Archive through April 19, 2014

[bellwood]

Just scored two H10C's at my local Ace Hardware... The guy had to dig in the back for them as "they dont sell"...

Now I just need to figure out why the rod for the points is not moving and how to get the sediment bowl filter out without breaking it =)

 

[bjamison]

Brian E - on my 126 I tossed the sediment bowl and replaced it with a 90 deg shutoff valve from Napa and put an inline fuel filter just down stream of it. Works great!

Points rod should move. Are your points against it pushing it back into the engine?

 

[bellwood]

So I've got some good news and yet another question (hooray!)

When I was resetting the point gap (it wasnt off that much, .30 vs .20) it looked like the rod was a little gummed up so I gave her some wiggle and she freed up.

Figuring I've got good points, the correct plug and a freshly drained tank I decided to give it a go with some fresh gas... Filled it up, opened the fuel shut off and nothing... The sediment bowl did not fill up...

So I rocked the tractor back and force and slowly but surely each time I did that, some fuel went into the bowl and it eventually was full and what do you know, after some choking and purging the old gas, she started up...

In fact she ran amazingly well... I got through all the gears and even got the mower deck going

Thats where the old times came back... Once I engaged the deck the motor sounded noticeably weaker... It eventually conked out, even after disengaging the deck...

Tried to restart it... Nada... Gave it choke and it sounded like it wanted to turn over but nothing...

I checked the sediment bowl and its slightly under level...

My question, could this old girl just be starved for fuel?

Could there be something between the tank and the bowl preventing fuel and why it would only fill the bowl when rocked?

I looked in the tank and it appears to be baffled such that I can't see into the actual chamber that the bowl connects to...

I'm wondering if I need to completely remove the bowl from the tank and flush the tank somehow (or take the tank off too to flush it)

I'm no engine guy but this to me seems like the most likely cause

Thanks all for putting up with me =)

 

[dtanner]

Brian Ellwood
You probably have a flake of rust that covers over the hole for the gas to flow. I think you should take the tank off and get it soaked to remove the rust.

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - yes it could well be that you have crud in your gas tank that's getting partially thru and blocking your sediment bowl so the fuel isn't getting to the carb. I suggest removing your gas tank and checking for crud. If you can remove with the gas still in it you could drain the gas into a container and watch it and then look for crud in the gas. If you don't see any then the crud is likely in the fuel line or sediment bowl assembly itself. Hopefully you can get the sediment bowl off this time and look at the screen next to the gasket. Clean it thoroughly and clean the fuel lines.

You could also have a problem with the carb itself. Your needle valve could be sticking in a closed position not allowing the fuel to flow into the carb bowl. But lets take this one step at a time before you go tearing into the carb.

 

[bellwood]

Thanks for the suggestions guys...

After it cooled down, I did a partial drain on the fuel system... I remove the nut on supply side of the carb and let it run through a bit... There was some visible sediment stirring in the bowl...

I should mention that when the fuel line is removed from the carb and I open the fuel valve, it runs through without issue

I was able to get the bowl off previously, I just couldn't figure out how to get the screen out... I presume its held in by the gasket, but, the gasket I have is looking a little iffy so I didnt want to shred it with no replacement in hand...

I should also mention that I pulled the plug and it was bone dry which my father in law said is usually a good indicator of it being starved for fuel (in this type of situation)

So... after letting the fuel run through for about 2 minutes, she started right up, within 5 seconds of turning the key... It's NEVER started that nicely in the past 10+ years I've known it...

I let it idle for a good five minutes... It idles beautifully...

I took it out for a few laps around the house and we did really good for about 5 minutes...

Then the tone of the engine changed and you could tell there was a drop in power... About 30-45 seconds later she puttered out...

The best part of the whole 10 minutes was having my 4 year old son working with me and then riding along in the utility box on the back

So, where to go from here?

The inside of the tank looks spotless...

I guess I need to get my hands on a new screen and gasket so I can at least check that off my list...

Whats the best way to clean the fuel line between the bowl and carb, just soak it in alcohol or...?

As for the carb... While I'm getting the new screen and gasket, should I also get the carb rebuild kit from cubcadet:

http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cubcadet/kh-25-757-01

Would this kit be enough to address the needle valve?

Thanks folks, I truly appreciate the input and help =)

 

[dcmay]

I still don't know where to connect the wire coming from the lower fuse.When I got the 1200 that wire was connected to the negative side of the ammeter.
Thanks for any help.
Dan

 

[dcmay]

Charlie,
I'll have to try some of those AutoLite plugs.I have tinkered with these cub cadets since 1979 and I've never seen anything but Champion H10s in them.Maybe the A/Ls are easier to find.I think the H10s have a new #.Not sure.
Dan

 

[dtanner]

Brian Ellwood

Go to the parts store and buy a can of spray carb cleaner and blow that thought the carb after you have taken it off the tractor. check out the fuel bowl for dirt and spray and blow out the carb with air. I hate the sediment bowls because they do let crud through that will mess up the Crab so I add another filter to all my cubs. saved me cleaning carbs so often .

 

[mschutz]

I think you need to take the tank and carb off and clean them up real good. Buy a carb rebuild kit and go through the carb.

 

[dcmay]

I have another problem and this one is with a 782.I have power to the coil but nothing at the points.Is that telling me I have a bad coil?
Thanks again for any help.
Dan

 

[tcbusch]

Need some assistance on an o-ring.

I have the external hydraulic lift on the 126. The piston rod o-ring leaks and I am going to buy another o-ring. I took a look at the parts look up to see what size to buy and noticed the o-ring is 5/8 x .813 x 3/32 item 25 below. However the rod is 1/2".

Do I have the wrong piston? Is this a typo in the look up? Or am I suppose to cram the o-ring into the guide?

 

[wcompton]

Terry-
I just thought the same thing (I'm rebuilding one right now too). But when installed into the cylinder, everything seems fine.

 

[dcmay]

Harry,
It's a 1200 with headlights.
Thanks,
Dan

 

[digger]

Terry B.
I think you'll find that the O-ring is 5/8's or so O.D.
Any Case/IH or new Holland dealer can get it for ya.
Case or NH part# 350429R1

Inside Diameter: 17.12 mm,0.674 in
Outside Diameter: 22.35 mm,0.88 in
Width: 2.62 mm,0.103 in

 

[jharvey]

Dan M
If on your 782 there is 12v on coil + but not coil- then the points may be closed or the wire going to the points could be shorted to ground. Lift that wire then recheck for 12v at coil- If there then switch to resistance checks by connecting to that wire and ground. Open and close the points and verify infinite ohms points open and zero ohms points closed.
On the light wiring put that fuse wire back on ammeter-. You should be able to reference the 149 wiring diagram for your 1200 lights.

 

[hydroharry]

Daniel - on the 1200 wiring, if the lower fuse you are referring to has one wire to the light switch then the other wire does go to the negative side of the amp gauge.

This also means the upper fuse is the one protecting the PTO. It should have a wire from the ignition switch to the PTO switch.

 

[wcompton]

Terry-
I was incorrect, the parts catalog is not correct. I had to go back to the workbench and find all of the O-rings. On the left is the 1/2" ID seal, measures about 11/16" on the OD. To the right is the "correct" seal per the catalog.

 

[wcompton]

Here is the smaller seal installed.

 

[bcarl]

Haven't posted for awhile. I've always wanted a tiller, but just couldn't find one for a price I could afford. Last fall I met a guy that had a #1 tiller that he was going to scrap. It was left to him by his uncle and he had no use for it. I offered him $150 and I took it home with me.

Yesterday I finally got around to mounting it on the 147. It has the two extensions and the belt guard as well. I took the extensions off because I was working some heavy clay soil.

Here are some pictures my wife Sharon took of me working up our riding ring for the horses.