David, the rear PTO on Cub Cadet Garden Tractors was/is pretty much useless. Haban did make a CAT-0 version of their sickle mower that would work on a 982/1872/2072 and so on, Super Garden Tractor with the 2000RPM rear PTO.
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Archive through August 05, 2009
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
here i am again with my 128.
at least it is no longer a stalling problem, now it is a no spark problem.
in trying to find a stalling problem i removed the points, inspected, put back in, gapped, and tried to do the timing with a light.
tractor ran worse and worse, i tried readjusting points, finally, it would not start.
timing was way off.
timing light would sometimes skip
no spark at plug or coil wire when held to a ground.
i gapped the points by loosening the screw, placing a feeler gage in between the contacts, then tightening the screw. so the gap should be very close, right?
i am thinking of replacing the wiring harness, many wires are frayed, so it needs it anyway.
i also noticed the voltage regulator is rusted at the wiring terminals, so i will replace that too.
my question is, do you think this is a good idea, or should i check something else first?
points and coil are new.
at least it is no longer a stalling problem, now it is a no spark problem.
in trying to find a stalling problem i removed the points, inspected, put back in, gapped, and tried to do the timing with a light.
tractor ran worse and worse, i tried readjusting points, finally, it would not start.
timing was way off.
timing light would sometimes skip
no spark at plug or coil wire when held to a ground.
i gapped the points by loosening the screw, placing a feeler gage in between the contacts, then tightening the screw. so the gap should be very close, right?
i am thinking of replacing the wiring harness, many wires are frayed, so it needs it anyway.
i also noticed the voltage regulator is rusted at the wiring terminals, so i will replace that too.
my question is, do you think this is a good idea, or should i check something else first?
points and coil are new.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Frank-
Do you have 12V at the coil? If your wiring is bad, your ignition switch probably isn't good either. Check out your ignition switch. I wouldn't replace the VR unless it stops working and adjustment doesn't help. You wouldn't believe how rusty and ugly some of my functioning VRs are.
Do you have 12V at the coil? If your wiring is bad, your ignition switch probably isn't good either. Check out your ignition switch. I wouldn't replace the VR unless it stops working and adjustment doesn't help. You wouldn't believe how rusty and ugly some of my functioning VRs are.
i do not have a 12V tester, but i do have a 12V light. light does not light when wire is touched to + side of coil, both in "on" and "start".
the light should light, correct? i will remove the ignition switch and see if i can jump it.
the light should light, correct? i will remove the ignition switch and see if i can jump it.
behrenreich
New member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2009
- Messages
- 2
- displayname
- Brandon Ehrenreich
I just recently purchased my first IH cub. It is a model 127 with a 12hp Kohler. I did a compression test on it and got about 50psi, which I thought was low. My question is how much psi of compression should a K301A have? I already pulled the engine, ground the valve seats, cleaned out all the carbon, and put everything back together, painted it up, and got it running again but I still have around 50 psi. Did I waste my time?
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Brandon: Welcome!! (Cliparts not working) Janesville, Wisconsin -- ah the good old Navy EM School days with weekends spent with friends in Whitewater!
But I digress. No, you didn't waste your time. ACR = Automatic Compression Release. Stick around, lurk a lot if necessary, check out the FAQs (especially cubfaq.com). Congrats on the 127 and finding this forum. :>}
But I digress. No, you didn't waste your time. ACR = Automatic Compression Release. Stick around, lurk a lot if necessary, check out the FAQs (especially cubfaq.com). Congrats on the 127 and finding this forum. :>}
behrenreich
New member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2009
- Messages
- 2
- displayname
- Brandon Ehrenreich
Well I got it running good again. I sanded and painted the body and frame with the original colors, put in a new spark plug and air filter, cleaned out the fuel line, tank, and carb, and put a new seat cover on it. When I bought it, I was able to push it in neutral, but now even when it is in neutral with the brake off, it won't move. It goes into gear when it is running, but as for moving it without starting it, it doesn't go so well. What could be causing it to not go into neutral? Also, is $100 a good deal on a 127 that ran fine when I bought it and was complete, not rusted out(only some surface rust) and only needing a tune up and a new seat?
Brandon E.
Sounds like you did all right on that one. As far as being able to push it in neutral, you probably have some slop in the linkage that lets the control valve to open slightly in one direction or another. Then the mechanical advantage works against you (think of trying to push start a 4wd truck with the transmission in 1st gear low range). There should be a release lever on the right side of the tunnel that lets you relieve the pressure and lets you push it along for a short distance.
Don't rub it in too much, even though someone GAVE me a running 125 a few weeks ago. I've given it a little TLC since I've acquired it, but I cut grass with it pretty much as I got it. OTOH, I ended up paying top dollar for a pretty well picked over 1650 that I want to transplant the hydraulic lift from into my 129.
Sounds like you did all right on that one. As far as being able to push it in neutral, you probably have some slop in the linkage that lets the control valve to open slightly in one direction or another. Then the mechanical advantage works against you (think of trying to push start a 4wd truck with the transmission in 1st gear low range). There should be a release lever on the right side of the tunnel that lets you relieve the pressure and lets you push it along for a short distance.
Don't rub it in too much, even though someone GAVE me a running 125 a few weeks ago. I've given it a little TLC since I've acquired it, but I cut grass with it pretty much as I got it. OTOH, I ended up paying top dollar for a pretty well picked over 1650 that I want to transplant the hydraulic lift from into my 129.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I put an external brake rearend in my 582, and the brake pads were shot. Today, I relined them. It's easy and cheap with some material from McMaster Carr. It's part number 6175K119 which is 3/16" thick by 3" wide. It's currently $6.96/ft. One foot will do one tractor and leave some left over. I bought 3 feet, as several of my tractors have worn brakes.
Step 1: Remove the old lining. There are several styles of external brakes used on the IH and MTD built tractors. This IH rear that I believe was originally in a 126 has holes in the backing metal part of the pads. I knocked out the pad material in the holes. I scraped as much of the old pad off as I could with a razor blade, and then I soaked them in a 50% solution of muriatic acid for 1 hour. The acid helps soften the adhesive so you can scrape the rest off with the razor blade. One pad had a really hard spot that I had to chip off with a chisel.
Step 2: Cut lining
It's easy to cut the brake lining with a utility knife. Each pad needs a piece 1.5" x 4". Four pieces are needed.
Step 3: Prepare the backing plates
After cleaning all the old lining and adhesive, I cleaned the backing plates with mineral spirits, and then applied the adhesive pictured to the lining, and then spread it into a thin layer on the back of the lining. I put plastic from a Wally World bag between the pads so they wouldn't stick together, and then I clamped them very tightly in a vise for an hour.
Step 4: Paint and install
I splattered some cheap primer and black paint on the back of the backing plates to keep them from rusting. I then installed them on the tractor.
Side note: 3/16" material is ever so slightly too thick. It was difficult reinstalling the pads, and I had to drive the tractor a bit to wear the pads a bit so that the wheels would turn easily. They'll loosen up eventually. I haven't installed one side yet as the paint wasn't dry. I may try planing 1/16" off or so to make them fit looser.
Step 1: Remove the old lining. There are several styles of external brakes used on the IH and MTD built tractors. This IH rear that I believe was originally in a 126 has holes in the backing metal part of the pads. I knocked out the pad material in the holes. I scraped as much of the old pad off as I could with a razor blade, and then I soaked them in a 50% solution of muriatic acid for 1 hour. The acid helps soften the adhesive so you can scrape the rest off with the razor blade. One pad had a really hard spot that I had to chip off with a chisel.
Step 2: Cut lining
It's easy to cut the brake lining with a utility knife. Each pad needs a piece 1.5" x 4". Four pieces are needed.
Step 3: Prepare the backing plates
After cleaning all the old lining and adhesive, I cleaned the backing plates with mineral spirits, and then applied the adhesive pictured to the lining, and then spread it into a thin layer on the back of the lining. I put plastic from a Wally World bag between the pads so they wouldn't stick together, and then I clamped them very tightly in a vise for an hour.
Step 4: Paint and install
I splattered some cheap primer and black paint on the back of the backing plates to keep them from rusting. I then installed them on the tractor.
Side note: 3/16" material is ever so slightly too thick. It was difficult reinstalling the pads, and I had to drive the tractor a bit to wear the pads a bit so that the wheels would turn easily. They'll loosen up eventually. I haven't installed one side yet as the paint wasn't dry. I may try planing 1/16" off or so to make them fit looser.
Frank S. You should have 12 volts on the negative side of the coil with the points open and 0 volts when the points close. So, your test light should light with the points open and go out with the points closed. The points are supposed to ground the negative side of the coil. If the voltage doesn't go to zero you're not getting contact through your points. In that case, drag a dollar bill through them and see if that helps.
