-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through April 19, 2014
- Thread starter bellwood
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
bellwood
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2007
- Messages
- 141
- displayname
- Brian Ellwood
Parts are inbound!
Fuel bowl: KH-210468, KH-210479
Carb rebuild: KH-25-757-01, KH-271030
Belt: IH-401960-R1
Hopefully a good carb rebuild and fuel bowl clean out will get my 124 back into service...
Page 1-21 and 1-22 of the 1x2-3 Service manual look pretty self explanatory... Any recommendations for working on the carb beyond that?
Fuel bowl: KH-210468, KH-210479
Carb rebuild: KH-25-757-01, KH-271030
Belt: IH-401960-R1
Hopefully a good carb rebuild and fuel bowl clean out will get my 124 back into service...
Page 1-21 and 1-22 of the 1x2-3 Service manual look pretty self explanatory... Any recommendations for working on the carb beyond that?
Wyatt,
How do those 1/2" seals hold up? Do they leak? I got a 1/2" seal from NAPA and its leaky. Maybe the idea is to cram the bigger seal into the smaller race?
Also, have you ever removed the piston rod from the piston?
How do those 1/2" seals hold up? Do they leak? I got a 1/2" seal from NAPA and its leaky. Maybe the idea is to cram the bigger seal into the smaller race?
Also, have you ever removed the piston rod from the piston?
Terry- it seems fine so far. I pressurized the return side of the cylinder with 150psi of shop air and sprayed soapy water around the seal and got no bubbles or leak down after 5mins.
I never saw the need to screw the piston off of the rod, though the rod could have stood to be polished up better than I did. I did replace the piston o-ring, but kept the original wipers. The only wipers I could find were too thin for the wider groove on the piston, and I didn't want to chance rolling the wipers by doubling them up.
I never saw the need to screw the piston off of the rod, though the rod could have stood to be polished up better than I did. I did replace the piston o-ring, but kept the original wipers. The only wipers I could find were too thin for the wider groove on the piston, and I didn't want to chance rolling the wipers by doubling them up.
Brian Ellwood,
Be sure the shut-off valve on the sediment bowl is fully open - turn it counter-clockwise until it stops turning. You can throttle the fuel supply causing the engine to run lean if these valves are not open to the stop.
Be sure the shut-off valve on the sediment bowl is fully open - turn it counter-clockwise until it stops turning. You can throttle the fuel supply causing the engine to run lean if these valves are not open to the stop.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Brian E - looks like you ordered a needle and seat kit with gaskets, and a new fuel bowl. Pretty straight forward replacing these items. The Kohler kit usually comes with direction. You do need a correct size socket to fit the seat for removal and installation. I believe you'll find it has to be a 1/4 drive. I mentioned awhile back the one I use is a Craftsman deep well (don't recall exact size) 1/4" drive that "just fits" inside the edge of the bowl mount.
Before you install all this I would recommend a good soaking of the carb in carb cleaner, and then blow out all the fine passages with compressed air - or if you can't get it into the fine holes then use the straw tube on the spray carb cleaner.
All this assumes your carb looks decent and not all corroded when you dis-assemble it.
Bruce C - your 147 and new to you No. 1 Tiller look to be doing a really fine job. In fact, I suspect your wife may be wanting to hire you out to do tillin' for others.
Before you install all this I would recommend a good soaking of the carb in carb cleaner, and then blow out all the fine passages with compressed air - or if you can't get it into the fine holes then use the straw tube on the spray carb cleaner.
All this assumes your carb looks decent and not all corroded when you dis-assemble it.
Bruce C - your 147 and new to you No. 1 Tiller look to be doing a really fine job. In fact, I suspect your wife may be wanting to hire you out to do tillin' for others.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Brian E - carb rebuild is easy. I soaked mine in Chem-Dip, came out looking new.
Hope everyone is having a great Easter.
The upgrades to the 126 continue. Put tubes in the two front tires - pain in the buttox! But got'er done. Went much easier after I bought a tire changer from Harbor Freight. Actually bought two of them, one for the front tire size and one that will handle the rear tire size.
Hope everyone is having a great Easter.
The upgrades to the 126 continue. Put tubes in the two front tires - pain in the buttox! But got'er done. Went much easier after I bought a tire changer from Harbor Freight. Actually bought two of them, one for the front tire size and one that will handle the rear tire size.
