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Archive through August 01, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Matt:
I don't believe the SG shaft is that hard...
Here's what I usually use to clean bunged up male threads (thread chasing file)..
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Brad, did you release the tensioner arm on the mule drive after you put the belt on?
 
Due to all the thunderstorm rain this week, the grass grew quite a bit, and one of my coworkers and one of my best friends were both hit by tornadoes this week, so my chainsaw is on loan right now, and thankfully both of them and their houses are ok, except for all of the new firewood laying on the ground, but we've had some pretty wild weather here in the Mid-Atlantic this week.

Enough about the weather, but with all of the fresh growth, I decided to do the whole lawn this week with the 125 to really try her out and compare notes with my 129, which really has been my workhorse around here. I did a bit of mowing with it before, and my Dad cut the entire back yard with it last week, about an acre of grass, but the grass was dry and light. This was the perfect chance to compare them head to head.

The first thing I noticed when I filled the tank with gas and checked the oil was that the oil was almost down to the add mark. I filled the crankcase but made a note of it. I had caught a whiff of blowby in earlier excursions, and a slight puff of smoke when I started it up. Nonetheless, the engine was run hard and ran well for the 2 hours and 15 minutes it took to mow the lawn. I can knock out the lawn under similar conditions in about 2 hours with the 129, but it has a 48 inch deck, rather than the 42 on my 125.

Speaking of mower decks, one thing I needed to get used to on the 125 was the fact that the mower deck doesn't stick out as far to the side, and I have to crane my neck a bit to see exactly where the edge of the deck is when working along a fence or other border areas. I took out 2 boards on my neighbors fence, but repaired them before he suspected a thing. I think the 129 has a slight edge here.

One thing I did like about the 125 is I can get closer to my line of Leyland Cypress without having to worry about the branches pulling the PTO lever to the off position as frequently happens with my 129 when I get in close. Cut quality was about the same, though I have my default cut height on the 129 preset, I use a detent on the 125 or else it cuts too short.

Both the 125 and the 129 have issues with the linkages on the Hydro units, and it seems like the friction control on the Hydro lever needs to be adjusted on the 125, the linkage needs lubrication, and the trunion needs to be welded up and tightened up. The steering box and linkages were surprisingly tight as in not very sloppy for a more or less original looking 125, which I am pleased about, but the steering seemed to stiffen up as I got within a half a turn of lock. I probably need to pull the steering box and go over it, but I think all it really needs is a good cleaning out and repacking with grease, with perhaps the plate straightened a bit and other minor adjustments as well.

As the grass cutting wore on, I noticed that the engine didn't have quite as much "guts" as my 129 when it got into the heavy stuff or climbing hills, despite the fact that it didn't have 100 extra pounds of wheel weights on it and a smaller mower deck. I noticed the smell of blowby as well when the going got tough. My suspicions that the engine wasn't quite as fresh as I initially thought were confirmed when I looked at the dipstick when I got back to the garage. In 2 hours of mowing, it used a little more than half a pint of oil, a good bit more than my 129, which doesn't use that much oil in a month.

Mechanical condition being equal between the 125 and the 129, I would have to give the 129 a slight edge over the 125, but both are more pleasant to mow with than the Simplicity Sunrunner I have.

The 125 is going to need a good going over. Although the engine could probably go a few more seasons, its probably a good idea to pull it out after mowing season and freshen it up a bit with a light honing, some new rings, and a good valve lapping. Hopefully the bore will still be within or at least pretty close to being within tolerance. That's the main thing,

I've already covered the steering and the hydro linkage issues, and really, there isn't a whole lot else wrong with it.
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One more thing, but this is 102 related. I decided to go with Ag tread front tires on the 102, and ordered them today. Like to find some similar Ag tires for the back, but the 6-12 turf tires are fine for now.
 
Adrian,
I had released the tension on the belt, I took the belt, and the under carriage off last fall. I planned on just using this 1450 as my "utility Tractor" to plow and disc the garden, and then use the front blade for plowing snow, etc. I never had taken the PTO off. This weekend, my other tractor that I mow with had a pulley sieze up. I thought I would put the deck back on the 1450 to finish up the last 2 acres. got the deck on, tightened the belt, started up and flipped the switch and nothing. BTW I had replaced all the Switches last winter when I went thru this tractor. I don't believe that I could have connected the switch wrong, because the connectors only go one way. I bypassed the switch and stuff and the PTO runs that way. I have also tried another switch out of a 1200 I parted out earlier. Same story.
 
Bruce...that's no problem, just tell em it's a rare experimental FWD <font size="-2">front wheel drive</font> 102 that escaped the research grounds
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Brendan,
ROFLMAO, but the truth be told, I got the front Ags for better lateral traction when pushing snow around, but I'll let the locals think what they wish. Since I'll be using chains on the back anyway when I'm pushing snow around, I'll probably be better off with the turf tires. Now if I want to push some dirt or gravel around in the summer, or play tractor pull or Plow Day with my slightly hot rodded K241, then I'll want a set of Ags.
 
Bruce:
"Although the engine could probably go a few more seasons"...
Back around '95, I noticed the 129's all original (never been opened) engine was starting to smoke a little.. Our local L&G had one of the "Spring Special" crate engines that Kohler pushed to their dealers every year, the price was right and my logic ("If I put a new engine in, the 129 will last the rest of my life....") seemed pretty good. I'd checked the price of a rebuild and the price of the new one at that time wasn't all that much more than a thoroughly gone through rebuild, so I went ahead with it.. One of the guys I worked with had a 105 that was running out of steam and jumped at the chance to buy the old K301. He was pretty happy and said that even with a little smoke, the 12 horse far outran his old 10, but at the end of the year, he'd probably pull it and put rings in it. I ran into him a couple of years ago - the 12 horse is still running strong (uses a little oil between changes), and yup, you guessed it, he's never pulled it to rebuild...
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(Oh and I gave HIM the carb off the new one, as it had a fixed main jet)...
 
I finally found the culprit as to why my 1450 PTO wouldn't engage. After taking every thing apart and replacing switches and fuses found a loose wire connector that plugs into the fuse holder. Sure was a real booger to get my big hand in between the tank and the dash. After loosing a little skin, it finally found it's home.
Now that I got my mowing done, I guess I'll leave the deck on for a while... At least until I get my other tractor back in order, or the snow flies.
 
Hello all,

Do you guys use RTV sealant when replacing your cover plate gasket after changing the trans fluid or do you install the gasket dry?
167684.gif

Kenneth
 
Kenneth-
I always have installed those gaskets "dry" with good luck. Just make sure you check the rear-cover-plate for flatness and "adjust" with a 3-pound hammer if needed.
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Brad R.
I know it's to late, but the best/easiest way to get to those is by removing the tunnel cover since they are down low. Even taking off just the hood support helps a bunch to get to the that area.
 
Kendall,
The engine in the 125 paradoxically seems smoother than the one in the 129. The engine I put in the 129 does not have balance gears, I won't know if the one in the 125 does unless I pull it out and open it up. I can think of a couple of other possible explanations involving compression ratio or the fact that the 129 motor was overbored .030 over, but I have my doubts about either of those explanations
 
Brad R:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

But now I flip the switch and get nada, I took all the connections apart and reconnected every thing, but still nothing. Any suggestions?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Here is a partial schematic for the Elec PTO Circuit.
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From the Ign Sw, check the 10A Fuse, and the contacts A & B from the PTO Sw.
 
KENNETH - I wipe a REAL thin layer of either RTV or my new favorite gasket sealant on the rear cover gaskets and about anything else I work on that holds oil. Permatex make a gasket dressing called "HYLOMAR", a bright blue gasket dressing, not an RTV. Small smear on each side of the gasket and never had a leak anywhere.
 
Tom Bitterman:
Your need for a QL bezel resulted in this:
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167692.jpg

This 1250 is powered by a 16hp Tecumseh, so it can't get much more "incorrect", anyway. Also, I think the 129 bezel is stronger than the QL bezel.
Have a great week, everyone!
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Don T.: I took this pic for you -- good place to camp out IF the border wasn't there! Not off topic -- this 123 with hydraulic lift has me seriously thinking of selling another of my beloved 149's.
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