopped leaking.

At this point it's "try anything to see if it works". I'd even turn the hinge pin around to make sure it's not allowing the float to drop and bind so it can't move. Also, I'd check those little hinges on the float where the hinge pin slides thru. If they are to far open they could allow the float to slip and bind. We're getting into pretty minute guesses here but it could be anything.
 
Doug,
I may have the solution,gas is definitely coming out of the little hole in the bowl vent,or is it coming out of the main jet venturi?Run a thin into the vent hole and see if that solves the problem.
 
149 seat pan is at upholstery shop. Dropped it off on way home from work ystrday! Had a few quotes/estimates from several different shops in my area. Sent out several e-mails w/ pics and measurements of pan. I ended up getting 3 shops to reply w/ quotes ranging from $240, $150, & $85........
Since 149 is a worker I went with the $85 quote. If had of been a full blown restoration may have considered a higher quote with more input as far as the actual original material, design, and padding formation. But $85 seemed fair for 2" padding and black vinyl. Shop owner said they have a few projects ahead of me that it might be a week or "two"
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. As soon as those words came out of his mouth all I could envision is a rapid time lapse image of my grass growing to bush hog height!!!! But that brief moment of horror was short lived soon as I Realized parts 1250
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Having a "parts" tractor sure does come in handy......





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This was brought up by another member already but seems like it was passed over. When I look at the picture of the carburetor that Doug posted I don't see the brass seat where the needle should sit next to where the float goes. Where is the brass seat? Did you take it out for the photo? Or is that what you been working?
 
Doug,

I think Lew might mean a thin wire. I have several small gage copper wires in my carb repair kit to clean the small passages.

At this at this point I would mount the carb to something that I could place in my vise (2x4) and hook up a temporary fluid supply or a less volatile liquid than gasoline, kerosene fumes are not flammable.

This would be so I could get a closer look at the carb and actuate the float up and down to see if the fluid (fuel) flow shuts off.

I noticed the float is not parallel with the bowl seat surface in the picture. Might not be an issue, but I have always made them level/parallel.

Jim
 
Also check the bowl vent passage (in the carb body) for blockage. If the float chamber can't vent to atmosphere, an air lock forms and fuel will run out of the main jet.
 
Jim- I set the float lower to see if that would shut the fuel off. It didn't work. With the carb mounted on the engine and the float bowl off (with a drip pan of course) I can manipulate the float and the fuel will shut off. I do it as lightly as I can but someone mentioned that finger pressure may be more than the pressure generated by the fuel lifting the float and may not be a good indicator.
 

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