J
jott
Guest
The serial number of the CCO was 8884 which comes up as july of 1964... this cant be right. The number is 8884. any help appriciated
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through April 26, 2010
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
CALVIN - hauling L&G tractors was just discussed at another forum I read and sometimes post at.
Your 44" deck will not fit between the wheel tubs in your pickup box. A "Half Ton" pickup should have load capacity to carry the weight of a 1450 & 44" deck but physical room kinda depends on the pickup. I've hauled CC's in a short box pickup many times, 6-3/4 ft long bed. I now have a 8 ft bed truck but there's a LOT of pickups with shorter beds now days. You do not want the rearward end of the tractor sitting on the pickup's tailgate. You want the tailgate closed & latched. Not sure about "Imported 1/2 ton" trucks but I suspect their boxes are smaller than a Chevy, Ford, or Dodge.
I'd recommend putting a 4" x 4" block at the front of the pickup box to keep from running the grill of the CC through the back window of the cab. If you load with the CC facing backwards, still not a bad idea to keep the fenders from hitting the front of the box/back of the cab.
Far as loading with ramps. I've had enough close calls loading & unloading that NO WAY do I recommend loading with any kind of ramp. Backing up to a dirt bank is MANY times safer. Any time you get a CC off the ground your risk of injury from an accident increases greatly. Even is it's only 6-8 inches!
If dirt banks are not available, rent, beg, or borrow a trailer to haul your CC. And don't forget to SECURELY chain/strap/chain down the tractor to the trailer. The tractor should be tied to the trailer securely enough that the tractor stays in the trailer even if the trailer is upside-down. A lot of the pictures I see of tractors in trailers here are NOT securely tied down.
KRAIG can post the spec's for 1450's, but I'd guess 800# to 900# total for tractor & deck, maybe a bit more if the tractor had other options, weights, or fluid.
Your 44" deck will not fit between the wheel tubs in your pickup box. A "Half Ton" pickup should have load capacity to carry the weight of a 1450 & 44" deck but physical room kinda depends on the pickup. I've hauled CC's in a short box pickup many times, 6-3/4 ft long bed. I now have a 8 ft bed truck but there's a LOT of pickups with shorter beds now days. You do not want the rearward end of the tractor sitting on the pickup's tailgate. You want the tailgate closed & latched. Not sure about "Imported 1/2 ton" trucks but I suspect their boxes are smaller than a Chevy, Ford, or Dodge.
I'd recommend putting a 4" x 4" block at the front of the pickup box to keep from running the grill of the CC through the back window of the cab. If you load with the CC facing backwards, still not a bad idea to keep the fenders from hitting the front of the box/back of the cab.
Far as loading with ramps. I've had enough close calls loading & unloading that NO WAY do I recommend loading with any kind of ramp. Backing up to a dirt bank is MANY times safer. Any time you get a CC off the ground your risk of injury from an accident increases greatly. Even is it's only 6-8 inches!
If dirt banks are not available, rent, beg, or borrow a trailer to haul your CC. And don't forget to SECURELY chain/strap/chain down the tractor to the trailer. The tractor should be tied to the trailer securely enough that the tractor stays in the trailer even if the trailer is upside-down. A lot of the pictures I see of tractors in trailers here are NOT securely tied down.
KRAIG can post the spec's for 1450's, but I'd guess 800# to 900# total for tractor & deck, maybe a bit more if the tractor had other options, weights, or fluid.
Josh, May 1961.
J
jott
Guest
thanks Kraig. So its pretty early in the running then...
Kraig, Ken, and all that responded-
Thanks for the input. I will admit I didn't go to the FAQs at first but it confirmed what I thought. Now I'm worried about the pin possibly being half sheared or the pads being in need of replacement. Either one means a few hours more down time. I've got a spring for the left side so as soon as it dries I'm going with it. This is my nephews tractor and it's time he learned to turn some wrenches. I haven't had time to work on the 149 for a week now because of his stuff. He is just getting into the "sickness" of yellow fever and now has three: a 128 and two 1250s.
Thanks again to all that responded....this forum is a lifesaver.
Oh Ken, the rod your speaking of (I think) isn't adjustable, it's solid so the pad thing might be the issue. Hope not....
Thanks for the input. I will admit I didn't go to the FAQs at first but it confirmed what I thought. Now I'm worried about the pin possibly being half sheared or the pads being in need of replacement. Either one means a few hours more down time. I've got a spring for the left side so as soon as it dries I'm going with it. This is my nephews tractor and it's time he learned to turn some wrenches. I haven't had time to work on the 149 for a week now because of his stuff. He is just getting into the "sickness" of yellow fever and now has three: a 128 and two 1250s.
Thanks again to all that responded....this forum is a lifesaver.
Oh Ken, the rod your speaking of (I think) isn't adjustable, it's solid so the pad thing might be the issue. Hope not....
One more quick question: Is the 5/8" ball bearing that goes in the rear coupler of a 1250 necessary? If I put the darn thing in there the driveshaft only goes into that $21 ball bushing about 3/16". It also puts a strain on the flex coupler. Am I doing something wrong yet again? If it helps, the tractor was produced in June, 1977.
Thanks to anyone....Wayne (This 1250 is messing with my mind)
Thanks to anyone....Wayne (This 1250 is messing with my mind)
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne-
Is the driveshaft original, or did you make a new one? The driveshaft should have an indentation in the center so it centers. If the bearing ball is used, those expensive spherical ball bushings should last much longer.
Is the driveshaft original, or did you make a new one? The driveshaft should have an indentation in the center so it centers. If the bearing ball is used, those expensive spherical ball bushings should last much longer.
Guys all this talk of ramps and trailers I thought i would show the ramps that I have. I like them because of the shape, when loading a lawn tractor the deck does not get caught up when you drive the tractor on the trailer.
Matt-
No I didn't make this shaft. I didn't notice an indentation either. The side at the very tip of that end of the shaft had worn away a little from the last bearing being worn out. It still looked useable so I just used it thinking the bad bearing was the reason. It still measured 5/8" except for maybe the last 1/8".
So you're saying the ball bearing is defintely necessary? It seems to me it would fit nicely without it. I anticipate problems now getting the engine mounting bolts started. Things are real tight (lengthwise) with the ball bearing.
Thanks...Wayne
No I didn't make this shaft. I didn't notice an indentation either. The side at the very tip of that end of the shaft had worn away a little from the last bearing being worn out. It still looked useable so I just used it thinking the bad bearing was the reason. It still measured 5/8" except for maybe the last 1/8".
So you're saying the ball bearing is defintely necessary? It seems to me it would fit nicely without it. I anticipate problems now getting the engine mounting bolts started. Things are real tight (lengthwise) with the ball bearing.
Thanks...Wayne
Matt-
Here's the end of the shaft. It doesn't look to have any indentation. If I were to remove about 1/8" from the end and put a small indentation would that cause more problems? It seems I have enough the way it was straining the flex coupler and it would allow the engine bolts to lineup/start easier.
What's your idea here? The po might have had a shaft made. I found several things he "forgot" to mention after getting it home.
Thanks
Here's the end of the shaft. It doesn't look to have any indentation. If I were to remove about 1/8" from the end and put a small indentation would that cause more problems? It seems I have enough the way it was straining the flex coupler and it would allow the engine bolts to lineup/start easier.
What's your idea here? The po might have had a shaft made. I found several things he "forgot" to mention after getting it home.
Thanks
Anyway to stop cracking in AG type tires?
(One more for the road
)
I know I've asked a lot of questions today and appreciate the responses! I'll ask one more for the evening. The used 1450 I just bought came with AG type rear tires. It is a fairly well used tractor and the tires have seen their share of work too. They are starting to crack in certain places. I'm wondering if there is anything that can be done/applied to slow this process down or stop it? I imagine that it is just a matter of time as nature does its thing - but I'd like to at least slow the process down as much as possible.
Thanks,
-Calvin
(One more for the road
I know I've asked a lot of questions today and appreciate the responses! I'll ask one more for the evening. The used 1450 I just bought came with AG type rear tires. It is a fairly well used tractor and the tires have seen their share of work too. They are starting to crack in certain places. I'm wondering if there is anything that can be done/applied to slow this process down or stop it? I imagine that it is just a matter of time as nature does its thing - but I'd like to at least slow the process down as much as possible.
Thanks,
-Calvin
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Calvin-
Tire polish, or anything else made for rubber that has some sort of UV protection in it.
Wayne-
I'd chuck it up in a lathe and put a 3/16" deep or so divot in the end with a drill bit. Check to make sure the ball contacts the cone-shaped hole surface and not the edge, if that makes sense. If it touches the egde instead, it's not deep enough. I wouldn't remove any material from the end other than truing it up in the lathe before adding the divot in the center.
Tire polish, or anything else made for rubber that has some sort of UV protection in it.
Wayne-
I'd chuck it up in a lathe and put a 3/16" deep or so divot in the end with a drill bit. Check to make sure the ball contacts the cone-shaped hole surface and not the edge, if that makes sense. If it touches the egde instead, it's not deep enough. I wouldn't remove any material from the end other than truing it up in the lathe before adding the divot in the center.
Steve B., are referring to in our Cubs or in our road vehicles? I assume you mean in road vehicles. Every so often I'll dump a can of Sea Foam in my vehicles. No set schedule, perhaps ever six months or so.
