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Archive through April 18, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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kweaver

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2000
Messages
5,520
displayname
KENtuckyKEN
Don - You want something like this ?

I had to download the 450 pdf file to see what you were crying about. That's a lot of work for a sunny Sunday !
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Kendall;
Got another Wal-Mart on the north side of town.
If you need help,just give me a ring.(334)596-8986.Those are your only options for tire service on Sunday.

David C. in Enterprise has the market cornered on Cubs down here!

Have a safe trip home!
Bobby B.
 
MATT - Eveyone wants to build a foot control hydro. CAT used to build full hydrostatic drive fork lifts, foundry I used to work at had about a dozen of them. They were great to run, some people got really good with them. BUT it took a good long while to get used to running them from other brands. Once you were used to them they would do things other lift trucks couldn't do. Normal operator mode was gas pedal flat on the floorboard, steering wheel in left hand, right hand on fork controls.

Why not take a page from BOBCAT skid steer's? Leave the hydro alone and put on foot pedal loader controls? NOBODY ever uses the clutch/brake pedal on a hydro anyhow. Bucket on left, boom on right maybe? I've seen posts on a couple CC forums where dozens of people want foot controls, and I think TWO have been made to my knowledge. It appears to be more difficult than most anticipate.
 
KENtuckyKEN
You is one smart cookie! yep that is what I was looking for. .Thanks
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Dennis - You're not thinking straight today.
I've ran Bobcats and yes the foot controls are trick but you had to steer with your hands. That equals 4 controls , 4 limbs in action ... how ya hold/tip yer Cool Tool ????
 
Dennis Frisk
I wish someone came up with a good working foot control for a 129. I would buy it in a second. My loader is not the easiest to use with only two hands.lol
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I sold the only good foot control tractor I had with a 16 K 13 fin. I should have kept it.
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Dennis-

Yeah, the clutch/brake is useless on a hydro...so it'll probably come off and get replaced with a foot control for the hydro. I may add a small pedal on the right side to actuate the brake so I've got a parking brake.

I realize a lot of haven't made them, but I think it's because a lot of people don't know what they're doing. I've seen it done about 4 times on the various CC forums. There seem to be good and bad things about all of them, from looks to safety. I've had the idea in my head for awhile, I just haven't had the time (or a reason) to make it. Hopefully I'll be able to find the time now that I've got a reason to make one
clappy.gif


I know I'm gonna need some springs and a damper. I might have to make a damper since I can't seem to find an affordable one. Plus, I don't know how much damping it'll need.
 
Hi, I have found a great little 102 that is in good running condition. I would like to know if the blades are sharp, belts, bearing and engine is in good shape if the tractor would have adequate power to cut grass with a 48" deck. I dont let my grass get to big between cutting. My long term plans for the tractor is a restored occasional puller and part time grass cutter. Any and all information is appreciated.
 
Trying to find the value of a 982 Cub Cadet. Front hyd, rear pto, catagory 0 three point. 200 hrs on long block. Good shape. Thanks
 
Can you tell on a kohler 12hp k301 engine if it has compression if you turn it by hand? I had heard these engines had a compression release. wouldn't this make it hard to determine if engine had compression by spinning it by hand?
 
Tim B.,
A 100 on utube did a "full pull" with a big sled. Your grass should be a "piece of cake" with a 102. I like the quote on your profile too.
 
Doug P.,
You might want to check out the forum posting rules. I think your post may get poofed. The best and probably only answer to your question is: what is it worth to you? There's probably no definite answer for this question.
 
Thanks for the information, I read the forum rules. What was in my post that would cause it to get deleted? I haven't used this much so where should you post your questions?
 
Matt, I saw your dad at the auction today. Neither of us bought the completely restored 149 with 50" deck for $1175. It even had 26 - 12 x 12 turfs on it that hit the deck when you raised it up. They also had a restored 100 with creeper, hydraulic lift, front blade, deck, rear lift, rear ag tires, Brinly adapter, and Brinly plow that I think they finally got $1000 for. They had a lot of restored units like a 124, 128, 124, 122, and another 100 that went in the $600-$1100 range. I should have stayed to see what the 1450 and 1650 with dual hydraulics brought but wanted to get home and get some work done.
 
Tim B your post is fine, Marty was refering to Doug P post on value of a cub
 
Hi there -

I have attached a picture of my "situation" to this post.
One of the c shaped items (not sure of name) have snapped off, thereby keeping me stuck in third.

I assume I should find the piece which broke off - I also assume that its in the bottom of the gearbox somewhere....

So;

How do I replace this item & where do I get it?

What type of lubricant should be used in this area...?

Thanks!

-John

188709.jpg
 
ok guys

i am new to these tractors and trying to figure out what i am doing

i am trying to see what is wrong with my cub 100 the starter generator starts the tractor but does not charge the battery

i have found the information on trouble shooting the generator

when i first started working on it the multimeter would show 2 volts on the A terminal i tried gounding the f terminal and no change

removed the wires from both the A and the F terminal put the wires back on and now the multimeter "jumps" showing a voltage from 6to 10 to 15 to 18 volts it does this very quick never settles down. that reading is on both the battery and the A teminal
what does this mean/???

thanks
 
John Koza, What you have is a Shift fork that is missing a tab,You might find a shift fork by placing an add in the wanted section of the forum. The repair requires that the transmission be removed from the tractor completely, the front housing removed,and the detent shaft moved forward to remove the shift fork, by the way the missing piece is laying in the bottom of the tranny, Hytran is the preferred oil,
 
Mick -

Thanks for your response. I found a shift fork for sale online, and also found an electronic copy of the shop service manual.

Any idea what might have caused this...? Was I just too rough?
 

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