Archive through April 27, 2015

[rfuller]

Got the 149 out this weekend. Ran really good but all of a sudden it was running like it was out of gas and after pulling the choke out it would stay running but lacked a lot of power.

When it quit running. I could restart it about 1/2 hour later and it would run good again for about another 15-20 min and the same thing. Carb is getting plenty of gas and is clean.

This the case of the infamous exhaust valve sticking? If so, how do I remedy it?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rob, sounds like a failing condenser. When it gets hot it starts to fail. It could also be a failing coil but more likely the condenser. If it's getting gas then it's not as likely to be a plugged vent in the gas cap, but that would be worth checking as well.

Mike C., hmmm, I was not aware that the threaded portion of that changed size. I've never had to replace one.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Clark, first off, I'm going to post this schematic and voltage regulator diagram so we can all refer to them.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Clark, have you checked to see if the safety switch is still in place and working properly?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Clark, make sure the part is in place and properly depressing the safety switch. Here's a cutaway view that shows how it should be setup. I added an arrow that points to the part that depresses the safety switch when the clutch/brake pedal is pressed down.

 

[cmiracle]

Kraig, my 71 doesn't have a safety starting switch. From looking at the harness and the mounting locations, it hasn't in some time. The wire was instead directly routed from the solenoid to the S ignition terminal. Thats how I have it hooked up as now.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Clark, when you turn the key do you hear the solenoid click?

 

[cmiracle]

I do not, Kraig

 

[kmcconaughey]

Clark, check to make sure you have good ground connections. Chances are there is rust at one or more of the ground points. Use your volt meter to measure for 12V at the solenoid. Measure between the negative terminal at the battery and where the positive wire from the battery connects to the solenoid, then measure between the positive terminal on the battery and the ground connection at the solenoid. And measure between the ground connection at the solenoid and at the solenoid where the 12V wire connects from the battery. In each case you should have a 12V reading, or close to 12V depending on how well your battery is charged up. While you're at it you may as well measure the voltage directly at the battery terminals.

 

[cmiracle]

I'll do that Kraig, thanks!

 

[hmoyer]

How can I find out the hp of an engine. I am looking at a model 108, and the seller said it is a 14hp, but the info on the 108 said it is a 10 hp. The engine serial # is 5256564.

 

[wshytle]

When things start heating up fast or just failing due to heat this time of year the first thing I look for is the mouse nest. I have at least one every year. They really like the Kohler condos.

I thought about this after reading Robs post.

Just a little spring time thinking...

 

[cmiracle]

Holden, the K-series number would be easier to tell by. A 10hp would be a K-241 I think

 

[hmoyer]

Thanks Clark, will try to find out the series # to see what it is.
Unit looks rough, but he wants $600 for the 108, so I might try to bargain a little.
Holden

 

[dvogtvpe]

Holden ; a 10 hp engine has a flat oil pan. the 12 and 14 have a little sump on the bottom that you can see from either side, also if you take the air cleaner off you can look in the carb. just above the throttle plate it should say "30" if its a 14. its not guarantee that its a 14 , this stuff all fits on a 10 but unless someone cobbled it together its at least some type of indicator

 

[hydroharry]

Hey Marlin H - I see you asked what gauge steel is the frame on a cub Cadet. I thought we all knew the answer to that. It's HEAVY gauge steel

. Now I'd like to know the numerical gauge myself so maybe someone will tell us.

 

[dcalkins]

Harry the frame is .135 ,but w/o paint .125,and there is also a strip of matal that goes next to the engine ,on both sides brings it uo to .280 .i just wanted to go buy my tiller gear box again and kick it one more time before dinner .never rebuild one unless you have lots of cash.

 

[hydroharry]

Dave C - thanks for the come back on the frame thickness. And since most of it is a C-channel that is a HEAVY gauge.
Now, about your tiller gear box. So everyone knows, it's not the right angle gearbox your rebuilding, it's the main tiller gearbox with the chains, gears, pulleys, bearings and shafts. It's quite an undertaking and I'm amazed at what you're doing to it.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Luther H. And JIm P. A BIG THANK YOU!!! I'll do those modifications. Although I don't need another mower tractor it would be nice to mow again with a gear drive every now and then.

David C. THANK YOU for the chassis thickness. If time and $$$ allow I hope to make a CAT O for the 108. You have great patience taking on rebuilding a tiller and I admire you for that.

Harry B. That is correct about the frames being heavy gauge steel. Nice and rugged.

Everyone ... Be SAFE and catch y'all later.

 

[jamarks]

Has anyone used Iron Guard paint on their cub cadets??